adamzan

Put some silicone spray or something on the hose so it slides on easier. I also put mine in boiling water to make it more pliable. Make sure the aluminum ends on the pipes are clean so no chance of leaks with the new hose.

Yep. This is what it looks like with all covers off: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/attachments/f46/74945d1393699080-bypass-hose-replacement-v6-1393699078803.jpg

Mine has 275,000 miles on it with no issues. I'm sure its lack of maintenance from previous owners.

It could be something completely different, like swaybar links.

Oh you're doing the 2wd swap... Never mind I have no experience with that.

If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable. Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.

Did you use the vg33 or vg30 oil pan?

Mine is yellow with a red stripe. Checked last night.

All it is, is the new adapters on the lines, the seals, and the oil has to be flushed out... If you have access to r12 i would just use that. But I would repair any leaks before filling it obviously.

If it's no fault just put it through insurance and get it repaired. Doesn't look too bad. Looks like he needs all the power that 750 has to haul his fat ass around.

Try a 5w40 or 5w50. But if it just started ticking out of the blue, you have other issues that you need to investigate.

Likely not unless you can find a gauge that works off the same resistance values. It is possible but I've never looked. The wire for your stock gauge should be in the harness that runs right there, may have to cut the tape and loom off but I bet it is in there somewhere. I will look at mine later and let you know the colour if you want.

Honestly it is not that common to fail. I would just pick up another JY spare when you can and call it good.

Replaced all my dashboard light bulbs last night. Used the sylvania ones with the blue coating so it looks OEM. Looks like a brand new truck inside again.

That guy would be wrong, they are all the same. I had that problem on my 95, but not my 94 that I have now. Crazy enough. I would purchase the harness and install it. It does seem to cure the issue for most people.

I am looking for both for mine. Will probably just suck it up and buy both.

Last I heard, he doesn't work there anymore.

It is. My friends Xterra had that part fail and it would not idle worth a @!*% on initial starts. Hard for it to make oil pressure at 300rpm....

No problem. It would just suck to have the belt fail shortly after all that work.

Those lights are the code for a bad alternator. If you had an automatic the trans temp light would light up as well.

Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper. It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks.

Just got out and wheeled it!

That's a vg33e

Did you put a panhard drop bracket in?

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html And now you do!