OlBlue

Thanks very much, shouldn't the marks on the crank line up, while the piston is at the top, AND the dist is pointed at #1?

Hi I have started to change the T-belt on a 3.3L the vehicle was running terrible, but made it into the garage. I have the top cover off and can see the t-belt is missing teeth and pretty loose but still in one piece. When I turn the crank, the dist is nowhere near pointing in the direction of the #1 plug, when the timing marks on the crank are near the indicator. I have a piece of wire in the #1 cylinder and can see the #1 piston is at the top, when the crank rotates to align with the timing marks but the FSM says dist should point at #1. Silly question but should I just continue to rotate the crank until the dist/crank line up? Or, is there something I am missing?

The ABS under th

Thanks guys, I think I will go ahead and install the AT I picked up, while planning out an eventual swap to MT. Neither of these vehicles have seen a paved road in at least 6 years, and I have to say that I find that the 91 with manual and factory LSD is a far more capable vehicle in snow than the AT without LSD. That is my driving preference, but time is always an issue and the AT swap looks like the way to go. I really want to lock the rear on one of them. Will keep you posted on the trans swap! By the way sorry for the double post, I will look into deleting the other one...no offence ahardboy!

Hi guys, it's been a while. I am looking for some opinions... My 91 M/T is rusted beyond reasonable repair, but has a fresh engine, new clutch. The Auto Trans in my 95 is shot, the engine runs ok but the cam seals are leaking and it is about due for a t-belt change. I have replacement auto trans from a wreck. It seems to me pulling the engine and trans from the 91 and dropping it in the 95, might be the way to go. Both options are a lot of work and either option will get my 95 back on the road just looking for some ideas on the swap. Any takers?

Looked at the auto transmission sitting on the floor I was planning on installing in my 95, then looked out at OlBlue (91-MT) with the rotted frame. Gave some thought to pulling the (fresh) engine and trans as a unit from Ol Blue and installing in my 95, converting my 95 from auto to manual and not completely saying good bye to OlBlue. Made a list of things to consider between a straight auto trans removal install vs diff ratios,, wrestling with front diff, and having to search for that thread about converting an AT to MT, time I have available etc. Decided to go fishing and think it over, ended up thinking about fish...

My 95 only has oil pressure and solenoid (2) wires.

Hi Sorry for the slow response I have been travelling, will post some pics once i get back. Never thought of the window as being an issue since I never use mine!

Since the frame on OlBlue (RIP 1991-2012, 386K) has finally disolved beyond reasonable repair I have been looking at options. I took the plunge today and bought an 03 X -XE. I finally caught on to why everyone is swapping out their 3.0's for the 3.3L...It takes me awhile but what a difference! I like that many of the parts and the "know how" are interchangable between the WD21 and WD22. Lots of good things to say about the X, based on my test drive and inspection. Once I change the t-belt, I need to do something for the front bumper...too much plastic! My 95 WD21 will remain my DD once I swap the toasted trans. Good times.

Good luck man, my 95 was eating starters like crazy last winter and I currently have a Bosch and have had good luck so far. The bolts are easy enough to get to (14mm?) a couple of extensions and then slide it forward and spin up/down/side to side, tilt, turn and if you have A/Twiggle past the lines (fun). Someone posted a while back that they took theirs out from the top after removing oil filter, but I just go through the front. Have at it!

X3 on being built for taller folks, visibility aside with work boots on the tilt steering is the only way a guy can get in/out of a WD21 and get your feet past the pedals.. I am still driving my 95 but since the frame on my 91 has officially dissolved, I am looking at my options. I have a ridiculous amount of parts stockpiled for my WD21's (no spare frames rails though). I have a line on a nice 2003 Xterra, and I am looking into what parts are compatable. It is an interesting exercise, So far I have concluded there are a lot similarities between models,the X has awesome aftermarket options, and the NPORA search function is not the worst ever, the NPORA moderators are awesome and the content on the P-finder site is highly informative onX's! That being said a test ride will tell the tale on my X plans.

