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deluded last won the day on April 20 2021

deluded had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    3" suspension lift with flipped axles (thanks to this forum for the info/instructions!) stock rear springs with weight jackers Custom 2" body lift 2WD steering conversion Rancho adjustables on the corners cleaned out SCARY heater box (thanks again to this forum!) Headlight/driving light rewire with very clean custom mod'ed OEM fuse box Mod'ed tire swing for jerry can stowage Working on xterra roof rack for 2nd spare and KC HID 8" drivers + KC daylighters Warn M8000 on custom tube bumper... in progress Stock wheels with 33x10.5 BFGs Q45 brake bracket with '02 Pathy rotor upgrade... in progress Rear tube bumper with HiLift mount... next project VG33 and mid-mount turbo... accumulating parts
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Hiking, Fly fishing, Desert wandering, Cycling

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  1. i am sorry to post on such an old thread, but this seems like very important information and isn't stickied. Can anyone confirm that all VQ35 and Xterra 4wd trans are the HD variety AND can be used for replacement/upgrade? I'd like to purchase a JDM low mileage auto to install with my vg33 and mid-mount turbo in March. I originally planned to see if the stock output shaft would fit in a q45 trans to convert it to 4wd but I want this done for Spring desert fun so a used HD trans gets it done faster. Help is greatly appreciated
  2. My SE had the 8 speaker system with 5x7s. The cones were intact but NO rubber around the edge... and pathetic sound. I didn't want a competition stereo, just similar to stock sound. Alpine sps-517 are under 60$/pr delivered and seem to be decent quality; but they are 6x8s and absolutely will not fit in the stock housings/spacers with any amount of modification. Sound Mekanix to the rescue with their 18mm pvc cnc'd spacers (about 25$/pr delivered). 18mm is nearly identical to stock and there is no issue with window glass interference with these speakers. Sound Mekanix also has mdf spacers for less than half the cost, but water can get into the door and break that material down. I drilled the four 1/8" holes and added 1.5" number 10 stainless steel sheet metal screws for the final product: jpg images image the pvc spacers did need a VERY SLIGHT radius placed on the ends where the door sheet metal curves up... see the second pic. took 10 seconds on the grinder or even with a file. I used the same speakers in the rear but the speaker structure required about 3/32" of material removed around the entire circumference. that was a pita! while there I noticed my sound dampening material (tar with aluminized backing) was falling down/off. i applied some butal sealant from a tube/gun and used my Dynamat installation roller to make a good bond. Worked perfectly! Stereo sounds nearly as good as new (I imagine) for about 135$ (louder than the wind noise now at least ). I also added an aux input circuit to the OEM stereo so I can use the 3.5mm jack to play music from my phone.
  3. upload gambar photo uploader post a picture upload pic
  4. Finished and installed finally! Had to shorten hilift by 1.5" for rear fog light clearance (oem fronts with 100W Hellas). Less robust than I originally planned, but still stout as hell. image hosting over 5mb free screen capture software
  5. funny, sliders were the original design. Wife said no it had to match the front; she might have had a different idea if i did the rocker sliders first.
  6. A lot more tubes and triangulation to add as well as D-rings but I am happy so far. Custom laser cut frame brackets. 1.5" x .125" round and square tube. Just plan to mig it like the front. A couple diamond plate steps. Rewired the tire swing switch with a diode to turn the rear dome light on when it is opened so that the alarm will sound if anyone goes after the jack but otherwise the circuits act totally stock including indicator lights, etc. I will update after more progress is made. Should be a brick shhthouse like the front one I shared on here.
  7. Sorry for the delay, just got back from Speed Week at Bonneville Salt Flats (new car being built to make NIssan Z32 raise eyebrows again) No charge for the bumper plans as they sint and as you see the pics in this thread. If you have solid-works I am happy to share the files. I really want to put everything together with my build notes (you know how things change on a prototype as it comes together/modifications, but I am happy to share pics of the notes and the cad files at this point (interviewing for a new job later this month and studying for multiple certifications that may impress my way into the job leaves little time for the things I really enjoy ... I don't care if you want to make them for resale even... I just want to give back. The only thing I ask is that you are serious as it will take some effort at this point to gather it together.
  8. Luke, before you spend a dime on the steering components search 2wd steering conversion. Seems the way to go and lots of info on this board on how to do it. Look into the manual steering box for the idler, too.
  9. Pathy, I think guys like us with lots of experience can trust in it and get away with some shortcuts. But for younger or inexperienced auto enthusiasts the cost of short cuts is too often greater than the cost of buying/renting/borrowing the tools/correct parts and following the procedural manual to learn the "feel" of how the finished product should be. My wife and I ran RaVerMotorsports for 13 years and the best experiences for us stemmed from teaching our core group of customers (mostly guys <20 years old) how to accomplish fairly advanced maintenance and gain the confidence/satisfaction to tackle the next thing that came along. Doing things this way allowed us to roll our car off the trailer at Bonneville and El Mirage and set a record in one pass and back it up on the next at multiple events. I was lucky enough to have a grandfather raise me like a son and teach me to do things this way... there are way too many kids without any semblance of direction on how to do things right today. Typing on a forum it's easy to loose the enthusiasm that I want to impart with the information I share, and I know it can sound even snobbish, but I promise that is the exact opposite of what I'm trying to accomplish.
