Canadian

hey guys, big problemo happened today while I was at the store in my 2001 with the 3.5L I was inside my little auto store picking up a part for my other car, left the car running since I was supposed to just grab and go, well I ended up waiting 20 min, left the car running (ended up forgetting damnit) and one of the clerks eventually saw my car smoking so i ran out, seen a HUGE HUGE HUGE ploom of smoke coming from the engine, I honestly thought it was on fire as I was running over until I seen the huge coolant leak. I took the keys out, took note that the temp gauge was still under half. Popped the hood and the whole engine was coolant sprayed. Noticed that the top of my 3 year old ebayradiator had POPPED IN HALF!! The whole top section seperated from the core. I started filling it with water and could hear it leaking out the back of the engine near the middle of the car. Towed it home, wasnt going anywhere. I did check both the oil and trans fluid, both looked good so I dont believe it got to the point of headgasket failure. Just had the front end up on jackstands, and when pouring water into the rad to try and see where it was leaking from, it is very difficult to see, but the start point I could see the water was rolling off of the surface where the head meets the block, the block is a little wider at that point so all I can see from the bottom is a little waterfall. Not sure where its originating from. Any pointers for me here guys? Ive had the plenums off to do the power valve screws, but this leak almost seems below that point, and possibly maybe even unreachable in my driveway, so cramped between the firewall and engine, work seems very difficult if possible, most likely blind. What would be leaking? I orderred a rad and it should be at the parts store in the AM, but Im wonderring where to go from here.

That stuff is to rubbery and rubs off easily and doesnt have an appealing look to it. We cant get rustoleum gallons in Canada that I know of, I was hoping for an aerosol option that actually worked

I got the front end jacked up to look at the PNP switch and its connector, and wow is is ever tight there. Cant see the connectors at all, couldnt reach them if I wanted to. This problem is over my head. Now here lies the problem, who do I enlist to fix it for me? The car is a little modified, so Im not sure if that will shy shops away or cause problems.It has an AGM battery under the hood, with an unconventional "threaded" top terminal. And also multiple large gauge grounds in and to different places than OEM, obviously there upgrades for the stereo though. It has 2 extra Optima batteries in the trunk for my stereo, so there is 0 gauge fused power wires going to the front and back aswell. Electric fans deleted the factory thermal clutch fan. Im not positive my transmission needs to be replaced at this point. So in that sence I think an Infiniti dealership would serve me well (would nissan dealership touch it?) as they could do a good diagnostic and probably pinpoint the problem accurately, as they built the car right But charge me $125 and hour...? And take 9 hours to change a shift solenoid, oem parts and labour add up quick I can also try a well reviewed local transmission shop, but I fear they may not be specialized enough to diagnose and may be quick to sell me a complete transmission overhaul for $2,000, or is a transmission shop generally capable of maybe saving you some money... I think i need to hire someone at this point though, I could always purchase a used low mileage tranny off ebay for about $600, pay someone $4-500 to install it. But thats a crapshoot with a lot of chance, hoping its something internally damaged

What product can you buy for at home use? I really need some on my rear bumper

No its definetely not capable of monitoring that.

NVM AT-102 and 103 have good descriptions, but a little vaugue since Im not staring at it I guess. Come daybreak thats my starting point. Would love any advice people might have on this problem Were did third and fourth disappear to!

Does anyone have a good pic of the PNP switch? Id like to rule that out but honestly cant even find its location or a way to check/adjust it.

I love my e-fan conversion, clears up so much room on the front of the engine, and freeing up a pony or two cant hurt. I bought an adjustable on/off kit from Summit for about $45. I have it set 195 on/185 off Much quieter than the stock mammoth, and you wont loose any fingers tinkerring around the engine with it running

Im not going to say I understand the FSM, because I really dont. But shift solenoid B comes up ALOT in the diagnosis of P0744. I see no real lamens diagrams of how to really access or test it though. Im not sure if I should buy a used trans for $500 and hope I can change it myself. Or if this transmission is worth opening and replacing parts. Ive obviously never seen the inside of an automatic transmission. Ive rebuilt Honda engines before, but they dont seem near as complicated or electric dependant I also dont want to depend on the code P0744 so much as it only triggerred once, and hasnt again, should I drive around in second gear for a period of time to see what errors are thrown or am I just causing more damage that way

So i connected the battery this morning after nearly 2 days, started the truck up and it died, started again with a little throttle and it was idling real low. 525 rpm according to my ultragauge, took it for a spin and it still wasnt shifting. Idle fully warmed set at about 600rpm, so it looks like I may have to do the idle air relearn procedure. One thing I should mention about the shifting, when the fluid is cold, and the gear selector in D while driving, the trans will shift 1-2 no problem, but once the fluid is warmed and you accelerate from a stop it is very hesitant to even shift into second gear. But if you move the gear selector to D2 while slowly accelerating, it will shift perfectly as you select it. Dont know if that gives anything away as far as possible symptoms This moment I just finished installing the stock style exhaust, which will e great to hear myself think and what the car is doing lol. Then I'll tackel the driveshaft swap for an hour or so. Dont really know where to go from here

