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Everything posted by silverton

  1. With the engine being timed and you not knowing where the pistons are, I advise against forcing a valve open. I would use some sort of screw driver or something long and metal to pin point the noise before taking a cover off. Those numbers work out to 6.25% difference high to low, piston rings, head gasket, and valves are sealing plenty fine. You may try adam's suggestion of running some sort of engine cleaner through it, do a couple short interval oil changes if you go that route. Other wise take all the lifters out and give them a nice cleaning and an oil bath before putting them back in. My swapped vg33 makes a horrible clacking noise on cold start but goes away pretty quick. I'm also one of those people that doesn't put many miles on it, last oil change was in 2018, but it's been driven less than a thousand miles in that time. These VG's are quite indestructible.
  2. 1) I don't think there is a coolant passage in the intake manifold but it has been many moons since I had one off and could be wrong. 2) Use a stethoscope to hear if the injector is clicking. No clicks, stuck open/closed and you have other problems. 3) compression check it. this may not answer #4, but a leak down test would for certain. 4) oil and coolant would likely be mixing and that would be noticeable in the radiator. 5) replace it if true. 6) get this taken care of ASAP, any kind of fluid leak is bad 7) this could be why you have a strong fuel smell as the old fuel is not burning completely.
  3. bump from the grave, 16 years. daaaamn. okay. Depending on what has happened with the audio system in your truck, the tweeters may not work. The factory stereo did not have an amp. The amp was separate, and had a built in cross over for the tweeters. If that amp was bypassed for an aftermarket stereo install, the tweeters wont work.
  4. Sounds way too fast to be the bottom end. Those numbers are passable. You do not want more than 10% of a difference between the highest and lowest numbers. 150 to 165 is 9.5% so it's almost there. Even so, you won't notice much of a hit to performance or gas mileage. Once the battery is charged retest #4 and you may find it pump to 155 or 160. So far as I can see/hear, your bottom end is healthy but that top end has a nasty lifter tick. A mechanics stethoscope, or a long screw driver, could help you pinpoint which head you need to remove.
  5. You'll only run in to problems if you drive in puddles that would submerge the differential. the breather line is meant to keep water out and foreign objects out. I know on the WD21's it's a rubber vacuum line. buy some bulk and hook it back up.
  6. Damn no @!*%! I have replaced everything other than the body harness to try and fix my intermittent no crank. Sometimes I can jump it and it starts right up, other times, click click click. It helps if I bump a window down while cranking. The new starter I put on had another lead coming off of it, so I have a wire tied up in my positive loom at the battery for starting when I need to. Been too lazy to run a push button starter in to the cab, but this relay sounds right up my alley!
  7. The R50 is quite the different truck compared to a WD21.
  8. Since it only happens once warm, I'd look in to the O2 sensor or the coolant temp sensor. There is a test mode on the ECM for O2 sensor response. You can find a description online somewhere but the jist is once in the mode the two LED's should blink together, and do it rather rapidly. faster than you can click a bic pen. If it's slower than you can click, or the LEDs are not in sync, replace the O2 sensor. have you inspected the wiring for the knock sensor? Not usually something to cause a symptom like you're describing and OBD1 can be aggravatingly fuzzy when setting a code. It'll set the knock sensor but it'll be because the air flow sensor isn't reading right and causing the mixture to be off or some such BS.
  9. when you exceed 80% duty cycle, you need bigger injectors. running them so close to 100% is begging them to fail.
  10. Heck yeah! Who needs to run the vehicle in a closed garage when you can just remove the rear window and gas yourself out on your commute!
  11. Someone did do that with a two door. Looks pretty cool. I can't find it for the life of me, but I know he was in the PacNW.
  12. Just FYI, there is some sort of law out there that says what you're doing is illegal, and could cause you to fail a state inspection (if your state does physical inspections). It is a requirement for fog lamps to turn off if the low beams are turned off. EG, in the parking lamp or high beam position. Just a disclaimer, don't know if you know, but you do you yo! More light at night on the back roads is never a bad thing.