Finally took a close look at the rear frame rails on OlBlue. Not safe to drive, not sure there is enough to left to weld anything onto.

Has anyone actually installed these things yet? If so any details? The rear frame on my 91 has all but disolved and I need to figure something out. I like what I have been reading, but wonder if this case is too far along. I will take some pics tomorrow, the amount of decay is remarkable.

I say double check the spline count or you will have some shiny paper weights (like me). If the spline count is compatable bring a pipe and wedge it, if you have access to a cordless impact driver that might also do the trick. (I look for just about any excuse I can find to use my makita.)

Well that ought to do it! I wish I would have though of leaving the PS pump and mount off for the install, that is a good tip 510!

Glad to hear you are underway! I like what Precise said about blocks under the trans when you get it shifted back. I am not sure what kind of hoist/ceiling arrangement you have, but I had to take the tires off and drop the whole vehicle down to get the oil pan to clear the top of the rad... If you are doing the trans jack plan, I suspect lowering the vehicle might be tough. If your ceiling is low or your hoist has a limited height. Just throwing that out there. Have at it.

I have been running 31X10.5 on mine for years, and back in the day I had a rack for bikes on the carrier. The rack combined with the 2 bikes weighed probably 50lbs in addition to the weight of the tire and the only problem I ever had was with the latch letting the carrier swing open in rush hour after returning from a long weekend. Those carriers are well put together.

So far so good, seems to be running ok. The idle is now holding at about 2K which is interesting.

Wow nice shape! Looks like the "before" picture of my 95...

I don't like dead end threads so I thought I should close this off. I finally got Ol Blue shovelled out and made some time to check out the t-belt install. It turns out the space between the cams was correct (40 teeth) but I was off by one between the crank and the LH cam mark (44 instead of 43) . The stumbling at start up is gone, and she seems to be back to all the power I have come to expect from a 3.0L It no longer feels like I am dragging something.

I counted to 40 and 43 too many times...which means I finally checked out the t-belt on my 91, and the good news is...I was off by one tooth between the crank and the LH Cam mark. Reinstalled belt and tensioner and corrected install. She started right up (no more stumbling) but seems to be idling high....but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Soak it down and then soak it again. If it save drilling out some bolt its worth it, any way you slice it. If you do plan on moving or removing the diff you can remove thel brackets that are bolted onto the cross member not just the bolts that run through the diff this will let you wiggle it left to right a bit. I found this out after scraping and inch of oil soaked muck off the top of the cross member. Moving the tranny back might make it possible leave the diff where it is while removing the engine but I didn't go this route. I pulled the diff out.

Maybe you have tried this aleady but can you figure out if it is the same sound as the fuel pump by having someone else turn the key to activate the pump while you stand by the tire carrier? If you can't figure out what the intermittent mystery noise is you may as well confirm what the known noise (fuel pump) sounds like from back there. Other than that I remember a post a while back where someone was getting a gas smell in their garage after they brought the vehicle inside from the cold and the contents of the fuel tank expanded as they warmed. I don't recall any mention, of a hum, or buzz with it, but like MY1PATH said venting mightmake a noise

If memory serves I spent more time wrestling with the diff on the way out than I expected. The mounting brackets would get in the way I could only slide sideways or forward not both. was pretty sure one of the t-bars had to come out (they don't). It is exactly what it looks like, kind of heavy but really awkward, due to the off centre weight. It would be much easier with an extra set of hands.

For removal I had to remove the diff, there was no way the oil pan would clear it during removal. If you do choose remove the oil pan, the pick up is still there. I would also suggest having a box of zip loc bags, a marker, and some tape for labelling all those hoses and connectors. There are some really good write ups, that will save you a lot of time. Give the nuts on the exhaust a good soaking, they seem to be prone breaking off, Have fun with the top bolt on the drivers side between the tranny and engine.