silverton

I really should start frequenting this forum more.. Instead of replacing the entire distributor there is an optic part inside of it underneath a metal disc with 6 big holes and 360 little ones. That's the eyeball for the cam position sensor. Most Nissan's with distributors use the same part. But I was going to say it's either that or your ignition coil. Sometimes when they get hot they don't work as well.

If you bought the Moog, you could have saved yourself $20 by buying the Mevotech. They have the same part number.

double down!!

Those GENSSI style LED headlight housings are garbage. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/finally-perfect-l-e-d-headlights-cherokee-xjs-200299/ The proper way to have LED headlights is to swap to a hard body front end, and buy these https://www.amazon.com/GE-NIGHTHAWK-Rectangular-Replacement-Headlamp/dp/B00BQX2BSO

Well sure, you added the ignition control box as well. Just the coil by itself is not a performance part on these trucks, and the only people noticing a difference are those with previously bad coils, and/or those taking sugar pills. I've tested the factory coil in my truck, and it put out 35-40k volts.

Do this. But try to grab one from a truck with obviously exterior damage, as a lot of them end up in there because of broken timing belts. I think you can use an R50 block as well, you'd want to keep your heads and injection. You can confirm if a rod is bent by rotating the crank. All of the pistons should sit flush with the deck when at the top of their throw, so you can check two at a time as it goes around.

That's not the point, need the wagon! four doors for more... well, you know.

I just got one for $40 from rockauto and it was beefier than the nissan oem one I removed!

Yes, unless of course one thing that doesn't have to do with the general operation of the system happens, should you top off the fluid. Christ, we all got a story where the cosmo aligns and we need to do something against the norm. Who are you and what relevance was this? Your issue was not related to OP and did not merit a zombie thread bump. OP only said ABS light came on which is stupidly common on these trucks (diff speed sensor anyone?). If the fluid is low or your float happens to be stuck the BRAKE light illuminates as well.

After about 20 minutes exercising my google-fu, those aren't something you'll be able to just buy. Keep an eye on craigslist, you might get lucky.

This is a very very very very very very very very common problem with the round dash trucks. They say giving the screws on the back of the cluster about an 1/8th of a turn will help, but I had to replace mine.

You won't be able to lower a four wheel drive as much as you want. There's just extra junk in the suspension up front. I've played around in my head about getting a two wheel drive to slam and turn in to a "race truck"

Of course the build quality isn't as good. Americans put it together! WD's last cause they had to take a boat ride.

rebirth sorta. Shares the same chassis code. 87-95 Pathfinders are WD21, and the first gen X is a WD22. They're leaf sprung in the back so they don't wheel quite as nicely, but it makes them better tow vehicles. Also, they're big. I've wheeled with a couple and I usually stare in awe. Body armor is a must.

More than 10% difference across the cylinders is not good. If you have four sitting at 150, the lowest you want is 135, so that one at 110 is bad. 80 is extra bad. Adding oil would increase the compression even with a bent rod. So I wouldn't rule out a bent rod yet as that's more likely than the valve. The valves were closed when the piston came up to compress your water/fuel mixture, its already been said but, water doesn't compress and that pressure has to go somewhere! A leak down test will determine if it's the valves (leak down test leaks) or if it's a rod (leak down test does not leak).

They look like something from American Racing painted black to me.

This is the location of the amps in the round dash (94-95) trucks afaik. I believe the square dash trucks have them under the stereo.

Whoa... I got my first Pathfinder in 2009 but I didn't have it long. My current truck I got late Oct 2010. Daaammmnnnn, so that means my KM2's have lasted over six years! Not once have I gotten it professionally aligned either. I'm definitely getting another set.

We don't get the story?? I want to know what it takes to rip an entire headlight housing out and turn it in to a parallelogram.

That uses flat bar to go around the headlights. The one I had on my truck was round bar... oh wait, I had a 95 so I'm sure they changed it to flow with the rest of the truck. Where that thing mounted to seems so chintzy! I think I bent it love tapping a friend with a smittybilt bumper.

I wonder what the winch looks like! I know that factory grill guard thing was nowhere beefy enough to have a winch on it. One of my trucks had some form of household carpet in the back, it looks mostly factory as they had used the tie downs to keep it in place.

Or.... there is a guy that makes an adapter so the OE 3.0 damper works.

There is a little optic sensor under a metal disc inside the distributor. It's gone bad. I've had to replace a couple. One I drove to work just fine, then I couldn't go home.

One could weld new metal in place of the cleaned up hole as well. Just for funsies, put your heater on blast with all the windows closed, then put your hand over the exterior plastic trim behind the rear window. Make shift blow dryer!

Just to get this cat out of the bag, my current 95 pathfinder, with its previous owner, had reverse at one point in the day... later on it did not and it never came back or tried. 2000(1 maybe?)-2004 Xterra transmission are direct swap, plug and play and errrrrrthing. The only thing you might notice is first gear not quite being as peppy. It's a way taller gearing compared to the pathfinder. Loss of power, fluctuating idle.... my guess is there might be a vacuum leak somewhere. Try a smoke test or spray something flammable around the various vacuum lines and whatnot. I would not worry about the differences in the two ECU's. If you're looking to swap the engine, you keep your intake manifold and wiring harness so the ECU won't know the difference. If you swap the intake manifold and harness, then sure... swap the ECU as well. The only difference is federal and cali emissions. stupid EGR, bah... good riddance to you! Also, it's not just a diagnostic box, it's the whole shebang for running the truck, keep it safe! AT coolers are super easy too. Take the outlet line, iirc it's the one on the driver side, and plug it in to the "top" of the AT cooler, and the return line in to the "bottom". Easiest and safest place to mount it is between the AC condenser and the radiator. AC condensers make great boulder shields for important cooling devices! It's recommended to get a couple rubber caps to put on your factory radiator cooler, just in case you need it later on. Don't want it to get filled with dirt and crud. In conclusion, a vacuum leak could cause loss of power, fluctuating idle, and hard shifts. PS: If you don't have any welding skills, take it to an exhaust shop to have them rehang the exhaust. Mine just sits across the cross members cause I'm lazy!