HayesWD21

Thank you!!

Yes, rear drums on this old girl. Rigid line supplies the wheel cylinder . M10X1.0 is a good start, thanks! just need to know the tube diameter and I'm golden.

Ok, rear wheel cylinders are leaking, so time to change them no big deal. HOWEVER the brake line and fitting looks like they're married to the old wheel cylinder so my money is on having to replace the line from the junction block to the wheel cylinder. What size line/fittings are on these guys? I'm just going to bite the bullet and pick this stuff up before I twist the old line off and have to walk to the parts store across town lol.

Thanks guys, since I posted I was able to get my hands on a FSM and had some time to take the inner panels off the front doors. As some of you suspected the linkage between the lock tumbler and mechanism had come apart, pretty tight squeeze for these hands but managed to get everything back together and working properly. (Even got a new handle from RockAuto so I don't have to reach in from the back seat to open the drivers door *WINNING!*) A little more troubleshooting found that the door lock timer is flakey (at best) sometimes it works flawlessly other times it'll lock randomly and wont allow you to unlock. Being the type of guy that would rather reach across the seat to unlock for the wife VS get locked out of the rig in the bush I decided to just unplug @ the door lock timer(that way the power windows still work) and use the locks manually now that the keys work in the door again. If I get the time I may wire up a few relays to bypass the timer and have working power locks again but that's low on the list. While I was looking at the wiring I decided to find out just how bad of an abortion the aftermarket remote starter and radio were...was not overly surprised. Removed all of the remote starter wiring. The fuse would randomly blow for the radio/interior lights so I figured there was a wire rubbing somewhere but what I found was much more interesting. Buddy that installed the radio didn't opt for the aftermarket antenna adapter and decided instead to "splice" two wires together, twist the ends, tape them and shove them into the antenna plug @ the back of the radio....thus creating a dead short whenever I hit a bump and blowing the fuse. NEEDLESS to say I have addressed the issue and now have interior lights and a proper functioning radio again. People never cease to amaze lol.

Alright, new Nissan owner here. Reading through the topics for Power Lock issues on the WD21's but I'm not seeing my exact problem. Went to unlock the rig with my key (PO never gave me the FOB, just got the rig so I haven't had time to look through the entire thing yet) but the door wouldn't unlock....key turns to the left and right but the lock doesn't go up or down and obviously door won't open, broke the drivers side handle off *rage*, then managed to sneak in through the back gate. Once in I couldn't even get out of the darn thing, every time I pulled the lock up it re-latched. Snuck back out the gate after popping the hood and pulled the fusible link so the locks have no power, managed to unlock everything manually after that but I'm confused as to why the key does not lock or unlock the doors from outside. Even with the power cut to the locks they don't work from outside..can I not just leave the locks as manual? Do I actually have to replace this silly door lock timer that seems to cause so much frustration? I haven't had the chance to take the panel off the door yet to have a look and see what's going on in the doors yet, I'm sure I'll be a little smarter once I do that but was hoping for some insight before taking things apart. Thanks.