OlBlue

It is a replacement engine, I changed the timing belt before I put it in the vehicle.I counted the teeth on the belt several times before reassembling and I am pretty sure I got it right. I picked up the timing light, because I want to figure out if the timing is off because as I understand it the bad timing would lead to the dragging feeling/stumbling start up and set off the knock sensor. Thanks for the responses so far fellas.

Hi Guys, I am hoping to check and if necessary adjust the timing on my 91. The reason being I changed the timing belt, and the vehicle stumbles on start up,idles fine, but when I accelerate it feels like I am towing a trailer with two flat tires. Checking the codes showed knock sensor. I have a timing light and have chalked the lines on the pulley. I understand that the dist. can't be adjusted as with the earlier models.To adjust the timing I assume I have to redo the timing belt. The FSM didn;t say much and the Haynes only comments on the 4 banger and older models.Having searched the topic I can see that there is some discussion on which of the lines on the pulley I should be watching and working with... I guess my question at this point is pretty basic, given the year what am I looking for with the timing light? I definetly don't want to dive back into the t-belt because I am misreading the t-light. Thanks for any insight you can offer!

Finally got a timing light, hoping it will shed some light on the dragging feeling in my 91. Good news on the 95 though, I think I finally got the starter issue sorted out. I replaced the cable for the (+) terminal to the starter last weekend and so far so good in a week of -38C dead calm weather. I had inspected the original on several occassions and it seemed fine, however after replacing it I stripped the housing. It looks like 17 year old wire was crimped badly enough during the numerous starter removal/installations over the past year that it was basically broken about 5cm up from the starter. The housing looked OK on the outside though. I think this explains why the starter(s) bench tested fine, and the "tap it" trick seemed to work only once in a while. My guess is I was actually touching and adjusting the wire with the pipe I was using to tap the starter(?)

Hey thanks for the quick reply. I guess confirming the timing is the place to start. I think I have a line on a timing gun for the weekend. I still have the old engine to pull the MAF or other sensors from if necessary so that is good. It seems the 02 sensor can come into play on this as well?

Hi, I am having issues with my 91 XE/MT. It idles well, and the RPM seem to respond normally in neutral, but when I try to accelerate it feels like I am towing/dragging something at the bottom of each gear until finally I get to a speed where it seems to "open up" and drive normally. This seems to be the case in each gear. It almost feels like I am shifting up too early,from 1-2nd, 2-3rd etc. From a background perspective... -changed the engine in this vehicle last summer. Haven't really had a chance to drive it much since then. -checked over all vacuum lines -compression tested ok -changed the fuel pump, and fuel filter 2X -new plugs all around -changed air filter -noticed a some exhaust leaks tonight -checked codes pulled #34 (Knock Sensor)not sure if there are others (yet). -Jacked vehicled up and checked all 4 wheels nothing binding or dragging -I had some "issues" changing the timing belt and I am not 100% sure about that the timing is perfect. I am hoping to get a hand checking the timing this weekend. I am not sure if timing would set off the code 34# or even if a knock sensor problem would be related to the problem I am having? Any suggestions are appreciated.

For what its worth, in no particular order here are the things I have changed/looked into related to starter issues in my 95. -changed/cleaned the terminal clamps, -cleaned/checked/tightened all starter cables/connections -changed/cleaned the ground cable -tried a new battery -did the "starter relay" fix -changed the starter for a new one, a known working one, and another "high quality" new one -pulled the cover off the steering column to see if ignition had any play in it that was preventing the key from turning all the way after reading a post identifying that as possible cause. After each change or fix I was convinced that I had found the problem because it started up fine for a week or two...and then suddenly..."click". Fortunately I started driving with my custom length of pipe, and hammer long ago. Unfortunately, I still have intermittent "click" problems. I read a post awhile back that there is a very limited tolerance within the range of voltage required to engage the starter motor. I really think there is something to that theory, and wonder if the re-mans, and after market are at the ends of those tolerances out of the box. I think the list above pretty much covers the suggestions I have found for starter fixes. There are two more I would recommend... 1)Oil filter relocation...there are a lot of good reasons for doing this beyond ease of oil changes, it prevents dripping oil all over the starter which cannot help, and makes starter removal/install easier 2)Whatever the heck the answer to my starter problem is...

Bummer,if you are looking at pumping a bunch more fluid in, many outboard motor gear oil bottles comes with a pump with a hose and nozzle on it. The cap fits most regular gear oil bottles for future use. Unfortunately,I have no new ideas on how you can get that out or the outcome of leaving it in...

Agreed they would help on the front. I have looked for cable/coil style around here but have not found them big enough for 31's Any leads on where I could order something decent online?

I haven't tried studded tires on either of my pathfinders, but have on other vehicles and they do help handling at moderate speeds. These days I drive on a lot of hard packed snow on top of gravel and carry a set of heavy duty chains for the rear. They will chew their way through almost anything when I get hung up in a drift or need to tow someone (or something). The down side of the big chains being they toss a lot of rock when they break though, and to drive more than 20KM/hr would surely shake the windows out once underway. I would like to try a set of the cable style to fit 31X10.5s' for the front but have not stumbled across any...yet.