  13. Can you list the three part numbers of oil pumps you bought, so we can not have to go through the same trouble you did? RA has a rock (haha) solid return policy so it's not that big of a deal, it's just all the lost time of your project sitting there waiting...
  14. What do you plan on doing with the truck? These examples are just to give you an idea of what tread is good for what. City driving only with some dusty backroads? Check out the Michelin Defender. Gonna do some light to medium trails, possibly some snow? Check out the BFG All Terrain. Want to get in to something sloppier than that and still keep up with people going down those nasty rutted trails, you'll need the BFG Mud Terrain. Highway tires suck in dirt and deep trail snow. All Terrains are in good in snow, suck in mud. Mud Terrains are not that good in snow, but awesome in mud. My 33x10.50 BFG MT KM2's are about eight years old and I've put close to 60k on them with countless hard wheeling trips. I'd still head out right now no problem, but I will likely need to replace them in the next year.
  15. That transmission is plug and play in (W)D21's, and (W)D22's. And the early R50's probably, but don't quote me on that.
  16. That's the location of the factory alarm horn. Looks like it was busted off at the bracket.
  17. Just what people need, 70 pounds of crap on the roof! Many Pathfinders came with a tire carrier on the rear, the ones that did have beefy brackets in the sheet metal so it's not the easiest to put one on a truck that didn't come with it from the factory, but doable with motivation.
  18. This is due to the fact that your vehicle is four wheel drive. The rear wheels are directly driven by the engine, through the transmission and the transfer case, down the drive shaft and in to the rear differential and out to the hubs. Since these particular vehicles are part time four wheel drive, the front wheels must be allowed to disconnect from the rest of the system. When you engage the transfer case by way of the lever next to the transmission shifter on the inside of the vehicle, it moves components inside the transfer case to send power through the front drive shaft, in to the front differential which then turns the front hubs allowing the Automatic Free Running Hub to engage and power the front wheels. The wheel covers on the front have a hole in them as there is an optional OEM manual hub which need to be engaged by hand.
  19. FOD is the worst. I melted pistons a few different times in my subaru. Timing was right as a ported turbo had just come up when I needed one, hah! Love this build, but think you're(original turbo'er) crazy for turning the boost up enough to blow engines in a Pathfinder. Removing the engine is such a chore I couldn't imagine. I've had to do it in my subaru a few times but it's cake. As far as wideband, get an AEM. They're cheap and reliable and don't need to be calibrated. Come with a few different faceplates for whatever look you're going for as well. That fuel pressure sounds a bit high. At least if it's base pressure! How is fuel turned up while in boost? If it's a rising rate you need to consider that with your base fueling. Example: IF your rising rate has a 6:1 rise, every 1psi, your fuel pressure would rise 6psi. If your base pressure is 60psi, and you're running 12psi. 12*6 is 72 + your 60 base for a total of 132psi of fuel pressure. I know my subaru's injectors shut down around 90psi, they can't handle it. Just food for thought so you don't blow the next one!
  20. (W)D21 have the same mirrors. The manual mirrors look like they might possibly have a larger viewing angle but I never bothered; WD21 mirrors are optionally heated, I love mine. Never had an issue with rearward viability but if I did I would consider getting a backup camera before deciding to hack some other OEM mirror on to the side of my truck.
  21. Things get weird or just strange when all four wheels have power versus two.
  22. http://imgur.com/a/Tjgdx So maybe the crank broke and that took out the girdle, but either way, both are indeed very stout. Crazyness!
  23. the NA vg30's aren't as stout. They can still make some decent power though. I'm betting the crank girdle broke.
  24. Hard to tell how quickly something ramps up without knowing a time frame for the log. Though it is a bit odd how long it took to reach peak boost once it was WOT. AFR looks good throughout except for that "lean" spot around 1500'ish rpms.
  25. Your alignment is probably not perfect, and your center link is probably wore out. The two fronts are fighting for the "lead", so you get a wobble.

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