adamzan

Hopefully it is not the problem but it would be the first thing Id check after making sure the fuel pump is running.

You can still get the seal from Nissan. Around 60 dollars if I remember right. Not worth the time pissing around in a wrecking yard for me.

Might want to pull the cap and see if the rotor turns when you crank it. If it doesn't the belt likely broke.

Check to make sure the pump is running. Check the fuses and the sending unit (known to corrode at the wires going into it at the top). There is an access hole under the cargo area carpet. Did you check to see if there is spark? When was the timing belt last changed?

That is what happened to mine. I picked up a new one off rock auto, and was running fine again.

You can either fix yours and then you know what you have. Or find another one and possibly start a whole new set of issues.

Nissan can still get them last time I checked.

I have not, but I would just make sure the height won't be an issue. Personally I would stick with the group 24 as that is what fits. It's a pretty common and easy to find battery.

You can buy the proper ones from any place that sells body shop supplies.

Nice work! I replaced my speakers on my 95 with a set of Pioneers, forget the exact model but they required NO modification to fit. Which if you do a bit of digging, is near impossible to find in the proper 5x7 size.

My WD21 did this recently when it was cold. Is/was the coolant low? Mine was low enough that the water pump was cavitating and making foam. I topped it up, bled the system, and haven't had an issue since. It was also -35C when this happened so I didn't notice an overheat, but the temp would not be consistent. I had also added some (probably a bad idea), water pump lubricant that was white in color which may have contributed to the issue.

Sounds like the distributor could be taking a crap. Take the cap off and inspect for any brown/red/gold dust in there. Very common on the 3.3.

It would have been only very late production WD21's that were affected by this. I have one and the engine runs fine, though I have no idea if it was replaced or not. It couldn't hurt to call and ask. Honestly if it is still running fine (quiet) now, it probably has been done. If anything the dealer can look it up and see if it was.

I can't say I'd recommend moog anymore after a recent experience. I replaced both front LCA on my 2004 Golf with moog units. When I went to tighten the swaybar links to spec (factory 30~ft-lbs), the holes in the arms stripped. I ended up re tapping and using helicoils as moog wouldn't warranty them. Those who know me know I don't jam @!*% in with the impact. To top it off, it's been just over a year and the bushings are already all cracked. I will also mention the ball joints I got from them for my pathfinder last about 6 months at a time. I replaced the other side with ACDelco and it's been on there for 2 years. The boots just fall off on the moogs. They used to be good years ago when I first got into cars, but they are just @!*% these days.

The spacers will have no impact on ride quality, as you're still keeping the stock spring rate.

Take the cap off the distributor and if there is any brown/gold/red/bronze coloured dust in there, it is the bearing in the distributor. Extremely common on the VG33E, and it doesn't hurt to check given your mileage. Mine (Xterra, but same distributor) would give spark when you checked for it, but not enough to fire the engine. I've changed mine twice now (got a defective aftermarket one the first time, only lasted 3k).

Yeah, the o ring is like 10 bucks from nissan. Had to change it on my parents maxima. 10 minute fix.

Normal operation. Generally when it is that cold here I will nurse it along as slowly as I can. That's just for any car until its warmed up not just my pathfinder. I would block off half the radiator with an old pizza or amazon box. Added bonus is better heat.

The relay fix has been working in my wd21 for a decade. Obviously diagnose before firing the parts canon at it, but you're probably on the right track. Clean all your battery and starter connections anyway. Do what slart said about testing the switch, it's pretty easy, and a new ignition switch (this is separate from the lock cylinder) isn't too expensive. Is it an AT or MT?

Haha. I have a complete VG33ER sitting in my garage. It would make a great replacement for the 500k 3.0 in my pathfinder. But it needs a rebuild first.

The Xterra/Frontiers have the accessories in the same place as the wd21 so it would make sense that those brackets would work. Would be a good time to install the supercharger off an X while you're at it

I think it would be worth replacing them on the front only if you're lifted. In sport mode they make the truck handle 1000 times better.

If you look right to the left of the distributor you will see one of the lines he is talking about. It is a straight 3-4" piece of hose. I've replaced mine once and the replacement is already doing the same thing.

If all the connections are good and tight, then it must be a defective alternator.

They are still available. I checked somewhat recently and for all for it would be around 500 dollars.