Hi yes the diff will come out without removing the cross member. If memory serves after I disconnected both the drive axles, the two rear diff mount bolts and then the bolts that hold the diff brackets onto the cross member I slid it back, and then moved the rear to the side until one side slipped below the t-bars. I am pretty sure the t-bars were the biggest obstacle (along with infamous oil pan). It is a pretty awkward (off centre) weight once it is free, make sure nothing important is under it. I found, a short plank two rolling floor jacks and a semi willing helper were a huge help during the install. Good luck!

Finally got my 91 out for its first real test run since the engine, fuel pump, and steering install. All things considered it ran great, aside from sloppy steering, and the new clutch needing some adjustment. I managed to get hung up on a few drifts, but managed to pull through...hellooo winter!!!

I saw you pictures/write up in the other post, nice job!

I called the closest dealer and they said 350 so I called two closest after market places and they said 350 too. I have to fly the part in no matter where it comes from so that is 350 before shipping. I decided try out the moog from the rock auto site, they charged 165$ and 75$ for shipping. Thanks for the suggestion guys. You saved me a 100 bones before shipping. I will have to wait and see how long it takes to get up here.

I managed to damage the "swivel joint" on the relay rod (aka drag link). I have called around and it seems that the I need to buy the whole rod (drivers side to pax side) to replace it for 350$. It is just the joint at the end that is damaged. Does anyone know if you can get just the swivel joints or are they integral to the rod itself?

Just thought I would throw that out there, the AT lines are in the way but if you undo the brackets they move a bit and the starter rotates past and into position. There is a write up on it but I don't know how to link such things. Hats off to you for getting the starter in/out through the top!

Maybe I am reading you wrong, but when you remove/install the starter it sounds like you are trying to move it straight up/down. If so, have you tried putting it in from the front under the PS pump?

Now that...is interesting, I have always swapped out the whole starter no questions asked.

If the starter sounds tired, and the problem is intermittent, and the good ol' "tap it with the jack handle trick" works my guess is the starter motor needs to be replaced. The oil filter doesn;t need to be removed but it does make things a lot easier.

Just wondering what makes you think it is the solenoid that is the problem?

Same here, I have never seen the drivers side hook...(?)

I installed the starter with the modified wiring (temporary version), turned the key and Ol'Blue lives again! There was some sputtering at the start but she seems to idle fine, with no unsual sounds. After a few short idles and restarts I backed out of the garage under full steam. There is still some tuning to be done but man it was great to hear it go! Thanks to everyone who shared their expertise and good humour in getting this engine removal/install done.

I did a temporary version of this fix, problem solved!!! I will be ordering in a relay for a more permanent version. Thanks very much for the suggestions, and ultimately the fix. Definetly would not have come up with that on my own. As an added bonus, I am getting pretty quick at pulling and installing starters...!

Perfect! Thanks everyone, this looks like the way to go. Much appreciated. I will give the links and diagrams a look tonight, and see what I can get pulled together!

Thanks Sewebster you might break 1000 posts if I don;t figure this out soon!! I think we are on the same page. The voltage is going somewhere...without the right outcome. Either the starters are junk or there is something else (a short) sucking up the voltage. From what I figure the solenoid is basically an on/off switch that makes the click sound, when the switch is "switched" it activates the motor which spins the armature, which forces the gear to poke out and engage with the flywheel turning the engine over. The click..I have. If the starter motor needs to spin at a set RPM to force the gear out and when the switch is off or the motor slows, the spring retracts the gear back...but I am not even getting that far. In this case I seem to have two starters (again one top shelf/brand new and the other that worked fine when I blew a t-belt)with switches that are closing/opening/clicking but the voltage (when attached to the vehicle)is not enough to make the thing spin and the gear come out. If I have this straight (?) there is enough juice to click the switches, but not enough to spin the starter even with a fresh battery or jumping it with my charger set on "boost". As much as I don't feel like changing another one, I might remove the starter and battery from my 95 just to eliminate the possiblity I just have exceptionally bad luck with starters. If there are any starter motor jedis out there please feel free to comment so I don't mislead some poor searcher to the dark side of the starter world...the saga continues

The plot thickens... I took the starter out and covered up the wires, this seems to have resolved the sparking issue. Both starter motors seem fine on the bench (spinning clean and fast) When I connect the starter to the vehicle, and ground it using a jumper cable I get the same rapid "click click, clickety click" I do when they are installed but not rotation. Normally I would think that the starter was toast but since both starters test fine, and one is brand new, I am really not sure what to make of it. The ignition seems to put current to the starter (clickety click), but the starter(s) won't turn when connected to the vehicle... The starter circuit seems fairly simple...the ground is connected to the block and the positive cable seems to be in good order with good contact on the starter terminal. I am running out of variables to eliminate. The positive cable is bundled unless someone points me in a different direction I guess this weekend I will peel that back and inspect it. If that checks out I might pull the starter from my 95 (which works)and give it a try. Funny thing is this is the last thing I was worried about when installing a new engine.