adamzan

It's still pretty cool outside in the mornings, does it smell like coolant? If not it is probably just condensation. I had a similar issue where it would stumble and unless you gave it decent throttle it would hesitate on take off. Turned out my idle air control valve had a crack in it. It basically acted like a vacuum leak until it sealed up at temp and the truck drove fine... I had swapped in a JDM engine and re used my old intake (the previous owner drove it with a leaking rad and massively overheated the motor, so I assume that's how it got damaged). Chased that down for a good six months!

I'm looking at some shocks for the front of mine as well. I have the RS5000 off of my old wd21 but like you I was never really happy with them. I have the bilstein 5125 on the back now and they are great, but none made for the front. Was thinking about just using the 4600 series, the blue and yellow on the front instead. Right now I have some garbage Monroe Sensacrap installed as the oem ones were leaking and wouldn't pass inspection. I'm a little miffed about the door handle. I can rob the one off of my old 94 but it is probably just as brittle. Time to order a new one from Nissan if they still make them.

Almost 300 cases here. I'm in IT so am considered essential although we still don't get any respect lol. Most people seem to be following the rules but there have been reports of people out. I'm hoping we can still have some wheeling events this year.

Broke the passenger side door handle off. First time in 15 years of pathfinder ownership. Guess my time was coming.

I was looking at those for my next set!

You can attach files here now, see example:

Years ago the FB group was started mainly for the really active members to have a place to chat. Then as facebook groups evolved more people joined. A few years ago when photobucket pulled their bull@!*% that was the real nail in the coffin for forums. Now that people are starting to realize how evil FB is, maybe they will come back here.

Not sure about the rest of you but I've never been able to get a puller in there without removing the radiator. The shroud and fan are already off so why not just remove it. 2 bolts and it should lift right out. You don't need to remove the AC but just be careful getting the upper cover past the AC line. This is an R50 specific issue IIRC as the wd21 and the Xterra have different routing.

It cost me $700 canadian for my 02 X trans. It had about 120,000 km on it. Came out of a truck that was side swiped. The transfer case was included in that price so not a bad deal at all.

Facebook killed the forums and it is sad because the real database of info is here.

FTFY

I hate wheel locks and refuse to use them on any car I have.

Just get an aftermarket one. I've had no problems with the spectra premium ones from Canadian tire/Partsource. I think I paid $150 for a lifetime warranty unit. I know what you mean about the filler neck. My current 95 came with one where it was almost oval shaped and the cap would kind of tighten but not hold pressure.

You can use the auto trans radiator on the manual. I did that on mine as all the aftermarkets are the same (with the trans cooler in the bottom).

Yes it would be a dealer thing, but they are dirt cheap. At least they used to be.

When I brought my wd21 in I told them to change the oil at the same time. So I came out with new seatbelts, fresh oil and OEM filter for $40. I felt like at least giving them some business made them not treat me like some leech lol.

If you're replacing any hoses, the bypass hose is the one to do. It can be done afterwards but is a pain to get to. If the rad hoses are in good shape you can probably leave them. I've never replaced the key on any of mine, but that's not saying I've done things right either. The cam and crank seals have bit me in the ass like Slartibartfast as well. My crank seal started leaking 3 months after the job and of course before a long weekend road trip was to take place lol. The parts are pretty cheap on rock auto, so if you can stretch it I would just do it all. @Mr_Reverse aren't the keyways only an issue on the earlier VG's? I've never had a problem with any of mine, but they are all 94 and up. I do recall several people having issues with the (basically square tooth belt time frame) versions. I'm pretty sure they changed the design at one point. The VG33 style is definitely different.

I have used aftermarket belts without any problems. But the OEM ones have perfect alignment marks and are only a few dollars more.

I've always used 5w30 in mine. 10w30 is not really recommended for anything anymore. 5w30 gives the same high temp protection and better cold flow rate. Sometimes I have ran 0w40 in the truck but only when I had some left over from my VW. It started up in -30C like it was summer time!

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/1995/ec.pdf

By will not crank do you mean the engine does not turn over at all? Usually if it won't start hot it could indicate poor fuel pressure if is still turning over. Have you tested the pressure with a gauge? You can rent them at most auto parts stores.

Nice job!

I've still yet to see a failed hem nissan FPR on these trucks. A lot of people change them, but there is no need at all. And in some cases it can be detrimental lol.

The ones in the wd21 are perfect in mine somehow. But there is gobs of oil and grease in that spot. The benefit of living its entire life before me at quick lube places I guess. They don't seem to do that for you anymore though lol. Sadly the Xterra has the same issue, the pin is seized but at least the hinge looks replaceable as an assembly. I had an issue where it would cause the truck to stumble on take off, and the rpms would hang at like 1.5-2k even when warm. When it was cold it was all over the place. Replacing the TPS with another (off a parts truck) resolved the issue. Then comes the problem of setting it correctly lol. I opted to swap the whole throttle body off my parts truck so it was already set in the right spot.