Canadian

Hi guys, Im having some trouble with my truck throwing a P0505 IACV code, seems my iacv is seized, so I went to the junkyard and pulled the IACV from the only other 3.5l they had in the yard, and it to seems seized, is there a way to manually power them to ensure operation? Anyways I installed the used part on my truck and the code went away, but my truck wont take to the idle relearn procedure, it idles @ nearly 1600rpm and when I get to the step in the relearn procedure without consult 2 machine where it says to disconnect the brown TPS connector and plug it in within 5 seconds the trucks idle increases even higher to about 2200rpm and it hits some sort of soft rev limiter and just bounces off of that repetitively. As far as I can tell Im doing the test to the letter. TPS is confirmed calibrated, PCV is less than 10k old with new OEM part, truck is warm battery voltage good. So Im almost sure the junkyard IACV may be junk aswell (dunno how long that truck has been in the yard) So Im looking at aftermarket IACV's, and they dont sell them with just the IACV sensor, how come? Why do they all come with the piece of cast it bolts to? Ive never removed my cast piece and always just removed the sensor itself, same with the one I pulled from the yard. Is it needed? Its surely driving up the price. Any recommendation on what to try here? Cheers!

The battery seemed low in the video because it definetely was, I had attempted starting way to many times before the tow truck showed up and just made the video when it was dropped off. Appreciate the info on the spark test, that will be valueable for future knowledge. It was mighty cold up here in canada today but I got the truck running. It ended up being the crank position sensor. My local pick n pull junkyard was having a $50 all you can carry sale so I found the only VQ35 engine in the yard and picked most of the sensors/ iacv/ tps. I tried starting the truck last night and it wouldnt fire, and I installed the CPS first thing this morning and she started right up. Was a shot in the dark just because I had the spare and read alot about it causing the same symptoms I was having. got lucky I suppose. Just in time as we got our first snowfall today

I unbolted and removed #1 coil and spark plug, keeping the spark plug pressed up in the coil, and then held the spark plug end a mm away from the valve cover and had a helper crank the engine and witnessed zero spark/arch

I appreciate the info greatly. I have a bit of good news, I was slightly set in my mind that my IACV took out the PCM as I read quite a few posts on this happening in nissan/infiniti vq engines. I inquired with a seller on ebay that offerred the service specifically for our vehicles and this problem, he said when I removed the ecu to open the case and it would be obvious something has gone wrong, he even sent a few sample pics and all had the same resistor/cap explode inside the ecu. I openned mine up just now after a fight on my back in the rain to remove it and mine is sparkling new inside, no damage. So good new, but bads news is I still dont know whats wrong. I honestly admit, after downloading the fsm last night, it seems over my head on the language they use, the signage, seemed daunting to me to troubleshoot my current problem, even your post mechanicalbaron about checking for start signal seems a little out of my knowledge base, Ive rebuilt newer car engines completely, and am sound mechanically, but these FSM's seem impossible to read without a degree. Where would the best place to start be for me after now knowing I have no spark to #1 and #3 coil, aswell as confirming I am getting proper fuel pressure to the fuel rail.

I did pull 2 coils and spark plugs today to check for spark, they werent soaked, but definetely smelled of fuel. I confirmed I am not getting a spark at the 2 coils I checked. I also used my code reader in live data to confirm the ecu is showing 200rpm while cranking the car so to me that would show the crank position sensor registerring. There are still no codes. If the ecu was somehow all of the sudden taken out by my iacv code Ive had for years, is this even the condition it would cause? (no spark) I am curious if I am able to even get a ecu from ebay/junkyard or is that openning a whole new can of worms with the keys and incompatible computers and such. Is tehre a way to tell which ECU may be fried, I feel there are a few ECU's on this truck, Ive yet to ever see any of them during the years Ive had it

I don't recall ever seeing any lights other than what is shown in the video, 99% sure. im the person that wont take it to a mechanic, Im new to this town aswell, but paying someone $100/hour to diagnose and hopefully not bend me over isn't in my new home owner budget, the truck will sit if it came to that, hoping to avoid this obviously, this is my winter baby

Ya its definitely not the battery shes cranking good, to verify spark though, are you aloud to put a spark plug in the coil pack and ground it out while cranking the same as a distributor car? The crank sensor was replaced 2 years ago with the new engine with an OEM piece, I did try my spare key aswell. no remote start, never one installed. Im worried it may be a blown ecu, not sure that can be diagnosed in my driveway though If Im not getting spark, where does that leave me?

