Kyle94 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I thought you just lost fluid? Just put the hose back on and make sure it's clamped down firmly...? That's a good course of action, isn't it? I had some fun in the morning rain. I didn't go fast, of course. That's just dangerous. especially around here. I had some fun with puddles and I didn't even slip the tires! I guess I'm getting better. I did just lose the fluid. but i have to have money to put fluid back in it and see if it is okay... which we got fluid today. just waiting for my mom to get home with it... -_- and i have tto find the hose clamps my step dad has. today... i looked at it again. and realized how much i miss it... but i like the hardbody too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 You need to tighten @!*% better and it won't happen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Today I ran the ipod cord to the cd deck under the carpet to inside my center console and hid my ipod in there so no theives get tempted to try and steal it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Screw the 33, that's a truck engine, no two ways about it. Keep the VG30E in there, T30 it, 10PSI intercooled, R200 diff, but I do agree about the Z32 brakes. Of course all that bumps the cost way up, and is still before considering suspension stuff, but it IS a luxury car... Lol you're dumb, that is a totally ignorant comment. Definitely VG33 with VG30 cams and not the VG30, no two ways about it. It's NOT a truck engine only. It's a VG30 that's larger, has much thicker cylinder walls, and can handle almost the same amount of power. 12PSI won't phase a VG but it's the max for a stock T3 and fuel system. Do you have any idea how many VG33ET Z31s there are nowadays? A sheit load. A CLSD R200 from a Z31 is what goes in the rear, and if I were to build one I wouldn't care about how much it's going to cost. Edited January 28, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Lol you're dumb, that is a totally ignorant comment. Yeah, man. Come on. That's something I would say. I totally agree with everything Kingman said. Bigger= more powah. (I know this isn't always the case so don't quote me and blah blah). That CLSD is DEFINITELY what you want in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 don't quote me and blah blah too late, you have been quoted switched wheels/tires over the the BFG 31s on the Eagle 15x8s since I was starting to strip the 4runner (also put in it's donated Silverstars and good RainX I think wiper blades. No point leaving them on it for it to sit and get parted out...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Lol you're dumb, that is a totally ignorant comment. No James, smaller engines and less boost make more power! I thought you knew that lol. WTF are you trying to do with more boost and bigger pistons anyway? I removed the 2 chunky emissions components from my driver fender wall. I will not be needing them when I switch to MPFI and the air box needs to go there anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 WTF are you trying to do with more boost and bigger pistons anyway? Go slower, duh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Lol you're dumb, that is a totally ignorant comment. I take offense at that. Completely condescending post. You speak as though I have no legitimate reasoning behind my decisions. The VG33 is just an up-bored VG30. Same block, water jackets moved to accommodate the bigger bore. Same stroke. If I wanted to increase displacement, I'd use stroke to generate more torque. It's more expensive, but "if I were to build one I wouldn't care about how much it's going to cost." Let's say, then, money is no object. I'd probably upstroke it to square, in that case. Not much, only up to 3.1L but it's something. I'm not looking for the biggest, highest-boost turbo, I'm looking for something with more boost than a T25, with comparable spool time. If I cared enough, I'd use a T25 and T34 in sequential arrangement. Because I bloody well can. For that matter, let's do that and push the top-end boost to 20PSI, and drop compression on the pistons. While I'm in there, do something about that interference valve train so it can handle higher revs. (Square displacement means higher revs means higher exhaust pressure means increased responsiveness) Increase to bigger injectors to handle the fuel issue, run 93 octane. Didn't I say R200? You know, the Z31 diff with the CLSD? Yeah, put that in there, because you know, it's the only good diff on this drivetrain. Since money isn't an object, put the whole thing on coilovers (AGX comes to mind for some reason) and skip the Z32 brakes, go with Q45 brakes. Those buggers are massive, I've seen 'em stop an S12 on a dime. Of course at this point, I should have bought a Z32 TT and done some upgrades with what was left over in the money. And that's why I'm not swapping and building the whole engine, and using a small turbo. Because I'm not working with a lot of money here. I can get a rebuilt T30 and a Z31 manifold for a couple hundred dollars, an FMIC for a hundred, fix up the exhaust for not too much, and a tranny for $200. On top of a $500-1000 car in my area. The other odds and ends finish me off at about $2000 total investment. Basically, I'm making a Z31 that doesn't understeer like mad. I think the ignorant comment is the one stating I should use an engine that was only used in trucks, SUVs, and Minivans, as a street performance engine, instead of spending the money I'd need to make it properly streetable on upgrading the engine that's already there. VG33s are good for supercharging and make great Pathfinder engines. But there is no way I'd put one in my sleeper. And what's this about VG33'd Z31s? I don't know any. I've known a good number of Z31s in D/FW, and not a one was a VG33. A couple of LS, a few RB, even a VG30DE, but nothin' VG33. *Ahem* Back to Pathfinders. