silverton

There is a little optic sensor under a metal disc inside the distributor. It's gone bad. I've had to replace a couple. One I drove to work just fine, then I couldn't go home.

One could weld new metal in place of the cleaned up hole as well. Just for funsies, put your heater on blast with all the windows closed, then put your hand over the exterior plastic trim behind the rear window. Make shift blow dryer!

Just to get this cat out of the bag, my current 95 pathfinder, with its previous owner, had reverse at one point in the day... later on it did not and it never came back or tried. 2000(1 maybe?)-2004 Xterra transmission are direct swap, plug and play and errrrrrthing. The only thing you might notice is first gear not quite being as peppy. It's a way taller gearing compared to the pathfinder. Loss of power, fluctuating idle.... my guess is there might be a vacuum leak somewhere. Try a smoke test or spray something flammable around the various vacuum lines and whatnot. I would not worry about the differences in the two ECU's. If you're looking to swap the engine, you keep your intake manifold and wiring harness so the ECU won't know the difference. If you swap the intake manifold and harness, then sure... swap the ECU as well. The only difference is federal and cali emissions. stupid EGR, bah... good riddance to you! Also, it's not just a diagnostic box, it's the whole shebang for running the truck, keep it safe! AT coolers are super easy too. Take the outlet line, iirc it's the one on the driver side, and plug it in to the "top" of the AT cooler, and the return line in to the "bottom". Easiest and safest place to mount it is between the AC condenser and the radiator. AC condensers make great boulder shields for important cooling devices! It's recommended to get a couple rubber caps to put on your factory radiator cooler, just in case you need it later on. Don't want it to get filled with dirt and crud. In conclusion, a vacuum leak could cause loss of power, fluctuating idle, and hard shifts. PS: If you don't have any welding skills, take it to an exhaust shop to have them rehang the exhaust. Mine just sits across the cross members cause I'm lazy!

The only VG that fits in our trucks without bottomless pockets is a single cam. You put those Z32 twin turbo dreams out of your head right now! a VG33E swaps over fairly easily, mostly Plug-N-Play. It's well documented. Look with your eyes, not your mouth. a handful of people have also put domestic v6's in our chassis, but it generally ends up not being worth the trouble.

Wow! You went straight to main engine bearings, that's crazy! If that's a knocking it's too late. even if you change them. Gotta inspect and polish the crank ya know! As far as your tippy tappy. It's almost guaranteed a lifter or a broken exhaust stud/manifold. As far as your inspection of the lifters, you're not wrong, I bet they all looked perfect. they're more than likely all good, even with the annoying tap. a collapsed lifter won't show any of that on visual inspection. They're hydraulic, they need oil pressure. With the engine in a running state, use a mechanics stethascope to pinpoint the bad one, or... Take all of them out and soak them in a nice clean Mobil1 bath (or your preferred oil). I'm sure the nice detergenty synthetic knocked some conventional oil crude loose. Not a big deal, just annoying. Holy cow! I just gotta say it again.... right to the engine bearings. Extreeeeeeme!

I'm pretty sure on my truck, the mast antenna had a standard plug on the end of it that went in to a subharness for the diversity BS. A factory mast antenna should have enough lead to plug in to a stereo by itself. But that's if memory serves me right from when I had to fix my PO's jiggery behind the stereo five years ago.

When you start it does the transmission show any codes? The light on the Eco/Power switch will stay solid for a few seconds upon starting it if not. If it starts to blink, count! A 4x4 transmission will work, you just don't need the transfer case. You'd have to separate it and swap the tail housing from your original transmission to it. And yes, an Xterra transmission is plug and play in our WD21 Pathfinders.

I came to link the same. The leads are way too long so just wrap them like the originals and snip the extra. Careful removing the little condoms on the original bulbs. They're generally brittle after 20 years of hot/cold cycles.

Lifting these trucks in any way creates extra strain on other suspension parts. But that can be said about any vehicle. I don't understand lifts. There's no extra ground clearance from it, what's the point? Save your CV's and put 33x10.50's on it. At least from that you'll have a better wheeler. I see these chevy's and ford's that are 12 feet in the air and it's just dumb. You can't get in and out of it easily anymore. well, maybe you can get out easier, gravity hurts though. Bigger profile in the front so you've just destroyed the already ****** fuel mileage, and if you want to tow anything you need a six foot drop hitch. Let alone put anything in the bed without using a front loader to get it up there.

There are no physical differences between the XE and SE, aside from SE's with sunroof's.

