OlBlue

You might want to take a look at one of these (below) I picked one up from Lee Valley for 60$...heats the tools up!! http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?c=&cat=1,43456,43465,44590&p=44590 Quartz Overhead Radiant Heater Convection heaters rely on heating the ambient air to transfer heat energy. Radiant heaters do not. They emit infrared waves that, like the sun, warm objects directly (people, workstations or tools), without drying the air, or circulating dust and other particles in the workshop. For hard-to-heat workshops and garages, this ceiling-mount heater is particularly convenient. The quartz elements have two settings – 760W and 1475W, producing 2590 and 5030 BTU/hour respectively. The housing rotates and swivels to let you aim the heat where needed and a pull cord keeps the controls conveniently within reach. Lightweight (about 5-1/2 lb) and easy to install, the heater has a built-in 25W halogen lamp, which can be used alone or with the heating elements (standard G9 halogen bulb included). Silent, clean and efficient, it operates on the high setting for a maximum of 15¢ an hour (based on 10¢ per kWh). For indoor use only. 24" wide by 3" deep by 11-1/2" high. Metal cabinet with steel and ABS mounting bracket. One-year warranty. 12.3 amps, 120V. UL/CUL approved.

No doubt about it...that'll do it. How is your shock rubbing on the boot though? What is the diameter of those shocks?

I would start by checking the hubs since that is quick and easy. Following that, I think it could be drive axle/CV's I had a very similar (identical?) situation a while back. It is posted under "shifting on the fly"... There are some very helpful posts on swapping the drive axles on this site too (eg 12 point-12mm socket...) Sounds like drive axles/CV to me though...and like Adamzan said an open Diff will spin like that.

I would start by checking the hubs since that is quick and easy. Following that, I think it could be drive axle/CV's I had a very similar (identical?) situation a while back. It is posted under "shifting on the fly"... There are some very helpful posts on swapping the drive axles on this site too (eg 12 point-12mm socket...) Sounds like drive axles/CV to me though...and like Adamzan said an open Diff will spin like that.

Sigh...my original response was "...more broken, than running- more stuck than rolling"... I am glad I didn't say 2 tons, or two tonnes...or too much...

I was charged for 1850Kg when I shipped my 91 back "in the day", with 31X10.5s a full tank, roof rack, winch, hitch plate etc. Start figuring in wet vs dry and gear..and you might find another 200Kg before you know it. Hope this helps.

For what its worth, I just picked up some manuals from a 94 at the bone yard. I didn't know they came stock so it was a bonus since I was there scavenging for something else. Anyway, 60$ for the pair. The donor (king cab) only had 36K, unfortunately the hubs were about all that was left... They say "lock" and "free" as well (as opposed to 4X4)...

Yikes sorry to hear that, but as far as a diagnosis goes,that sounds solid. I guess you read already but there are two gear ratios available make sure to check yours before you head to the bone yard. I read something about a tag on the pax side wheel well...but I had to turn mine to check. Good luck!

I had a similar situation with my 95. Everything seemed to engage, and after jacking it up I could see the inner axels turn etc. Thanks to some good advice from here; before I started messing with the diff I cleaned and checked my hubs. I saw my inner CV boots were damaged so ended up changing the drive axels as well. Anyway the outcome is the 4X is now running great. PS Once I disconnected the inner drive axels from the diff, I double checked that the two sides of the diff were actually rotating in the opposite directions when I manually turned them (they did). This seemed to take the diff out of the running as the immediate problem (whew!). I hope your fix is as simple! Good luck.

Hi rather than jacking and blocking the whole vehicle up I wrapped a piece of tape around the outer drive axels and marked it, and then engaged the 4X and drove forward and then checked to see if the label on the tape had turned. Maybe not as definitive but seemed to do the trick. The tape label had rotated (both sides), so I figure the drive axels were turning. I put some spare (working) auto hubs on. The passenger side hub was toast. Anyway, still no pull from the front wheels. The transfer case seems to be hooking up, the diff and axels are rotating(?), the dash light is on, the hubs are good...maybe its the driver/operator? I noticed the inner boots on the drive axels are ripped, I guess I will swap those out this week and see where that gets me. I think I will jack the whole thing up a take a look and see what moving and whats not first though...seeing is believing.

Looks like you dropped some bearings! It seems to shift just fine when I engage it properly, and the indicator light comes on, everything looks and feels good except no pull from the front wheels. I think I will try your suggestion this weekend. I am really hoping to see those front drive axles turn since I can't see a gear ratio on the diff (front or back) and there are apparently two different diffs available. Thanks for the suggestion, good and simple. Will let you know.

Hi, I have a 95 (auto), that will not engage in 4 at all (on the fly or stationary). I do the get the infamous grinding, if I fumble on the shift into 4X and had figured the diff had died. Instead of jumping into that I will try cleaning the hubs first. Thanks for the tip, much appreciated!