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Everything posted by Nefarious

  1. You will also need the RE4R01A transmission, not sure what a 4 cylinder hardbody comes with, but the diesel uses the same base transmission as the v6 auto.
  2. To properly run your td27 with a gas auto trans, you will need to rewire the transmission wiring, as well as use the diesel transmission control unit, it moves the shift points for the diesel engine. I hope you got the diesel torque converter with your swap as well, as it is different than the gas, as well. The wiring for the v6 tcu has the same 2 connector setup, so you could get the connectors from any v6 pathfinder. The wiring pin out is similar to the v6 gas auto trans wiring except there's one or two less wires on the diesel loom and a couple of the sensors go to different places. The gas ecu sends coolant temp, tps etc to the auto trans computer. On the diesel, there's no ecu, so there's engine mounted sensors for the trans. A tps is mounted to the top of the injection pump and the coolant temp is one of three coolant sensors on the upper coolant neck. I could take a picture of the diesel tcu wiring connectors so you have them for wire colour reference, on the weekend. I don't have a diesel wiring diagram, but using the pathy fsm and the Terrano wiring harness I was able to figure it out. I had an entire donor vehicle so I made a custom wiring harness basically 50% pathy and 50% terrano. I'm pretty sure it's just tps and cts, but the rotational sensor on the front of the injection pump might also send a signal there, can't remember that last one. I'll have to check on the weekend. Best I have for now, hope that helps.
  3. Next time just hook up an impact to the torsion bar tensioner bolts (with the front of the vehicle on frame stands) until the bars go loose, you can then just slide them out. It's literally just one bolt each that tensions the torsion bars before you can remove them. Once the t bars are out, the front diff comes down in about 45 minutes and from there it's very very easy to get at all the bolts to remove the engine. It opens the whole space up quite a lot. Saves a lot of headaches and cursing!
  4. For the record I have pulled engines from wd21s and r50s about 7 or 8 times now, and engine swapped 3 trucks. I can get the engine out in about 4 or 5 hours now but it wasn't always this way, lol.
  5. Remove the torsion bars, unbolt the Cv axles from the front diff, Unbolt and drop the front diff, it's all easy from there. That's for a manual truck. For an auto truck you can slip it out without dropping the diff - if you are creative with a jack to tilt the trans. I've tried to cut corners before but it always ends up taking more time. If you want to get it done quicjly and easily just do it properly and remove the torsion bars and front diff. That's the way you are supposed to do it.
  6. Reinstalled bumper, lights, wiring through the engine bay and rad support area, tightened all the lines up, mounted the fenders. Just have to change the filters and add the fluids and a few more wiring connections and I'll be ready to fire up the diesel tomorrow.
  7. The moog upper ball joints are garbage to be honest. Beck arnley seem to be the best for durability. You called it, the dust boots are the issue. They aren't sealed whatsoever and don't last due to this fact. I have however had excellent luck with the 2wd problem solver inner tie rods. 50k and 4 years of hard driving and logging roads / wheeling and they are still tight as the day we put them in. As for articulation. As balanced as possible would be ideal between compression and extension travel, but having it on the higher side by an inch or two might be beneficial depending on the roads you drive on. The logging roads here have a lot of pot holes, so down travel is very important or you are in for a rough ride. We don't have a huge amount of speed bump like humps on my trails, aside from obstacles thst would be taken slowly. As for the roads, bad pot holes, so the more down travel, the better. I would aim for around 4 compression / 3 extension if possible but that would be for my roads. If you are out in the flat lands or a desert it could be completely different.
  8. Cleaned up the diesel fuel hard lines, diesel tank fill tube and retainer and all the rubber and removed all the rust (from the metal parts obviously ). Painted said items with a rust inhibiting primer and top coated black. Cleaned up the inside of the diesel tank (a little tar here and there but not too bad) and the pickup / level sending unit (totally gunked up) and re applied the tanks undercoating while taking care of any minor surface rust. Almost ready to start assembling all the diesel components in the pathy...