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) And what's this about VG33'd Z31s? I don't know any. I've known a good number of Z31s in D/FW, and not a one was a VG33. A couple of LS, a few RB, even a VG30DE, but nothin' VG33. Here y'are. Just searching "VG33" on z31performance.com, only a handful of builds and searching topic titles only, not entire threads. There are more on that site not linked to VG33, and more elsewhere. http://z31performanc...055&hilit=+vg33 http://z31performanc...4932&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...7535&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...8391&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...5315&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...3631&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2285&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...7666&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...5417&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2471&hilit=vg33 http://z31performanc...2599&hilit=vg33 Since money isn't an object, put the whole thing on coilovers (AGX comes to mind for some reason) and skip the Z32 brakes, go with Q45 brakes. Those buggers are massive, I've seen 'em stop an S12 on a dime. I don't want coil overs and Z32TT brakes are plenty for this guy. Didn't I say R200? You know, the Z31 diff with the CLSD? Yeah, put that in there, because you know, it's the only good diff on this drivetrain. Yep, the one that enabled me to do awesomely fun donuts and whatnot. It's a great diff and can handle a lot of power. I'm not looking for the biggest, highest-boost turbo, I'm looking for something with more boost than a T25, with comparable spool time. If I cared enough, I'd use a T25 and T34 in sequential arrangement. Because I bloody well can. For that matter, let's do that and push the top-end boost to 20PSI, and drop compression on the pistons. While I'm in there, do something about that interference valve train so it can handle higher revs. (Square displacement means higher revs means higher exhaust pressure means increased responsiveness) Increase to bigger injectors to handle the fuel issue, run 93 octane. Sounds great for a highish-horsepower build. Now take a VG33, put a big fuggin turbo on it, crank the boost to 35PSI and make 700WP. Yeehaw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSgz7IPLNVM&feature=player_embedded You can take VGs to 8K stock, I've done it... It's pointless as without head work you stop making power at 5.5-6K. You're missing my point entirely. There is no reason, none, zip, zilch, nada, to keep a VG30 when there's a VG33 around that's bigger and already produces more power, plus has thicker cylinder walls for further boring... you can't even bore a VG30 to 3.3L. A 9:1 VG33 at 12PSI on a stock T3 will make more power than a 9:1 VG30 at 12PSI on a stock T3. A 9:1 VG33 at 20PSI on a GT35R will make more power than a 9:1 VG30 at 20PSI on a GT35R. I wouldn't be touching the internals of the engine that would be going in. I don't need to unless I feel like cracking 400WHP. Why start with a less powerful base when there's bigger out there? That's silly. Anything you can do to a VG30 you can do to a VG33, so you are only hampering yourself by sticking with an almost identical smaller engine. There is no replacement for displacement. Eventually I plan on building a VG34 and supercharging it for my Pathfinder. That's a while down the road though. You have your ideas, I have mine. But yeah, Pathfinders... Installed one of those storage cubbys that goes under the center stack. Took me forever to find a truck in the junkyard that had one. And I also cleaned out some more mold... Edited January 28, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 No replacement for displacement, except when a bigger engine is cost-prohibitive, and modifications to bring it within the desired parameters are more so. I know a bunch of intact VG30s around me for cheap, off the top of my head. I look and I look and no one has a VG33 anywhere near me. And why bother? I'm not doing an expensive build, I'm doing a fun, cheap one, that I can toss around until I blow something up. The most prevalent reason not to get the bigger engine that produces (15, only 15) more power, stock, is it's expensive. It costs money. If I buy an M30, it's got a VG30, free of charge. That's better for me. Don't get me wrong, I respect the VG33. I've considered, when Sammy's engine inevitably dies, finding a 33 and building a VG34ER. Because the VG33 does what I want in a truck. Its power band is right where I want it in a truck. But it's not quite what I like in a car, and it's more money than I wanna spend on a cheap sleeper. It's a hobby car, not my pride and joy. I could throw away the M30, for all I care. I'm thinking of finding a tree and using a ratcheting tie-down to try and bend the radiator support back forward a bit. It's starting to bug me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Very true on the price point and availability. But to find an M30 cheap, for me, is to find one with a blown engine. The reason the VG33s only puts out a little more power stock is because of the piss poor cams they have. The VG33 OWO heads themselves are much better designed than the A/B and W-series VG30 heads and flow more, but again the cams are the downfall. That's why you run the VG30 cams with the VG33... so you get the much better torque curve (what you would want in a car) along with the added power from displacement, freer flowing heads, and better cams. Cams make a big difference, you can't blame the whole entire engine for having the wrong power curve when it's only two parts that change the entire game. Edited January 28, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I can attest to the difference of power between the vg33e and vg30e. it woke my pathfinder right up. i would DEFINITELY put this motor in a car any day, just use your old vg30e cams in it and it will have a higher torque curve. i got my whole vg33 engine and accessories /misc parts for 200$ but I had to pull it. look around man. it's worth it! i am now seriously considering doing a vg33e-t swap on my z32 slicktop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Got tired of my belts squealing for the past 6 months, so I changed the PS one, and tightened the others. Oh and replaced my corner bulb that was out. Now she doesnt howl and has all her lights. If only the front end didn't feel like it was gonna fall apart.... Another day I suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Nothing, someone stole my sled right out my yard. Spent the evening looking...found it ditched with no gas and the ignition yanked. Hoping to get to t-belt project on my 91 this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 yikes sorry to hear that dude. rough night! