adamzan

It is fine to use ATF in the tcase. It used to be gear oil but at some point along the years they switched it. No idea why. The cases are the same. Most new vehicles use ATF in their transfer cases. I have always run ATF in mine for thousands of miles (like 200k) and no issues at all. There are no syncros in the tcase so you're probably fine with the GL5.

At least the o2 is easy to reach. Try doing the drivers side primary one on an Xterra. What a bitch.

Check to make sure your tailpipe is still connected to the muffler. If it is separated it will for sure cause fumes in the cab.

Not sure about the clunk when off, I remember my dads r50 doing that, and he had it pretty much since new. The steering rack bushings are a problem on that side since the oil from the filter spills on them and over time destroys the bushing. I would replace those anyway. You may notice a little tighter steering as the rack won't shift around.

Does yours still have the original fusible links at the battery? They are little sections of wire with connectors on each end. They are known to cause these kinds of issues and would explain why playing with the positive terminal "resets" things. Next time it dies try playing with those.

Nevermind https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=6570

Where can you find the pathy spicer version? I know they are 1310 but I can only see outside lock ring versions.

The bosch icon ones are the best. Yeah they're pricey but they've been on my truck for over 2 years and still work great. Longest lasting wiper I've ever had. I need a &^%*ing locker, and to put in my 4.9 xterra gears. Maybe over the winter.

Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor and firing it up. It's the yellow connector, to the left of the distributor.

When you think your rig is "done" you find something else. Picked up a set of sliders from an Xterra part out this week.

Most newer mechanics won't be able to figure out these trucks, since they are only obd1. Not to fault them but they are just simply not used to it. 99% of the time these issues are sensor related, or more rarely, the distributor. The cat would have gotten hot due to a rich running condition or a misfire that went unnoticed. They are 20+ years old, so the sensors are getting tired, wiring gets brittle, corroded, etc. Cleaning up the grounds, and other connections helps. The MAF wiring at the connector is known to cause issues but if moving it doesn't cause it to change then it is probably fine.

He said in the first post they removed the cat.

Take off the cap/rotor and the cover under that and see if there is any brown dust. Or if you can source a used one for cheap, try swapping it. Also, check all sensors especially the coolant temp sensor, if it thinks the truck is in the arctic it will flood it with fuel. Possibly, but I doubt it. Mine ran fine on 2 year old fuel, yes it isn't a good idea but I didn't have time to drain it properly. Couldn't hurt to put fresh gas in though.

I had to make new holes in it because the bolts didn't line up and it is a little pinched as it is larger, but it works fine. Having 2 boots makes a big difference in the sound.

It is so bad man. I don't even drive my pathy in the winter anymore. fskc that @!*%. I'll drive something else so I don't have to break out the torches every time I work on my wheeler.

For me it felt like you were driving over rumble strips. I see you're in Arizona. Up here we have rust issues which makes it even more exciting!

I had my old pathy's driveshaft "fixed" at a shop and regretted it. Of course you should try and find someone good, in my case, the truck drove worse than it did before. I'm pretty sure they didn't balance it properly or install the u joints correctly.

As long as you can tighten it down to the proper torque, it won't affect anything. Mine were the same. I think they fit a few different vehicles so they just make one kit for all of them.

My easy fix was to get a used driveshaft. I meant to just use it as a temp fix but the truck drove perfect after, so I left it on there, lol. Now the old one is still sitting in the garage...

Could be a bad distributor. It will usually run well cold until the bearings warm up.

Since you are in Canada, I will tell you, Canadian tire or partsource will have what you need. Shouldn't cost more than 20-30 dollars with fluid.

Some come with zerks in the end cap, so it shouldn't be an issue. The ones I had installed by a shop were loose within a few days worth of driving. Then again it didn't help they fskced up balancing the drive shaft as well.

Hard 1-2 shift is normal on these. As long as it isn't slipping between shifts (would feel like it is sliding into gear) it is fine. May want to get the fluid changed though. It is usually worse when cold.

I find the ride is actually better, but then again I'm pretty sure the t-bars are softer and there is no tension rod bull@!*% to deal with. The square headlight ones are 170hp while the round have 180hp, with the SC have 220hp.

I installed the same brand of u-joints and they did not last very long. This was a few years ago. I had much better success with the precision u-joints. Same bull@!*% issues with the channels. I eventually just got a used driveshaft, felt the same hesitation as you call it, on what looked like the original nissan joints. Decided to leave well enough alone. I think the spare u-joint is a jeep people thing. I have never damaged one in almost a decade of wheeling. I have seen people break driveshafts though!