  9. No problem. I promise the plenum pull is much easier if you ever do it a second time. haha
  10. Sure thing. The two smaller lines there are plenum coolant lines. They tee off the heater hose hard pipes. If you look where your heater core lines connect to the firewall pipes, follow those heater core lines back toward the engine. You will see there's 2 hard pipes and off each hard pipe is a separate hose fitting . It tees off. The upper smaller coolant hose (the one that is just above the other) goes to the rear most heater core hard line tee(closest to firewall) the lower smaller coolant hose (the one that is just under the other) goes to the forward most heater core hard line tee (closest to the back of the engine). I agree those two lines are a pain in the rear, hardest part about a plenum removal. I suggest getting a set of long needle nose pliers. I got a set from the local tool house they are approx 10-12 inches long. One is straight needle, one is 45 degree and one is 90 degree tip. They are absolutely vital tools to have for working on imports! Hope that helped
  11. Also I wouldn't advise seafoam as a regular use item on an engine. Especially one that may have dust buildup. All it does is force all the junk through the engine and cam end up doing damage if it breaks loose a big chunk or carbon or washes a bunch of dirt through. As laborious as it is, best to pull the plenum snd clean it by hand. It can be done in a day or at the least a weekend. Then you can clean your iacv, egr etc individually and re gasket the plenum. It solves so many little nagging issues these old girls may develop
  12. Valve issue shouldn't bog the vehicle out like that. Sounds pretty intermittent. I would be looking more towards sensors and electrical. If it were me, I would probably go through all the wiring first and clean / tighten all the connectors. Push the female sockets closed a bit so the pins fit tight again. Sounds similar to an issue I had on my 240sx when my maf connector plug started to get loose at the pins. Sometimes these old girls just need a good clean so all the electronics can talk properly again. Worth a shot and it's free. Would also check ecu codes and run a compression test - first dry and then wet to confirm the engine health.
  13. Finally finished the diesel wiring conversion on my 92 se. Added all of the jdm options including headlight washers and side fender light secondary turn signals, glow plug controller, gauge cluster, clinometer etc... as well as added a/c and wired for automatic climate control. Also had to rewire the vehicle for the diesel auto trans computer. Now here's hoping I didn't mess anything up... nervous to put a battery in it, alas I cannot test it until the engine is in.
  14. You can test this, remove the positive and the negative leads from your battery. Then take a multimeter set to continuity test and place one lead on the positive battery wire on the vehicle and one lead to the aluminum body of the alternator. If there is continuity you have a short in the alternator.
  15. You likely shorted out the alternator, there must be a positive connection point touching ground / the alternator case. That is your fusible link that burned. It is basically a wire version of a fuse. And the wire that burned is the charge wire from the alternator. Best to pull the alternator and examine the rebuild closely. Check the charge terminal post and make sure the epoxy base isn't broken, allowing it to make contact with the alternator body. If that's fine I would open it up again see where it's shorting.
  16. Yeah you just need to bypass the inhibitor relay. You will also have to manually wire the reverse switxh to the reverse light circuit
  17. I believe the cases are different lengths and won't work.
  18. Continued the td27t swap. Wiring is almost finished.
  19. The stock sensor is a temp switch that triggers a dummy light. It's just a set of contacts that close. You will need a proper analog pressure sensor which should come with the gauge.
  20. Picked up a terrano turbo diesel parts truck to swap into my 92 pathfinder se. Should have the truck here by the end of January and then I can get started on the gas to diesel swap!
  21. Check all the wiring connectors for loose pins. Check all grounds. Make sure your battery connections aren't corroded. You may want to clean the maf sensor element (use only maf sensor cleaner and do not never touch the maf element with anything, just spray quickly and repeatedly until it is all clean, other chemicals like brake clean can damage it) Always good to have a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge with some brass fittings and a tee. Assure vacuum is strong (around 20-24 inches of mercury at idle) and fuel pressure is in spec (38 psi at idle and 45 psi at 3500 rpm). You can check impedance of the injectors to rule out weak injectors at the front injector harness connection where it joins the main harness on the front of the passenger (right side) side valve cover. Also of course before all of this run the ecu for codes in the diagnostic mode and test your o2 sensor function in the o2 diagnostic section. Report back, good luck
  22. Used my parts pathys hood as a work bench to hold my tools and parts, while working on my 240sx unibody rebuild / rust repair / custom turbo setup. Just finished tearing apart the t3 turbo for a full rebuild and finished up another unibody panel to 100% rust free status. Making progress now ! Got setup to weld stainless steel now as well and built a 3/8" stainless 7 bolt t3 turbo flange from scratch as well.
  23. If you want the supercharger it will work, but you need the donor wiring harness and ecu as well as the full engine including alternator/ p.s. pump/ supercharger from said xterra. You will also have to have custom a/c lines made if you wish to keep your ac. A simple 3.3 swap will run on your old ecu and wiring harness just fine but you will still have to get creative with the accessories unless you get a crank adapter to run your old accessories
  24. Why are you running 20-50? VGs need 5-30 oil.
  25. The compressor motor is probably getting stiff bearings. Initial startup current will increase greatly if the motor starts to seize. In hvac equipment, they will install a 'start capacitor' as a bandaid for this issue to get more life out of the compressor motor.

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