adamzan

It is like right under the rear most window on the drivers side. It hardly ever goes bad, but anything is possible. I would also suspect bad connections (corrosion).

I had this issue 10 years ago with my 95 wd21. It was only 12 years old then. There were tons of them around still, but no stock. Maybe it's because they're not like crappy domestics and don't need to have tons of parts replaced

Maybe I missed it but was the timing belt ever done? O2 sensors okay? I know sometimes they can throw no codes but cause issues.

When all said and done it is basically finger tight, when i remove the nut usually i can just turn the tool by hand. But seating it is critical, especially if they're new bearings.

I'm sure it will fire up. My engine that sat in a warehouse fired up after about 12 revolutions. It ticked for a few minutes while the lifters primed but now it is silent.

Yep, the pipe is the same. The ECU is different. Canada and CA models are similar, I believe. The only difference with the cats, etc. is that it would have the CARB compliant stamp on it most likely. I'm not an expert by any means, just what I have learned over the years. Both my 94 and 95 canadian models have the egr temp sensor, but only the 95 has the BPT for the egr valve.

Not that hard at all. Cracking the big nut free can be a pain. But other than that it is pretty simple, un bolt and bolt on process.

I have no bump stops and have never had issues with the CV's. Ever. This is with 3" of suspension lift and 33" tires. Just don't go bouncing off rocks at full throttle and you'll be fine.

I doubt it. It's probably caked in there really bad if that is the issue. And, correct me on this if I'm wrong, but I don't believe oil flows through there, only vapor, so it's the leftover sludge crap that causes the clogging in the first place.

The easiest way, no messing with the distributor, taking out plugs and using sticks to measure, is to take the upper cover off, leave the balancer on. Rotate it till the top marks line up, and the first mark on the balancer lines up with the pointer arrow. Take it all off from there. Then you'll see that the crank gear mark is in the correct spot. Remove old belt, take new belt with marks, throw on making sure marks on belt line up with marks on cam/crank gears. Count 40 teeth between cams and 43 between drivers side cam and crank if you're unsure. Tighten, and put back together. Drive truck without worry. If the seals are not leaking. Don't touch them.

Do you have a way to see the live data? I have a bluetooth obd2 connector, hooked up to my old android phone running torque pro. I used this on my Xterra to troubleshoot bad o2 sensors that weren't throwing codes, but causing it to run weird/have poor gas mileage.

Yeah, aftermarket PCV's suck. I replaced the one on my SC xterra, and it started blowing blue smoke at startup, put the old factory one back in, problem gone. The one on the wd21 is pretty stout. I would clean it with brake cleaner and if it still rattles I would just re use it. Level9 has it right. Do what he says and you'll have no issues. I have done this job a couple times now on a pathfinder and an Xterra (same engine style), goes fine. Finagling the hoses on the back of the intake is always a good time though. Lol.

You don't need any RTV to do this job. Clean all surfaces and use the gaskets only.

My parents have a 2012 Xterra with the 4.0 and it does the same thing. Revs to about 1500 or more then settles down. So dumb because that is probably terrible for the motor when it is -30 outside.

I have the bandit 4x4 bushings in my idler. They work well. But you need to use an oem nissan idler, an aftermarket one, even if it looks the same, will not fit. Okay, I should have shut up about grassroots, looks like they're not around anymore. Check your PM's Yeah they are expensive, but after learning the hard way about cheap @!*%, I'm only buying it once from now on. Yes you can swap the zerks, I had done that on my oem upper ball joints and tie rods. I'm pretty sure the dealer used to remove those and grease them during service, way back when, lol.

If you wheel it at all, no brand of centerlink will hold up. That being said, it will last a lot longer without a lift. Moog parts at one time were good, but now I find are trash. To be honest I've been buying AC Delco parts as of late. The quality is way better. If you can, try and find the "Sankei 555" brand of steering parts. They're pretty much OEM. Don't replace parts that don't need it. On my 94, which is now approaching 270,000 miles, I have only changed the TREs once. The lower ball joints are not hard, but annoying to do. Make sure you get greaseable ones for those. They will last a lot longer. The cheap parts store ones lasted me a year tops. Uppers, well I replace them yearly due to the suspension lift forcing them to the end of their travel so I just got whatever lifetime warranty ones I could find locally. I find that the CL when worn will take out the idler quickly. With my lifted truck, the CL and Idler would be slightly loose even after a couple days of daily driving to work. I upgraded to the grassroots one and now I have not had an issue.

Injectors? Pull one plug wire at a time to isolate to one cylinder.

Lot's of car work today. New rear flex lines and a caliper on the 94. Swapped out the rubber brake lines to stainless extended ones on my friend's 2015 xterra. And then did o2 sensors on another friend's mazda 3.

What plugs did you use? I only use the ngk V power copper plugs. There is no difference at all with the other fancy ones and autolite/bosch are garbage. My friend's pathy had a gap of .080" and it still ran very well lol. This just proves that there is no need for BS msd ignition crap on these vehicles.

I had a similar feeling, except mine, the bracket to which the UCA bolts to, tore away from the frame. Once it was repaired, it was like a new truck!

Funny enough, I replaced my tank with an aftermarket one, and it didn't have that little area for the pump to sit in...

Helicoil or timesert is your best option. Some people have tapped it to some non metric thread size but that just makes it a PITA for anyone to work on in the future. My old pathy had a helicoil on one size, held up until I sold it, and it was lifted with 33" tires.

Personally I would go with the good runner with lower mileage, and fix the bodywork.

That is sweet. There is a part # on here somewhere but they are impossible to find for some reason...Looks like "Send 1" is drum brake type and "send 2" is disk. Gonna order a set of disk ones.

I use the fan clutch because on the trail I have seen people's fan controllers fail a few times. Leaving them to either overheat or have to wire it to be always on till they get home...My A/C works just fine in traffic...