Canadian

Hi guys, Im having some trouble with my truck throwing a P0505 IACV code, seems my iacv is seized, so I went to the junkyard and pulled the IACV from the only other 3.5l they had in the yard, and it to seems seized, is there a way to manually power them to ensure operation? Anyways I installed the used part on my truck and the code went away, but my truck wont take to the idle relearn procedure, it idles @ nearly 1600rpm and when I get to the step in the relearn procedure without consult 2 machine where it says to disconnect the brown TPS connector and plug it in within 5 seconds the trucks idle increases even higher to about 2200rpm and it hits some sort of soft rev limiter and just bounces off of that repetitively. As far as I can tell Im doing the test to the letter. TPS is confirmed calibrated, PCV is less than 10k old with new OEM part, truck is warm battery voltage good. So Im almost sure the junkyard IACV may be junk aswell (dunno how long that truck has been in the yard) So Im looking at aftermarket IACV's, and they dont sell them with just the IACV sensor, how come? Why do they all come with the piece of cast it bolts to? Ive never removed my cast piece and always just removed the sensor itself, same with the one I pulled from the yard. Is it needed? Its surely driving up the price. Any recommendation on what to try here? Cheers!

The battery seemed low in the video because it definetely was, I had attempted starting way to many times before the tow truck showed up and just made the video when it was dropped off. Appreciate the info on the spark test, that will be valueable for future knowledge. It was mighty cold up here in canada today but I got the truck running. It ended up being the crank position sensor. My local pick n pull junkyard was having a $50 all you can carry sale so I found the only VQ35 engine in the yard and picked most of the sensors/ iacv/ tps. I tried starting the truck last night and it wouldnt fire, and I installed the CPS first thing this morning and she started right up. Was a shot in the dark just because I had the spare and read alot about it causing the same symptoms I was having. got lucky I suppose. Just in time as we got our first snowfall today

I unbolted and removed #1 coil and spark plug, keeping the spark plug pressed up in the coil, and then held the spark plug end a mm away from the valve cover and had a helper crank the engine and witnessed zero spark/arch

I appreciate the info greatly. I have a bit of good news, I was slightly set in my mind that my IACV took out the PCM as I read quite a few posts on this happening in nissan/infiniti vq engines. I inquired with a seller on ebay that offerred the service specifically for our vehicles and this problem, he said when I removed the ecu to open the case and it would be obvious something has gone wrong, he even sent a few sample pics and all had the same resistor/cap explode inside the ecu. I openned mine up just now after a fight on my back in the rain to remove it and mine is sparkling new inside, no damage. So good new, but bads news is I still dont know whats wrong. I honestly admit, after downloading the fsm last night, it seems over my head on the language they use, the signage, seemed daunting to me to troubleshoot my current problem, even your post mechanicalbaron about checking for start signal seems a little out of my knowledge base, Ive rebuilt newer car engines completely, and am sound mechanically, but these FSM's seem impossible to read without a degree. Where would the best place to start be for me after now knowing I have no spark to #1 and #3 coil, aswell as confirming I am getting proper fuel pressure to the fuel rail.

I did pull 2 coils and spark plugs today to check for spark, they werent soaked, but definetely smelled of fuel. I confirmed I am not getting a spark at the 2 coils I checked. I also used my code reader in live data to confirm the ecu is showing 200rpm while cranking the car so to me that would show the crank position sensor registerring. There are still no codes. If the ecu was somehow all of the sudden taken out by my iacv code Ive had for years, is this even the condition it would cause? (no spark) I am curious if I am able to even get a ecu from ebay/junkyard or is that openning a whole new can of worms with the keys and incompatible computers and such. Is tehre a way to tell which ECU may be fried, I feel there are a few ECU's on this truck, Ive yet to ever see any of them during the years Ive had it

I don't recall ever seeing any lights other than what is shown in the video, 99% sure. im the person that wont take it to a mechanic, Im new to this town aswell, but paying someone $100/hour to diagnose and hopefully not bend me over isn't in my new home owner budget, the truck will sit if it came to that, hoping to avoid this obviously, this is my winter baby

Ya its definitely not the battery shes cranking good, to verify spark though, are you aloud to put a spark plug in the coil pack and ground it out while cranking the same as a distributor car? The crank sensor was replaced 2 years ago with the new engine with an OEM piece, I did try my spare key aswell. no remote start, never one installed. Im worried it may be a blown ecu, not sure that can be diagnosed in my driveway though If Im not getting spark, where does that leave me?