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Very true on the price point and availability. But to find an M30 cheap, for me, is to find one with a blown engine. The reason the VG33s only puts out a little more power stock is because of the piss poor cams they have. The VG33 OWO heads themselves are much better designed than the A/B and W-series VG30 heads and flow more, but again the cams are the downfall. That's why you run the VG30 cams with the VG33... so you get the much better torque curve (what you would want in a car) along with the added power from displacement, freer flowing heads, and better cams. Cams make a big difference, you can't blame the whole entire engine for having the wrong power curve when it's only two parts that change the entire game. I don't understand the price difference he is talking about. VG33 are in more vehicles now than VG30s. I got a running VG33 out of a villager van for $160. As for parts just about everything is interchangeable. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I think a lot of the availability issue is because the VG33 vehicles are newer and haven't had as much time to hit the junkyards, unlike the Z31s, 200SXs, Pathfinders, Hardbodies, older vans, Maximas, etc. Sometimes there's zero VG33s on Craigslist and the next day there will be four wrecked caR50s or Xterras. But yeah, finding a good motor for $150-250 is pretty easy if you hold your tongue right. Hell there's a 17K mile VQ40 on Craigslist from an '07 Pathfinder. Says the engine was damaged but they only want $300 for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I don't understand the price difference he is talking about. VG33 are in more vehicles now than VG30s. I got a running VG33 out of a villager van for $160. As for parts just about everything is interchangeable. James Local to me, I can't find any 33s, but more 30s than I could ever want. Not a one of those 30s is more than $200 and all of 'em are running. I guess there's just a different density of the vehicles that carried them down here. Everyone and their grandma has a 300ZX here. (I almost bought one from a grandma, actually, but it was trashed) Not to mention more WD21s than R50s, and a bunch of 3rd-gen Maximas. I'd have to do some serious looking to find a 33, and for what? Better-flowing heads and 5mm more bore? Port the 30 heads and stroke it 4mm. It's more expensive, but I feel like it's more elegant. Anyway, I'm gonna go screw around in and with my truck. See you guys later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) SchizophrenicMC here's some food for thought about bore vs stroke. Yes a stroked vg31 would make more torque (and be really cool) but a 3.3 still gets a good measure of torque from its larger bore compared to the 3.0 (either way works for me ) Now with money being no object, nissan motor sports played with EVERY combination of bore and stroke imaginable in the vg30 and vg33 for their baja race trucks. If I'm not mistaken they went all they way out to 3.8 liters with bore and stroke. But what they finally settled on in their endless budget was a vg34. STOCK 83mm Stroke and 93.5mm bore. they were known to be torque monsters. They found that Being over square by 12% (putting them in middle of the magic10-15% range) set them up for the optimum torque to hp ratio across the entire rpm range for optimum acceleration. And as an N/A motor it was still small enough to not outflow the restrictive sohc heads which were wildly ported to keep it from running out of air all the way up to 6500 RPM. Adapt this combination to a turbo build where running out of air is no longer an issue even with stock heads and the results are tremendous on low boost. Now I'm not saying your way is wrong but you did come across sounding like James way was wrong and yours would be better and make more power. Anyone can build their engine however they want (paeco engines does a well priced VG stoker if your interested) and now you even know about what a factory racing team with 'limitless' budget played with and settled upon. Edited January 28, 2012 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Maybe I'm just fascinated by square displacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hell there's a 17K mile VQ40 on Craigslist from an '07 Pathfinder. Says the engine was damaged but they only want $300 for it. I've seen insurance companies call engines "damaged" on flopped Xterras, and pay to have em replaced... Coulda been something similar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I tried to pull the bent radiator support back out, but since I only have a hand winch and the back of the GMC, I didn't get anywhere with that. If only I had a buddy and could find the ratchet tiedown straps. Also a tree. Now, neither of my headlight assemblies, nor my grille, are attached, and the bend in the rad support is all the more noticeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Last night: put 5-6 qts of ATF in it. drove it and felt happeh. still AM happeh! Today: Washed; Put these on each side; and vacuumed it out. Then i took off the tire carrier, and the sliding and locking brackets off. and then put all the bolts back in the holes. until tomorrow when i straighten the swinger arm out... and put some rubber in the brackets to make it stop rattling. might leave it off for a few weeks anyway though... i kind of like it, for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I replaced the random unknown rear coils and bent panhard rod on the r50 and now the axle is no longer shifted to the passenger side, woohoo. And it actually feels safe to drive now. I also fixed the threading on one of the lugs for a lug nut (not sure what to call that) so I can put on some wheel spacers to allow my good tires to clear the struts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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