Hey guys, first time Ive ever had this issue, came out of work and my car wont start, just cranks and crank and cranks but no engine start or even attempt to fire. I veryfied I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail as I have an aftermarket gauge installed form when I put this reman engine in 2 years ago. Here is a video of what is happening I tried disconnecting the battery for 20 min, and the car is now sitting on a battery charger. Im hoping to check spark and possibly timing if possible next, can you check spark on a coil pack car like a traditional car with a distributor/spark plug? I wasnt sure so I didnt want to try without verifying. One thing I think I should mention is the car throws a P0505 idle air control valve error, and has for the last 4 years, it currently has no stored codes though. But Ive read to fix teh IACV you have to repair/replace a computer aswell, but the problem has been there for years, I just have to tap the gas when starting it as it hasnt had a high cold start idle since it threw P0505 so long ago. I do have a code reader with a live data function, ive actually never used it, but maybe that could shed some useful information? Anything specific I should be watching? I got the car towed home, and I will disconnect the battery overnight while I go to work, but Im doubtful that is going to help. Im open to all suggestions and will do them promptly. Thanks for the help!

if you remove and disconnect the door switches it tricks the truck into thinking there closed? I went around the car again today, aswell as manually did the hatch and hatch glass with a screwdriver but the light still never flickered or went out open closed The dome light is most definetely aftermarket aswell, its on a cheap looking toggle switch and just an LED bar type thing, there no 3 position switch or wiring other than positive/ground, although Im unsure where its getting its positive from, presumably one of the old dome light wires

Hey guys, I bought/traded for a 2001.5, very nice and clean car, literally just had a used engine and transmission put into it by the previous owner who I know, the truck has an issue where the battery seems to drain very fast though, within a day it will be dead. I notice the door ajar light is on though, even though all doors and trunk are closed. I even walked around the car openning one door at a time and manually pressing all the door sensors to closed and the light never went off, the truck does not have one of these sensors as far as I can see though, so maybe its something back there. I also noticed the interior light doesnt come on when you open a door, but I figure that must have something to do with the door ajar light, the car also has an aftermarket "middle" light about the back seats, it an LED bar manually operated by a switch, but I just keep it off, im not sure if anything or what was in that spot from the factory, but id imagine its the front overhead console that should be lighting up... If I could get a little help diagnosing this Id appreciate it alot, it seems to be the only problem with this beautiful truck. I have downloaded the FSM for the year and model, but honestly cant understand much of the language or diagrams, there just beyond my knowledge Thanks so much!

Truck threw a P0175 today (bank to rich) aswell as the P1110 code. Possibly time to change 02 sensors aswell?

Thanks yes I have read almost every thread involved with this code. To me because I have swapped sensors and the problem didnt jump it leaves solenoid or wiring as a possible issue. Wiring very well could be the issue as this truck definetely has some quirks in the wiring, but the engine harness itself is solid (I gave it a very good inspection when I swapped engines, and reloomed and taped nearly both entire harnesses)

So I swapped the cam sensors on the engine, flipped passenger over to drivers side etc, hoping for the code to follow and jump sides. But even after reseting the ecu and driving to work and home, P1110 came back. Which would point to solenoid to me. But what are the odds the solenoid would be bad on BOTH engines Ive had installed in this truck? Could it be something else like wiring/ecm?

Just an FYI, we dont have 4 cats, the second canisters downstream are resonators, hence why they are only $100 each I went with the walker replacement exhaust, including both front resonators, rear resonator, and rear muffler, it was about $400

The driveshaft can be removed pretty easily, only about 10 bolts I believe Does the truck not run?

Hey guys, If you recall last winter I overheated my motor and decided to replace it with a low mileage VQ35de from a japanese engine importer. The previous engine used to throw a P1110 and I never did diagnose it further, but I changed the cam sensors and the other codes I had went away. I then swapped in this low mileage engine and since this is my winter car I havent dirven the truck for more than a minute til now, and I am noticing a reoccuring (and my only code) which is P1110, it comes on after a few starts and short drives and comes on while driving. Luckily I kept all the sensors and solenoids off of the old engine, but they may not help as I had the code on that engine aswell? I have a bag of parts to swap around though if that can be any help. The onlythread I could find with a solution to this problem, it ended up being his cam sensors, but Im thinking theres a chance mine may be solenoid, anyway to diagnose? Quote: Problem Solved! Solution: the other sensor was bad but it was misreading false timing advance 100% of the time so the computer threw the P1110 code instead of a P1145 or P1140. Short Story, I think my dealer is a joke and my Pathfinder is now running like a champ! Since my last post I changed my oil and planned on doing a few 1,000 mile interval oil changes to hopefully break up the "Oil Sludge" my dealer assured me was the issue. I didn't expect anything immediate to happen and nothing did. A few days later I got a little impatient and started to dig a little deeper. I was almost ready to remove the front access panels in front of the "sludged up cam gear" and send some compressed air through the cam gear solenoid. However, I got suspicious on how much sludge was actually in my motor. I ended up removing the two M6 bolts holding in the oil filler neck so I could get a straight shot view of my valve train. It was spotless, no sludge build up whatsoever. I then thought I should try swapping the sensors again (remember I have one brand new on I put on when I first made this thread and one older one (maybe not original since it didn't match the other side that I replaced, more on that below*)) I took it for a test spin and it again threw a code but NOT for P1110 like it had been for weeks and it had been when the dealer "diagnosed" it. Instead it threw a P1135 code. THE PROBLEM FOLLOWED THE SENSOR! Hurray! in less than 2 minutes I had a new sensor swapped back in so that I have two new sensors and SES light has been off ever since! Thanks again for all the help and suggestions and thanks Howie for suggesting to buy two sensors at one time, saved me a lot of grief. I wish I had just put in both from the beginning. Moral of the story is that those Cam Shaft Sensors can cause P1145 & P1140 OR P1110 or P1135. Anyways, Im all ears on how to solve this, my inspection sticker is due and a CEL is a no - no, Im having a hard time even understanding which side of the engine P1110 is for Cheers!