Hey guys, first time Ive ever had this issue, came out of work and my car wont start, just cranks and crank and cranks but no engine start or even attempt to fire. I veryfied I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail as I have an aftermarket gauge installed form when I put this reman engine in 2 years ago. Here is a video of what is happening I tried disconnecting the battery for 20 min, and the car is now sitting on a battery charger. Im hoping to check spark and possibly timing if possible next, can you check spark on a coil pack car like a traditional car with a distributor/spark plug? I wasnt sure so I didnt want to try without verifying. One thing I think I should mention is the car throws a P0505 idle air control valve error, and has for the last 4 years, it currently has no stored codes though. But Ive read to fix teh IACV you have to repair/replace a computer aswell, but the problem has been there for years, I just have to tap the gas when starting it as it hasnt had a high cold start idle since it threw P0505 so long ago. I do have a code reader with a live data function, ive actually never used it, but maybe that could shed some useful information? Anything specific I should be watching? I got the car towed home, and I will disconnect the battery overnight while I go to work, but Im doubtful that is going to help. Im open to all suggestions and will do them promptly. Thanks for the help!

if you remove and disconnect the door switches it tricks the truck into thinking there closed? I went around the car again today, aswell as manually did the hatch and hatch glass with a screwdriver but the light still never flickered or went out open closed The dome light is most definetely aftermarket aswell, its on a cheap looking toggle switch and just an LED bar type thing, there no 3 position switch or wiring other than positive/ground, although Im unsure where its getting its positive from, presumably one of the old dome light wires

Hey guys, I bought/traded for a 2001.5, very nice and clean car, literally just had a used engine and transmission put into it by the previous owner who I know, the truck has an issue where the battery seems to drain very fast though, within a day it will be dead. I notice the door ajar light is on though, even though all doors and trunk are closed. I even walked around the car openning one door at a time and manually pressing all the door sensors to closed and the light never went off, the truck does not have one of these sensors as far as I can see though, so maybe its something back there. I also noticed the interior light doesnt come on when you open a door, but I figure that must have something to do with the door ajar light, the car also has an aftermarket "middle" light about the back seats, it an LED bar manually operated by a switch, but I just keep it off, im not sure if anything or what was in that spot from the factory, but id imagine its the front overhead console that should be lighting up... If I could get a little help diagnosing this Id appreciate it alot, it seems to be the only problem with this beautiful truck. I have downloaded the FSM for the year and model, but honestly cant understand much of the language or diagrams, there just beyond my knowledge Thanks so much!

Truck threw a P0175 today (bank to rich) aswell as the P1110 code. Possibly time to change 02 sensors aswell?

Thanks yes I have read almost every thread involved with this code. To me because I have swapped sensors and the problem didnt jump it leaves solenoid or wiring as a possible issue. Wiring very well could be the issue as this truck definetely has some quirks in the wiring, but the engine harness itself is solid (I gave it a very good inspection when I swapped engines, and reloomed and taped nearly both entire harnesses)

So I swapped the cam sensors on the engine, flipped passenger over to drivers side etc, hoping for the code to follow and jump sides. But even after reseting the ecu and driving to work and home, P1110 came back. Which would point to solenoid to me. But what are the odds the solenoid would be bad on BOTH engines Ive had installed in this truck? Could it be something else like wiring/ecm?

Just an FYI, we dont have 4 cats, the second canisters downstream are resonators, hence why they are only $100 each I went with the walker replacement exhaust, including both front resonators, rear resonator, and rear muffler, it was about $400

The driveshaft can be removed pretty easily, only about 10 bolts I believe Does the truck not run?