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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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I too have to join the ranks in the "NPORA change your wiper blades" day. I too chose the Bosch blades (first time using Bosch). I put them on my Miata as well.

 

Bosch wipers are usually all I ever use, they are pretty good

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If you wired everything right, you can take out your back up light switch and manually push the button. Your back up lights should come on. If you put it back in and it doesn't work, the piece inside the tranny is worn. The switch is sort of a pain to get to, I cut a slot in a cheap 19MM socket so it looks like a O2 sensor socket. That way you don't Jack up the wire.

 

this is what I was thinking. So, it's a button sort of like the brake pedal button? On/off?

When I was looking in my trans from the shifter hole, I saw kind of a slant or groove where the shifter would move the gate. There was a button in the middle of the groove. Hmm, but I guess that would have been for neutral?

So if I'm thinking right, there is a similar switch, but for reverse somewhere else?

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this is what I was thinking. So, it's a button sort of like the brake pedal button? On/off?

When I was looking in my trans from the shifter hole, I saw kind of a slant or groove where the shifter would move the gate. There was a button in the middle of the groove. Hmm, but I guess that would have been for neutral?

So if I'm thinking right, there is a similar switch, but for reverse somewhere else?

They are actually next to each other. Look on page 33 of the FSM for the Manual Tranny. The switch looks like this....

 

Switch

 

If you poke your head under, its on the passenger side, tucked up on top of the tranny near where the shifter hole would be. It looks like a nightmare to get out, but with the right tools its not so bad.

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it's so simple. I love it.

 

Is there some tool around made for this? I don't think I can go around ruining 19mm sockets. I might have a cheapo set somewhere, but I'm not sure.

 

Hmm...I know for sure that I connect that type of socket to my trans wiring harness, but that might have been the sensor that I had to solder a wire back on to.

 

O'Reilly wont tell me the price because there isn't on near me, how much does one cost just for my info.

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Your not supposed to put it on with the xterra emblem on it! Take that back off and paint it! Lol!

Everything went ok?

James

 

I left the X emblem on their for the S&G factor, plus I am a member on several Xterra forums and they will get a kick out of it...

 

All went well, took a few days of working on it when I could. I really like it! Thanks for your help brother!

 

another non sunroof xterra rack conversion?

 

One day I'll get mine on, minus the xterra sticker, LOL

 

Nope... I have the sun roof... and it made for an interesting install...working on that part of my website now...

 

LOL do you not realize that the Xterra is a WD22, born after the WD21?

 

I know I know just giving you a hard time...

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it's so simple. I love it.

 

Is there some tool around made for this? I don't think I can go around ruining 19mm sockets. I might have a cheapo set somewhere, but I'm not sure.

 

Hmm...I know for sure that I connect that type of socket to my trans wiring harness, but that might have been the sensor that I had to solder a wire back on to.

 

O'Reilly wont tell me the price because there isn't on near me, how much does one cost just for my info.

 

I bought a Harbor Freight socket, I think it was 3 bucks or something. I didnt have a 19MM sensor socket and couldnt find one, so that was easiest for me. The switch should run anywhere from 10-20 bucks depending on your local stores.

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Edit: Because I'm only recently exposing myself to all this wiring in the truck. Some one answer me..I know that random black wire that ran to noting is supposed to go somewhere. I was wondering if someone could explain to me as to where it was supposed to go. I assume its the negative because if i touch metal with it i see sparks. :D

 

Just to save you from breaking something, blowing a fuse, toasting a relay, or setting your truck on fire. A wire that sparks when touching metal, is a positive feed.

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Went to the j/y and found a '96 R50. Picked a couple of interior clips, plugs, and various trinkets that were missing or broken on mine. Also yanked the rear sway bar off and reinstalled it on mine as I was an idiot and cut my original off. I'll probably leave this one on.

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Just to save you from breaking something, blowing a fuse, toasting a relay, or setting your truck on fire. A wire that sparks when touching metal, is a positive feed.

 

 

Please go into depth as to what this means. :]

 

I understand it has power..but..shouldn't it be connected to another wire?

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oh by the way, how hard is it to replace a front fender/quarter panel?

I tried to teach my friend how to drive stick and he promptly kissed someone's hand rail for their front stairs.

 

I tried to pull mine off when I fixed my power antenna, and ended up giving up on it. Most of the bolts were rusted solid, and the back of the panel was seam-sealed to the body. Not that it can't be done, it most certainly can, but I didn't feel like drilling out a bunch of sheared-off bolts/scraping off the sealer.

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oh by the way, how hard is it to replace a front fender/quarter panel?

I tried to teach my friend how to drive stick and he promptly kissed someone's hand rail for their front stairs.

 

I took out the bolts/screws and worked the sealant loose and they both came right off.....sure did make it easy for the trimming with the side grinder.....

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I defeated the evil metal sleeve that rusted itself to my front shock bolt with the help of my trusty sidekicks, sawzall and angle grinder. It was a victory we will not soon forget.