Definetely need more than one 12" fan for our cars I run 2 12's with no shroud and have no issues

I didnt get offended. I just thought it was odd you ASSumed I didnt replace the o-rings, and I said it discharged and you again ASSumed I had some big obvious leak from those o-rings, when it was simply the discharge from the valve We dont have harbor freight here, buying a vacuum pump isnt an option, is it necessary?

I did replace the o-rings. Why are you assuming I did not Peteypath? The fluid that was discharged was not from a leak, it was from the discharge valve on the backside of the compressor, Im assuming pressure became to high or whatever the safety precautions are built into the compressor causing it to discharge. I only tried one can of the duracool since its what I had. I expect I will need to buy 2-3 cans when i actually try and fill it, they sell a few different types of fill aswell, leak seak, oils, general refrigerant. Id love any DIY help i can get, as adam said, in canada they charge a few hundred + for this service. Since I already have the install valve/gauge, and this is my winter beater/boat hauler, Im trying to keep the cost low. Cheers

Hey guys, I had my a/c compressor lines disconnected and had the compressor removed for a number of days doing my engine swap (2001 with VQ35de engine), so I assumed I lost my "charge" in the process. So today since I had a can of Duracool laying around and I have the fill tool/gauge from previously recharging the system I decided to put it in. I followed this video exactly, skip to 1:30 All seemed to be going well, the system took in the contents of the can, the a/c started blowing pretty cold, and then the video says the rev the engine and hold rpm to circulate, as soon as i did that, I hit about 1600rpm and the compressor made a weird noise and made a discharge of compressed air noise. I thought that was odd, tried revving again, it discharged again, I let the rpms fall and noticed the air wasnt blowing cold anymore. Looked under the car, and sure enough, some green fluid had purged onto the floor. Im not to worried about losing the can of fluid, as its been in the garage some years, but Id still like to fill this system and not have it discharge on me, should I just avoid revving the engine? All seemed well before I did that, but obviously if I were to be driving the truck the rpms would rise. What do you guys suggest?

maybe I do, sc-19 of the FSM states "With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied - through 10A fuse [No. 8, located in the fuse block (J/B)] - to combination meter terminal 12 for the charge warning lamp. Ground is supplied to terminal 43 of the combination meter through terminal L of the alternator. With power and ground supplied, the charge warning lamp will illuminate. When the alternator is providing sufficient voltage with the engine running, the ground is opened and the charge warning lamp will go off. If the charge warning lamp illuminates with the engine running, a fault is indicated." Does that mean my ignition switch is possibly shorting with the key out? As my light is on with no key even in the ignition"

I found that if I pull the ALT fuse underhood the light will go off If I understood how to read a proper wiring diagram I would probably have a clue what that meant

So I lost some voltage in the battery over the course of the night. So I disconnected the battery, light goes off (i think that might be obvious to some) So then I disconnected the alternator plastic plug connector aswell as the power wire coming off of the alternator output post (secured it away from grounding) and then reconnected the battery, and the battery light is still on in the dash. The only thing left connected to the alternator is the ground cable held by the small 6mm screw. All wiring I can see looks perfect to, nothing pinched, everything secure, I also took my battery grounds off and gave them a good sanding to shiny metal, light still on.

Hey guys, I just finished up my engine swap in my 2001.5. Everything worked out great, literally started first crank and ran smooth, idles a little low but I figure I just have to do some relearn procedures. No check engine lights. I noticed that when I turned the engine off, and turned the key backwards, the battery light popped on, turn the key to where the fuel pump primes, and it goes off and stays off even with the engine running. But if your turn the key back, or even pull it out of the ignition, the battery light remains lit. I checked battery voltage and it is slightly low, but resting @ 12.1 volts, with the car running its 14.2, so the alternator is working.... Has anyone ever heard of this before? Or does it point to anything? As far as I can tell everything is connected good and tight and in the correct spot, the ONLY thing I had to change wiring wise during this engine swap was I had to solder on a new alternator plug because I destroyed mine removing it. I simply went to the junkyard and cut the plug and pigtail off an older pathfinder with 3.3 (my cars a 3.5L), cut my plug off at the end, and solderred the 3 wires together. The wire colors were the same, and the physical plug was the same and clicked right into my alternator, and my solderring is perfect. Thats the only thing I can think of that would somehow cause this, at the light was not on before the swap, maybe the wires go to different pins on the alternator on the 3.3L? I shouldve confirmed that Any suggestions where to start?

Im curious, were new valve cover gaskets not installed during the rebuild? And for the crossover tube, were new gaskets used aswell? Im curious how it would leak so soon, I heard you cant replace those gaskets without removing the transmission to gain access to the bolts, how did you manage?