  10. I know these have been sold forever and thousands are in use on Pathfinders, AND I a come-lately, but follow my logic here and see if you don't agree with me. Also, remember I have most of an ME degree and multiple racing world records to my company's credit so I have a little experience in the automotive world. So, the Warn instructions state that you should discard all but the select-thickness snap ring at the bottom: The reason that snap ring is available in SEVEN thicknesses is so that the axle end play can be set to the factory spec of .004-.012" (I know few owners bother to set this up correctly, but bushing/washer and seal wear as well as added CV joint loading is the cost of not doing it right). The FSM clearly defines the procedure to set this up correctly and all the snap ring sizes are still available. So if you follow the instructions and install the Warns by simply installing the snap ring in the outer groove your end play is probably out to lunch... mine measured .065" with the original snap ring in place. That is over 5x the factory suggested maximum clearance! The thickest snap ring can't fix that by itself. If you refer to the picture again you see the silver washer; it measures .0635" thick So nearly a perfect shim but it is too large in diameter to fit inside the Warn outer hub. So I rigged it up in the lathe and turned it down to... With that washer in place I was able to set the end play to the middle of specs at .008" using an appropriate snap ring. (side note: the spindle must be near ride height for measurement so that the axle can move in and out freely) I realize that not everyone has a lathe and dial indicator on hand, but certain maintenance requires special tools to finish correctly. I have far more confidence in the longevity and reliability of the system with this modification. I've learned a ton on this forum and hope I can contribute some meaningful information back to this great community.
  11. Mevotechs didn't even have grease fittings: totally different than the picture from the seller so back they, too, went. Then ordered Proforged which by appearances are a quality product... even the box they are packaged in was nice. Thank you Nefarious, I can't wait to get this going. I may have to get a lifetime alignment option to be able to change up the ride height. I also got the PS 2wd inners based on recommendations here. I am all about spending what ever it takes time and money-wise to do a project once and minimize problems.
  12. I honestly hadn't thought about spring rate in the equation. The swayaways are supposedly fairly stiff. I'll set it up and report back; i am willing to bet the factory ride height puts it in near middle of travel at ride height... the fsm gives a lca angle for stock ride height (calculated) so I will compare and see. thank you again.
  13. thank you for the input adamzan. ordered a pair of Mevotechs upper ball joints today; i'm not willing to mess with Moog's poor boot design... very disappointed in Moog. The Moog tre for the inners on the 2wd conversion had miss-rolled threads so I couldn't use them either. Can't say I'd recommend their products to anyone after this experience. leaning toward 5 bump, 2" droop travel unless anyone has some discussion?
  14. Almost finished with the front end. Did dif drop and welded carrier, new axles from nissan, all urethane bushings, 2wd steering conversion and steering dampener, all new tre and ball joints, warn manual hubs, adjustable rancho shocks, ucas, and swayaway tbars. All steering components are MOOG problem: at max bump articulation the upper ball joint boot exposes the grease reservoir. has anyone found a es/prothane part number that fixes this? The bump travel stop is a stock one with the nub removed so it isn't even as thin as the low profile energy suspension piece that many people use. source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-Ball-Joint-Front-Upper-New-Hardbody-Pickup-Truck-for-Nissan-K9022-/121563733904?fits=Year%3A1995%7CMake%3ANissan%7CModel%3APathfinder&hash=item1c4dc35f90:g:SpMAAOSwLs5XJ3SD&vxp=mtr looks like every other manufacturer has a boot with a retaining ring to ensure that this can't happen. sucks if i wasted $60 on these. second: measured front suspension travel... right at 7 inches (tbar backed all the way off and lower a-arms against stop for upward travel and measured down from fender lip with tbar preload to force uca against droop stop). I am less concerned about looks or even clearance compared to a suspension that actually works for desert/rocks. should it be divided up for 4" bump and 3" droop or 5/2 or 3.5/3.5 or is there good advice out there for this? max droop introduced cv bind so i had to shim the droop stop to 0.75" to fix that. outer tre is very close to bind, as well. ranchos have lots of extra travel at max bump/droop. thank you for the help!
  15. RJ from Lokka contacted me today and offered for me to return the unit as they do not have a 4 pinion unit for WD21s. A word of warning for anyone considering ordering one: if you order one you must find a two pinion carrier. Looking through the manuals on Nico 1994 and 1995 Pathfinders both had 4 pinion carriers. I couldn't confirm models older than that as the FSMs are vague. Anyone who knows for certain could post here and establish a record of what the Lokka truly fits stock WD21-wise.

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