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OH6PILOT last won the day on April 11 2018

OH6PILOT had the most liked content!

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  • Birthday August 19

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 Nissan Pathfinder 4WD XE1994 Nissan Pathfinder 4WD XE1993 Nissan Pathfinder 4WD XEYES...3 PATHFINDERS
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. I had to do a custom mod on my oil pickup since I had a VG33 Oil pump and needed to fit a VG30E 4WD Pan. Was kinda tricky, but I got it to work out fine. Where did you find an AU balancer for the VG33 Crank??
  2. Sucks that all of this happened in Austin. My condolences to the families of those hurt and killed. Looks like they found the guy, and he blew himself up. Don't have much sympathy for someone sending bombs randomly through Fedex or UPS. Worst part, he messed up a good looking 95 Pathfinder. Would hate to find out he was a member here...
  3. Did you follow the FSM and reset the ECM so that you can attempt a proper code reading? Just in case... here's the idle check from the FSM.
  4. Gotcha. Yeah, I feel for you. There are alot of sites that "talk" about the swap, and list what was changed, etc, but nothing that really talks about the pitfalls, the minor differences that become MAJOR changes, etc. those are all things i'm trying to cover with this thread. I have literally taken over 3,000 photos during this swap/conversion, and i'm going through them pic by pic to make sure i don't leave anything out, then editing with the arrows/notations so that people don't run into the same issues I did. It might be overkill, but it will literally be step-by-step. I almost went with the full VG33 conversion in regards to the accessories, but it would have required fully swapping everything to the opposite sides, and that wasn't gonna work...lol.
  5. Did you perform the timing IAW the FSM? ie: Top L&R sprockets align with dimples on rear timing cover, bottom sprocket aligns with dimple on oil pump housing, and verify proper number of teeth between sprockets? (mind you this is all done with the number one cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center)) If you have accomplished that correctly and properly tensioned the timing belt, then you should make sure pull the distributor, remove the cap, then point the rotor at the number one plug location. easiest way to do that is to use a sharpie and mark the side of the dizzy at the #1 position while the cap is on. When you've done that, reinstall the dizzy (hold the rotor in place while installing) so that it's pointing at the number one position after installation. if the timing is off, it's not going to sound right at all... and...hopefully when you set TDC it wasn't 180 degrees out....
  6. While some of the stuff I've pulled off may not be "required", it makes access to the engine and the differential A LOT easier. I did remove the differential as well, and honestly removed ALOT of stuff that may not have been necessary for the engine swap, but it was stuff that I was going to overhaul anyway. Even though there may be excess, it's meant to be informational. Unfortunately I was editing Item #23 above and the forum kicked my edits and trashed a whole page worth of text, which I'm trying to get admins to assist with getting me editing rights to this thread...
  7. Currently designing one for the WD21 to go onto both of my Pathfinders
  8. Can I get a site admin or moderator to contact me to work on editing rights for a thread? Just spent 20 mins typing a full edit and when I went to post, it said "YOU DONT HAVE PERMISSION" and dumped the entire post.

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. RedPath88


      The server move is stalled due to time restrictions (in my personal life.) But either way, a server change will not alter the edit timeframe, that is restricted due to serious abuse in the past. :(

    3. OH6PILOT


      RedPath...PM Sent

    4. RedPath88


      Thanks, I'll get back to you on that. Did you also want a post edited?

  9. 23. Remove all engine belts, loosened mounts on Alternator, PS pump and AC Compressor, Remove Idler Pulley& Bracket
  10. 22. Removed Front Tires (No need to post a pics here...self-explanatory...put the truck on front jack stands)
  11. 21. Remove Front LH and RH fender assys Remove Front Lower Retention Bolts (Note: My fenders have been trimmed for the larger tires, so this may not look like a normal fender) Remove Front Upper Bolts. Ensure that bolts to the right and left sides of headlights are removed. Remove Hood Track Bolts Remove bolts from body where cowl top grille was installed.
  12. 20. Remove Front Cowl Top Grille Assembly Remove screws securing cowl top grille to body.
  13. Each Sprocket is labeled and needs to be installed correctly in order to ensure the right tooth count, etc.
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