 

On that note, all 4 Pro Comp Es3000's are now in, and it rides great! It was neat that the 18 year old electronic shocks still worked, but the ride quality was crap.

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in the middle of a timing belt change. got the water pump and thermostat replaced today and the timing belt off. Glad I decided to replace everything right now as I found a crack in the timing belt.

 

Big hiccup so far was getting the harmonic balancer off. It had separated and shredded my belts, which was the original reason I'm changing everything. However I had a hell of a time getting it off. First tried a pulley remover, which didn't work. Then got a harmonic balancer remover tool, but it didn't have the right sized bolts. Then went and bought bolts but had one of them break off.

 

Luckily I learned you can still remove the harmonic balancer with only one bolt.

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Luckily I learned you can still remove the harmonic balancer with only one bolt.

 

 

Hehe ... misery loves company. I had to scrounge (spl?) for two bolts to pull mine off. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND REPLACING THE TENSIONER PULLEY while you are in the TB chamber. :thumbsdown:

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Nope... I have the sun roof... and it made for an interesting install...working on that part of my website now...

 

LOL do you not realize that the Xterra is a WD22, born after the WD21?

 

I know I know just giving you a hard time...

 

Mine has the sunroof too, that's why I will be flipping the center mount so I can move the rails further out away from the sunroof, pic's below with the rail sitting on the roof:

 

o6xipt.jpg

 

107p15e.jpg

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I left the X emblem on their for the S&G factor, plus I am a member on several Xterra forums and they will get a kick out of it...

 

All went well, took a few days of working on it when I could. I really like it! Thanks for your help brother!

 

 

 

Nope... I have the sun roof... and it made for an interesting install...working on that part of my website now...

 

LOL do you not realize that the Xterra is a WD22, born after the WD21?

 

I know I know just giving you a hard time...

It looks good even with the xterra emblem! I was just giving you a hard time. The emblem on mine was all faded so I sanded it off and repainted it.

James

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I understand it has power..but..shouldn't it be connected to another wire?

 

Probably. Good luck figuring out which one! I'd guess it's a power feed from the battery, but a + feed shouldn't be black. :shrug: It's definitely connected to positive if it's sparking to the body. It might be wired through something, so when you touch it to metal, you complete a circuit through a switch or a light or something...

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Ahardbody:

 

I rushed into it and did not even think of checking that! Now I wish I would have, it would have made for a cleaner install!!!

 

JamesRich:

 

Mine is in rough shape too...may end up stripping it off...

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Poured over M30, MPFI pathfinder and TBI pathfinder wire diagrams and FSM elctrical & fuel systems for several hours. I now have a list of ALL my remaining wires and learned about a few M30 features that I will be keeping (good thing I didn't cut any wires yet).

 

One neat feature is that the ECU's ability to shut off the A/C compressor clutch. This completely eliminates any parasitic the AC would cause when you are accelerating.

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Ahardbody... with that design would you still be able to utilize the X racks that go in between?

gonna be a priority of mine once I get an X rack and 4 door to put it on as well. Gonna need those cross bars...

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we installed the Warh hubs this morning, passenger side took about 1/2 hour, drivers side about 2 hrs I couldn't get the bolts to break loose and ended up cutting the heads off the bolts then prying the auto hub off then what was left of the bolts screwed out with no problem, oh well its all done and I feel better with the Warn hubs on the 88

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Do you mean the cross bars? If so yes, I don't have the bars mounted yet but I removed the center mount to see how it was attached and after seeing how it was attached I tried the mount positioned the way I have it in that picture. All I will need to do is install a riv-nut (nutsert) and re-attach the mount. The way I have the middle mount allows me to move the side rails further out closer to the roof body line and away from the sunroof, and the center mount won't hang over the edge. I also found that if I take the end off the crossbar I can make them wider by using the outer screw hole on the cross bar with the outer hole on the cross bar end. It has been so long since I was mocking them up I'm not sure of everything. Was having problems mocking it up myself as every time I moved one side rail the other one moved too. Need someone to give me a hand with them one day.

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Didn't have much time to work on it today. Pulled the spark plugs (not looking forward to putting #6 back in). Pulled the cam shaft pulleys and theres no leaking. Also replaced the bypass hose that goes above the thermostat. That was a major pain in the ass...I had to cut the old one off as it was largely adhered, and the new one didn't want to go on easy. Was going to try the boil trick but was short on time, turns out if you lube up the pipes and fold it in half it pops on pretty easy.

 

Thinking I'm going to go out in a few minutes to put the rear timing belt cover and cam shaft pulleys back on. Tomorrow after work I want to get the timing belt back on. Damned if working on it for an hour or two at a time doesn't make this take forever.

 

Question: When others have reinstalled the harmonic balancer did you use a harmonic balancer installation tool or just shove the new one on and tighten the crankshaft bolt? I know the risks of thread damage but curious what others have done. :friday:

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