Dang! I had this exact problem in mine. But it would lock and unlock at random quite often, it once locked me out at a gas station! I had to wait an hour to get in, I made a spare right away. Anyway, I'm pretty sure it was the lock timer, I swapped it out for one from the junkyard, been working fine since.

Forum etiquette is lost on most. It's bad form to bump a thread that is eight years old with a post that's pretty close to irrelevant. Look through the Parts For Sale section, or post a thread in the Parts Wanted section.

The biggest can over cool and that's another set of problems. I think I have a 24000 gvwr on mine. which is still overkill. Depends on what you're doing with it, but definitely get a stacked plate style. http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/hayden-transaver-cooler.html

Uhhh... that's not how it works buddy. What you describe would mean there's no connection between the crank, rods, and pistons. as long as those are okay, a screwdriver down the spark bolt hole will make it move up and down regardless of belt condition. Wouldn't be able to turn the crank by hand if the belt was good though, so there is that. All you need to do is take the three screws out of the distributor cap, set it off to the side, and try to crank it. The rotor (which is now visible without the distributor cap) may or may not rotate. if it doesn't rotate, the belt broke and you likely need an engine.

Motor oil works too.

Hows the sunroof? Hows your t-case boot?

Falling on its face huh? That sucks. I'd inspect the MAF wiring (there is a subharness you can buy from Nissan that adds a ground for the sensor) and sensor. Any codes stored in the ECU? Can usually get you close to a proper diagnosis.

More than likely someone didn't hook up the memory wire of the stereo. Getting in there is easy enough, I'd give you instructions but you have a square dash truck so I'm not familiar. On the round dash trucks there are two screws going vertical below the vents/buttons, and from there you just gotta pull the trim piece out, only clips beyond those two screws. But like I said, your truck might be different. from there the stereo is just bolted to the truck with a bracket. take those out and the whole assembly comes out and you can inspect the wiring.

If the only thing wrong with it is not passing smog, you should dump 200-300$ in to it to make it pass smog, then sell it for a possible profit.

Hah. Yeah, that's actually a factory Nissan sub harness for the MAF on our WD21. Spared no expense eh??? The one I have on my truck looks only slightly less janky and it's only a year old. Yours looks like it's been there for a looooonnnnngggggg minute. At any rate, what the others have been saying is true. Our trucks have an issue with MAF grounding on the factory harness. So they made that lovely jumper harness with an extra long ground wire so you can put it where ever you want. I have mine grounding to the intake manifold in the same spot as some other sensors ground.

Dang, you're already back on the road?? My poor subaru has only been mobile two weeks out of the last 16 months.

$900 and he's doing the swap for you?? SOLD! Oh wait, you already did the hard part. Pulling the front diff. At any rate, $900 still sounds like a steal to me. See if you can hear it run first though.

What I don't understand is that you have two of those things essentially. The one end folds in on itself so you can insert it in to the stripped drain plug hole, and then the other end has a rubber plug with a handle to be able to screw it tight. I've needed to use one before unfortunately. Did your truck have a proper drain plug in it, or did it have one of those things pictured? Seems to me like some janky work was done to the truck at some point So the one is missing the plug, and the other one is missing the stud and plug.

You can check codes by turning the dial on the ECU all the way clockwise until you see the lights blink three times, then turn it back to where it was. codes will start blinking shortly after, red light for the first digit, green light for the second digit. 55 is all clear! If you go from mode 3 to mode 4 the codes will clear if there are any. Turn the knob clockwise again, wait for the lights to blink 4 times and turn it back. You have entered mode 4 which is where the O2 diagnostics begin. Mode 4 makes sure it works and has output for both open and closed loop functionality. Entering Mode 5 checks that it's reading the mixture properly. Here it can tell you if it's more than 5% out of spec. But what you want is for both the red and green lights to blink in unison rapidly. Reference pages 36 and 37 in the EC section of the FSM for more information. Page 37 contains the decoder for the CEL blinky lights.

WOW!!! I'm not sure if it's worth putting a new pump on that engine if there is metal wrapped around the crank where the main seal goes. Metal in the oil goes through rod and main journals. Then the bearings get scored, and it's only a matter of time before it's telling you a knock knock joke. I'm guessing with the oil pump gears broken like that, that's what that clattering was!!, that you ran the engine with low to no oil pressure on more than one occasion. The bearings don't like that. My bet is you're in for a rebuilt short block at the very least. May as well put a 3.3 in it!