adamzan

My 94SE has 439,000kms on it...

You don't need to take the oil pump off. Just replace the crank seal and be on your way. It is a lot of labour to remove the oil pump. Like, you may as well pull the motor out of the truck a lot of labour...

X2 You should get greaseable aftermarket ones or get them from Nissan.

It is 15 ft-lbs. The waterpump is aluminum but there are no threads in it. The bolts go straight through into the cast iron block.

Try unplugging the maf sensor and then starting it. You won't be able to rev it past 2 or 3k rpm but it should still run.

T would be turbo but there is no factory VG33ET. If you turbo it yourself I guess it would become that. Just like a VG34 is a bored over 33... I have had a wd21 since 2005. I have played around with various intakes, honestly it makes no difference it was very well designed. The only exception is maybe the exhaust, headers make a little difference. If you are going to wheel it at all leave the stock intake on, and add a snorkel if you plan on using it as a boat.

There is no vg33et. ER yes, that is the supercharged Xterra/frontier variant. I put a "cold air intake" on mine. All it did was make noise, and reduce filtering efficiency. I put the stock air filter housing back in and sold the thing on ebay.

My 94 has almost half a million km on the original motor and I have no fuel smells from anywhere. I'm betting the hoses at the fuel rail just need the host clamps tightened. If in doubt, replaced the lines, they are cheap.

Almost sounds like a failing alternator or power steering pump.

I usually lift mine right behind the tension rod mounts and right in front of the lower link mounts.

I'm curious as to how it "blew up". Lots of blow by? Broken connecting rod? These engines have forged internals from the factory as they were designed to be boosted. (originally in the 300zx) It would be worth building a vg33 for it.

Most body shop supply places will mix paint and put it in a spray bomb for you. I even got them to mix the clear in for the rockers on mine. Mine is white though and fairly hard to match as well.

Get that side post battery out of there, and put the proper sized one with top posts in. It came with a top post battery originally. May want to replace the cables as well, it is likely causing the starting issue. The oil sensor wire is literally a 3 dollar fix with some wire and a spade connector as mentioned above. Replace the cam seals I bet that is the leak, usually the valve covers drip onto the exhaust. As for the ticking, if it is losing oil it is either burning or leaking. Leaking you can fix with parts. Burning is from age/wear and is much more costly to repair. I would run a thicker oil like a 10w40 or 15w40 and see if it slows down.

You could just sell them to help pay for the 33s.

I did notice an increase in power. But before that I had the stock exhaust which was repaired in sections with various spare pieces of pipe I was able to scrounge up. I have 33" tires and it does seem to hold speed easier on the highway. It's amazing what graduating college and getting a real job can do for the budget, lol.

Probably get 4k for it. Clean it up nice. Maybe fix that rust spot as well. I'd probably buy it if I didn't live on the opposite side of the continent. The issue you will have is many people who buy these now are just looking for something cheap to beat around in. You'll eventually find someone who is an enthusiast, or has some nostalgia associated with the pathfinder.

According to my amazon history, I ordered: PaceSetter 70-1197 Black Exhaust Header Don't do this. It is there to help emissions. I'm no hippy but if it is working fine, leave it alone. Besides you will have a code if it doesn't work.

To be honest the auto ones look like they would fit on either an auto or a manual. I have them. Fit and finish sucks so be prepared to "modify" some stuff. I had to beat and bend the fskc out of my egr tube cause the bung was angled wrong. Mine were long tube.

Usually they don't ever go bad. Even if the boots were torn, you'd hear them clicking whenever you turn in 4wd or 2wd with hubs locked. They never turn otherwise so they pretty much last as long as the boots don't let all the grease out. I change the boots on my factory ones because all the aftermarket axles suck, at least so it seems.

Could pull the driveshaft and lock the hubs, and take it for a test drive. While its out check that the slip joint and u joints operate smoothly. If it still happens your problem is in the CV's. I did have an issue with certain aftermarket cv axles causing this. And it felt like the more you got on the throttle the worse it got. They were Cardone parts.

Check the front driveshaft, u joints or the slip joint could be binding. Does it change at all if you drive with the hubs locked, but shifter in 2hi? (engage 4wd, but don't reverse after shifting to 2hi)

That's only the crappy r50, and xterra LSD. The wd21 version is way better from the factory. 200+lbs breakaway if i remember correct.

It will likely be that the bearing is failing on the distributor. It will be okay cold, but when hot it will not spin freely or cause vibrations that will make the sensor not work.

Do you know if the guy who sold it to you, is the guy who installed it? Or was it just some guy who bought it down the line?

Start in front of the axle, it twists and turns but isn't too bad. Make sure the truck is jacked up high enough or the muffler will get stuck on the ground.