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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Tonight I built a set of headers for my Pathy:

 

2012-02-17_01-13-51_354.jpg

 

:aok:

 

Tomorrow I'll take them to be ceramic coated. Next up will be prototyping the Y pipe I'm going to produce for these trucks. I'm going to do full exhaust with a Flowmaster at the same time so this VG34 can finally breathe. I can't wait to see what it pulls like when it's not exhaling through a damned straw! :jig:

That's awesome! You must have a hell of a lot of equipment in your shop. I've been waiting for several months now on steeevo's group buy for DT headers, I guess it's not going to happen.

James

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The antenna was stuck at half-mast when I got mine. The radio worked, but I'm not into leaving well enough alone, so I pulled it out to see if I could fix it. Turned out the long nylon geared thing had busted off. I ended up buying just the antenna part on eBay, brand new, and fitting it to the old motor (which was fine). It was a royal PITA to do but it works, and I don't think it cost me more than $30.

 

Also, nice headers!

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Passenger side valve cover is leaking terribly... maybe my rear main is not toast?

 

I see no issues with the passenger side, but I assume that if it is leaking then the drivers side is probably in need of a gasket as well... I am not a half way kind of guy... so if I do one the other will be done as well...

 

Anybody done this before that can shoot me some pointers advice? The intake over the drivers side looks like a PITA...

Edited by tmoore4512
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Passenger side valve cover is leaking terribly... maybe my rear main is not toast?

 

I see no issues with the passenger side, but I assume that if it is leaking then the drivers side is probably in need of a gasket as well... I am not a half way kind of guy... so if I do one the other will be done as well...

 

Anybody done this before that can shoot me some pointers advice? The intake over the drivers side looks like a PITA...

 

I would do the pass and drivers side at the same time.

 

When mine were leaking it looked just like a rear main so definatly do the covers first.

 

Passenger side is a breeze just remove the 2 pcv vaccumn lines from the cover and take the screw out.

 

Now i don't know if yours will be like mine but the rubber had turned into solid rock it seemed and i had to practically chisel it off of the valve cover.

 

For the drivers side you need to remove the intake manifold, coolant passage lines, spark plug wires and random vaccumn lines it takes alittle more time but still easy enough to do.

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I finally replaced my sweating radiator overflow hose. I had the part for like a month, just been lazy in getting it replaced. I ran out of pre-mixed Nissan coolant and had to top off with distilled water, but that's no big deal in Florida.

 

What is the point of this thing under my washer fluid filler cap? It's all clogged up with sediment.

 

th_IMG_20120218_165754.jpg

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It looks good even with the xterra emblem! I was just giving you a hard time. The emblem on mine was all faded so I sanded it off and repainted it.

James

 

 

How did you mount the exterra rack, just wondering cause i have a custom rack i want to put on mine but was worried about drilling holes in the roof...Thanks!

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I would do the pass and drivers side at the same time.

 

When mine were leaking it looked just like a rear main so definatly do the covers first.

 

Passenger side is a breeze just remove the 2 pcv vaccumn lines from the cover and take the screw out.

 

Now i don't know if yours will be like mine but the rubber had turned into solid rock it seemed and i had to practically chisel it off of the valve cover.

 

For the drivers side you need to remove the intake manifold, coolant passage lines, spark plug wires and random vaccumn lines it takes alittle more time but still easy enough to do.

Yep, I fully intend on doing both at the same time. I searched the garage, the how to's, etc but came up with nothing. I have done many a rebuild, re gasket, etc, just curious what I was going to be looking at on the VG30. Thanks for the informative reply brother!

 

How did you mount the exterra rack, just wondering cause i have a custom rack i want to put on mine but was worried about drilling holes in the roof...Thanks!

 

Hey man, it was no big deal. I am in the process of doing a write up and will post it on my website as soon as it is done. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow.

 

How did you mount it...im worried about drilling holes in my roof

 

As for drilling holes in the roof, it is no big deal. Just be patient and if you take your time, its no issue.

 

I plan on mounting mine using riv nuts or nut serts, a little silicone on the inserts before putting the bolts in should prevent any leaks

 

I used "Jack Nuts" along with some silicone, no leaks to report....yet! And it is SOLID. Most body shops use these types of fasteners on repairs, its quick and painless...for the most part.

 

Pulled the air conditioner belt off, hoping to kill my 2k rpm squeaky sound... nope. Filled 'er up.

 

Did the same thing on mine... Thought it was my A/C clutch. Turned out to be the power steering.... Yay. Another thing to add to the list to be repaired...

 

Installed my custom made idler arm brace and went wheelin' to test it out!!! Awesome day of win. lol

 

And that brace is highly SEXY by the way... Glad it worked out...

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Group buy? Wha?? I want in...

Contact Steeevo at rugged rocks. Last I heard he was waiting on 3 more people to commit to get the headers made. He needs at least 10 sets to get DT to make them because they are not in production anymore.

 

 

How did you mount it...im worried about drilling holes in my roof

Use a unibit step drill to drill the holes for a nice round hole. If you use a regular twist drill on thin metal it will jump around and give you a jagged hole. Then put some threaded rivet nuts so you can remove it easily. This is the same way nissan mounted it on the xterra but they used a hex shaped rivet nut to prevent turning which would require a punch to make the hole. You can get the step drill and the rivet nuts at harbor freight for pretty cheap. I sealed mine with window caulk, some silicone mixtures will eat through paint and rust the metal.

James

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Pulled the air conditioner belt off, hoping to kill my 2k rpm squeaky sound... nope. Filled 'er up.

 

 

Yeah, me too. If I find the fix I'll be sure to let you know via PM. :thumbsdown:

 

 

Also, replaced my horns from a Chevy van to get rid of my "eeeeeeep" sounding horn. Four minute install!!!

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Also, replaced my horns from a Chevy van to get rid of my "eeeeeeep" sounding horn. Four minute install!!!

 

Oh, do tell.....could you go into more detail......what year Chevy van? Pictures? Video or audio clip would be nice too!

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Yeah, me too. If I find the fix I'll be sure to let you know via PM. :thumbsdown:

 

 

Also, replaced my horns from a Chevy van to get rid of my "eeeeeeep" sounding horn. Four minute install!!!

Did you have to use a relay? Most import vehicles have two terminals, one hot all the time and a ground to actuate. The chevy horn should just have one positive terminal. I've done the swap before using a relay but it took more than four minutes.

James

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Did you have to use a relay? Most import vehicles have two terminals, one hot all the time and a ground to actuate. The chevy horn should just have one positive terminal. I've done the swap before using a relay but it took more than four minutes.

James

The horns I personally used were just 2 wire horns, splice the power into the factory power wire-ground wire into the mounting bolt and poof! Become horny! wait...

 

 

 

0219121626.jpg

that

 

is

 

AWSOME!!!

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The horns I personally used were just 2 wire horns, splice the power into the factory power wire-ground wire into the mounting bolt and poof!

 

 

:yeahthat: Exactly. I connected the ground wire to the mounting bolt and used a wire butt to connect the positive leed. The install was as simple as removing the Nissan part to installing the GM horn. They even used the same 10mm bolt!

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