silverton

Damn, that Pathy linked in omaha is almost a spitting image/mods. This is basically what the truck looked like, last time it was on the road under it's own power:

front and rear factory size is 5x7. 6x9's can be made to fit with minor modifications.

The only thing I can recommend is to NOT use Amsoil. I keep meaning to drain mine to refill with conventional, but I just can't justify throwing $100 worth of fluid away. But I guess that's cheaper than buying another transmission...

your MAP sensor read out should definitely be changing. Have you done a test on the components to make sure they're actually good? Just because new, doesn't mean functional.

I think I had heard from someone that R50 seats work.

my VG33 makes the oil light stays on for quite some time on cold starts too, didn't have an issue with the 30. granted I only start it once every week or two, but I think it might just be that it's using the VG30 pressure location which is on the opposite side of the block as the oil filter. Not sure if that matters, but that's my assumption.

So... you drove in to a ditch? I'm a bit confused.

This should be seen as common knowledge to most anyone. Especially a place that's in business selling used transmissions. If you're meeting joe blow off the street and it doesn't have a torque converter with it, just walk away!

Basically what is happening in gears 1, 2, and 3 is the torque converter is filled with fluid and while you're moving along there is always a tiny difference in engine speed, and transmission speed because in those gears the engine and transmission are never spinning at exactly the same rate because they are not physically connected. That's what the transmission fluid is for, it makes that connection by way of fluid transfer. Get enough thick fluid spinning between two turbines in a housing and you eventually get them spinning rather close to the same speed. Now what Over Drive does, and this is controlled electronically, is take the fluid transfer business and throws it out the window. in Over Drive your engine and transmission are connected and spinning at exactly the same speed, which is why there is only a 200-300rpm drop. So basically gears 1,2,3 are like slipping the clutch in a manual transmission with your big toe. And in OD the "clutch" is disengaged fully. This is why most people despise automatics, and why most automatic vehicles with some sort of exhaust system sound very blah, or just have a flat note. Someone on here figured out a way to lock the torque converter, or engage O/D in every gear manually. If you leave O/D engaged it will kill the engine if you come to a stop, just like in a manual transmission.

Just to jump in here, you should be filling the transfer case with gear oil. Also, sickly purple? Sounds like someone might have put Royal Purple in there at some point. Not sure if ATF or gear oil would turn purple from age.

any of those will be exactly the same. But if you do happen to find one from a supercharged truck, you will need the flex plate as well.

Yeah, the torque converter locking does not count as half a gear. Three speed automatic, with an O/D, AND a locking torque converter. But I'm with Adam, why it's being argued is silly. The only reason I'm posting is, to again, state that it is a three speed auto with over drive. It is NOT a 4.5 speed transmission, that would be dumb.

In actuality, it's a three speed with Over Drive.

Since you're outside of the United States, we need to make sure that the engine in your friends WD is a VG30? If the replacement transmissions are coming out of VG33 equipped vehicles than it should work. If you're swapping automatic to automatic, get the 2002 transmission as its stronger. If you're doing 5spd to 5spd, not much is known about getting a newer model transmission.

flushing is only necessary if you don't have access to good quality oil. I use Mobil1 and my engines always end up looking like they're brand new internally. If you do want to use a detergent for cleaning sludge you may have built up, replace .5 quart of oil, with .5 quart of ATF, then change oil in 500 miles. If you have an oil filter cutter you can watch the process of the cleaning.

For something that he would have to design by hand, since I'm sure it hasn't been done before. A quick Google search says not. Now, I just learned that the VE30DE was chain driven, this was the "modified" VG30DE that they added more angle to the heads so that it would fit under the hood of a 4 year range of the Maxima. But chain driven motors need the chain lubricated at all times. So there's oil pumped in to the timing covers essentially. So $300 for something that he MIGHT sell 5 of. Not a bad price.

Holy moly! That's a whole lot of lift and wheel. My recommendation, make new sway bar end links for the rear, ideally the bar is level with the ground.

I'm with James. Haven't heard of a fan clutch "bearing" failing to where the fan becomes loose. My bet is that it's your water pump failing.

Yeah, except the round tooth belt started about midway through 1993... Should have bought a Nissan belt, and to be honest, with how crucial the timing belt is on these motors, I wouldn't trust any other brand.

When you get the rear lifted the front will appear even higher. Rake kind of masks actual ride height when the vehicle isn't statically level.

Mostly because much information is not needed, aside from the fact that it needs to be from a 2000-2004 Xterra. It's plug and play so no need for a write up.

It is dyno proven that a 1998 Impreza 2.5RS gains exactly 15whp with an equal length header, high flow cat, and 2.5" exhaust.

That's the one you want, get it!

Your ECU is going to be expecting those butterfly valves. without them you will most likely have driveability issues.

Use your original manifolds and you won't have a problem.