The flush was an attempt to fix the problem, it was pre-existing, but I hadnt drive the car in a while ( have a summer car ) and as soon as I put this truck back on the road, I immediately noticed it wasnt shifting correctly and made a few odd noises and was problematic shifting from 2-3 and 3-4, at the same time my alternator was showing signs of weakness, and died, so it took me a day or two to source and fix that, and while I was at it I flushed the trans with 15L of Shell DexIII ATF since the old stuff did look black and not have a fresh smell to it. And gear 2 and 3 just havent returned. You mention speed sensor, Im not quite sure where that is I will have to look it up. The car does have bigger tires on it than from factory, could that be enough to fool anything? Its a 3.5% (1" OD) difference according to an online calculator I'll have to research where the PNP switch is and how to test it. The car will have sat for 36 hours by the morning with the battery disconnected. I also got my ultra-gauge in the mail today which can tell me alot of sensor information, Id like to see what the car is saying its at throttle position % wise compared to the ultra-gauge Sounds like I may be facing a used transmission purchase, but Id love to rule out electronics first, would hate to do a trans swp and still have this problem. My walker oem stainless replacement exhaust arrived today aswell so that will go on tomorrow, the car is open after the resonators right now. I also got another 2wd driveshaft with boots intact from a junkyard online, since I feel mine to be in poor shape with ripped boots and a possibly "whining" center bearing. The used one is in much better shape, so I'll probably swap that in the morning aswell. Connect the battery, start the truck up, and go from there. Finally the weekend

Sucessfully calibrated the TPS, after starting the truck to let it warm before preforming the relearn key cycles the car was idling @ 1200 fully warmed, and after doing the key cycles it idles at a perfect 750 so I think that worked great. I then triple checked the calibration test again, continuity with .002" feeler gauge, no continuity with .006" feeler. Took her for a test drive, still didnt shift into 3-4 Is it possible the car wouldnt "learn" to shift and needs a full ecu reset?? I have yet to pull the negative cable for 24 hours... but I think im pulling at dead straws here Is there anything else that would cause no D3-4, or am I fighting a lost cause and I need a transmission. I also checked trans fluid again and its still in perfect level on the hot side, and fresh smelling.

After finding a labeled diagram of which connector the "throttle closed position switch" was with a lamens diagram showings its orientation on the engine *EC-178*, it is indeed flipped from how they show it on EC-170, and the correct pins to be testing for continuity while adjusting it are from the bottom connector when looking over the engine, testing the top 2 pins in that connector I most likely was testing the wrong pins, will redo after some sleep

Car threw the evap code P1446 while test driving, but I doubt that is causing this issue. Has anyone ever had much success doing the relearn key on key off procedures? Im not sure my car is taking to them

Yeah I was aware I could use good quality Dex III I did a TPS calibration today aswell as a tps reset procedure but cleared nothing up as of yet, Im not so huge on the key on 5 second, key off 10 second procedures, as they dont tell you if they were successful or not I disconnected the battery last night and reconnected it this morning before doing this calibration, about 10 hours, and my CEL was still not cleared so i suppose I have to leave it disconnected even longer for it to clear the ecu?

Mine had a very annoying squeek until i changed to OEM bearings

Thank you town, I literally just told my boss Im sick and to get me coverred for the day so i can go try this

Just popped into my head after some researching aswell, this truck is actually LOWERRED using 4x4parts springs. Could the driveshaft somehow be compressing to much and causing some sort of bind/trouble enough to cause this? I do believe my shaft to be in poor shape, but I did just grease its zerk with wheel bearing grease. The truck did shift hard and make some " drive shaft related " noises that are hard to describe before I flushed the trans fluid, now it makes a slight whirring while idling after driving My truck being 2wd might be different than most here but that "troubleshoot" just popped in my head

Hey guys I didnt notice this specific forum until just now. My 2001.5 is having alot of trouble shifting and before pulling the trigger on a new transmission Id like to rule out alot of other possibilities that ive gathered from the net that seem to make things go crazy in our 3.5L's Heres a more lengthy post I wrote on the problem http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36746-20015-wont-shift-into-3-4-cant-be-good/?do=findComment&comment=696639 Is there any particular reason that a truck would stop shifting into 3rd and 4th that jumps into anyones mind?

Hey guys, Im over my head on this one and hope to repair it with the forums help before I brake down and bring it to a shop and eat Ramen noodles for a year. Luckily I dont need the truck so it can sit til I fix it and limp it around It is a 2001.5 with VQ35DE engine and auto 4 speed R code trans, has 120k on it. The problem seems to be transmission related but after some research there are so many things that can cause transmissions issues on this truck its crazy. Its very cold here in canada, which isnt helping. Just this weekend I did a full trans cooler flush with 20L of fresh DexIII and Lubegaurd red, fluid level is perfect. The car did throw 2 codes and I looked them up the first day I had the problem but I erased them and the important one didnt come back, it had something to do with the torque convertor, I believe it was P1744 or P17?? Im silly for not writing it down. And the other code was for the evap but that wouldnt cause this issue would it? Problem is when I start driving, it revs much to high shifting 1-2, and then just wont shift anymore. Kind of like a limp mode, luckily I only work 3miles from home and dont mind driving in 2nd @ 3k rpm and 35mph. it just wont shift, stays at that rpm, feels like the torque convertor isnt licking up and letting it shift. Once fully warmed the 1-2 shift will behave normal. Is there some sort of reset or relearns that I must do properly first? I changed the fuel filter today because I thought it had maybe sat to long without moving, but fuel conditioner was put in the tank before it was parked a year ago, and was moved/started every month. Just 2 days ago I discoverred the PO had installed a Maxima MAF, but he gave me the OEM QX4 one in a box, after alot of reading i thought it may be MAF related so I cleaned the oem one today with proper MAF cleaner and installed it, but it changed nothing. Possibly needs to reset ecu first? I know Im in deep with this problem, but I live in such a small town that I dont trust to take it to a local shop, I will honestly compensate a member or even a charity if they wish to help me fix this problem. Not even kidding, $100 anyone? Hope someone has some experience to help me fix this, cheers guys