OlBlue

Thanks guys, since I tried a brand new starter and one I know that worked fine and I can hear the solenoid "click", I am pretty sure the problem is further up the line. I also tried switching out the battery from my other truck and still no dice. After giving it some more thought I am sure the problem must be something simple, from what little I know about electricity it would not spark unless that was the easiest path for it go something is no right. I have some heat shrink I am going to wrap around the first few cm of the wires that connect to the starter that will at least rule out the obvious. No question about though getting the starter out on the MT is much easier than the automatic, without having the AT lines in the way. Thanks for the replies, I will let you know how it goes!

While finishing up the install of my new engine into my 91, I installed a new starter. When I turned the key to fire it up the starter gave a click and split second of turning. When I tried it again there was only the "click". I double checked the connections and everything seemed tight and clean. I then checked the battery for charge and that checked out OK. I removed the "new" starter and reinstalled the original starter which worked fine the last time the vehicle ran. When I turned the key the same thing happened, click, click... I tested the "new" starter on the bench and it seemed to work fine on the bench. A buddy stopped by and I had him turn the key while I looked at the original starter. Now that I was outside the vehicle I could see that the "click" was accommpanied by some sparks around the starter when the ignition was turned. I then pulled the starter (again)to inspect the wires and contacts. Despite being oily (oil filter relocation kit is on the wish list) the wire housing seem to be in good shape with the exception of the thin wire that I think leads to the oil pressure sensor which I wrapped in electrical tape. Thinking I had found the problem, I reinstalled one of the starters and gave it another go...unfortunately with the same result..."click-zappp". I have inspected the negative cable that goes from the battery terminal behind the PS pump, it seems to be in good shape. The cable that leads to the starter from the positive terminal also appears to be fine. The connector that plugs in on top of the solenoid looks pretty rough but functioned fine last time the truck was running. I realize that something must be off or exposed to make the arc/spark but after looking everything over I am wondering if I missed attaching a ground wire somewhere else during the install. Any ideas? Sorry for the long post, but I am thinking I must have missed something simple, looking at this too closely.

Installed front diff, and re did the timing belt. Counted to 40 and 43 about 40 times...a serious case of timing belt OCD...?

If you are aligned properly it should connect without using bolts to draw them together. ( I read this somewhere) I ended up putting a jack under the trans to push it up to give me more room to work without the engine mounts hitting, then adjusted the engine hanging with the front up high and it slid in right onto the dowels, but it took a few tries to get it line up. Good luck!

Finally made some time and put the engine back in "Ol Blue". Managed to get the dowels lined up and tranny bolted to engine.

X2 on Precise comment re: the expansion I had a a gas smell when I brought my 95 inside in the winter from -40 outside to the heated garage (+10C).

Put on new clutch. t-stat, w-pump on my 91 (ol'blue), put engine back in the vehicle (not bolted in yet needs some wiggling). Went outside hopped in my 95 feeling pretty good about what I had accomplished and the starter gave me a "click click clickety click" (no suprise it had been acting up)...pulled starter in drive way, noticed a ridiculous amount of oil underneath (rear main seal???). Good times.

Hi I managed to turn the cam sprocket back so that I had 40 teeth between the two marks. replaced the belt, tensioner, seals and T-stat. It is all back together now, unfortunately I will have to wait until I get the engine back in the vehicle to see if it works. I will put the fly wheel and new clutch on tomorrow, and hopefully get the engine placed back in the vehicle. PS I was kidding about the tool throwing...but it was close!!

Thanks, verymuch.I went back out to look for the ratchet I threw and figured out that was really the only option. You are right on, it jumped about 1/8th of a turn. Time to get back at it!! Thanks again I needed to bounce that off someone!

Hi I just changed the cam seal on my 91. In the process of tightening the pulley bolt back on the RH pulley turned clockwise! This was not part of the plan, the screwdriver I had wedged in to secure the pulley apparently didn't do the trick. Question-What now? Can I turn the pulley by hand back into position so that the appropriate number of t-belt teeth are between the marks on the pulley without causing (further) damage?

Agreed, I am pretty sure any fluid back there is bad, either for the timing belt or something else. FYI the seals were 12 bucks each should be in a few days.

Are you using a fork or the or the threaded press kind of tool? If it is a "pickle" fork, you have to hit it pretty hard when they are stuck. If is is the threaded kind, put a bar on it and tighten it up, and then tighten it some more. Either way it should go. I have always been suprised at how much force is needed to unseat them.

Thanks much appreciated!!

Hi I just pulled the timing belt cover off the engine I am putting in my 91. The RH cam shaft seal is leaking. I found the part number in an old post and will order two in. Since both pulleys will need to come off I am wondering if anyone has suggestions on how to make sure the pulleys are positioned correctly when reinstalled. Will putting the engine at TDC, installing the pulleys and counting the teeth on the belt between the indicator marks do the trick? Any insight is appreciated.

Nice job, I like it.

I have a 31X10.5 spare on my 91, which has a regular hitch from CT and on my set up there is not enough (vertical) space between the bottom of the spare and the top of the ball to secure a coupling onto the ball without opening the tire carrier at some point. In most cases I just swing the carrier out of the way and connect and then close the carrier. On my boat trailer,the bow roller/winch- angle forward on the tongue and prevent the spare from closing if I swing it all the way open to connect. Even this is a minor inconvenience, I just swing the carrier open a little instead of all the way, back up, and proceed as normal and close it up once connected. Any other trailer (utility/yard/snowmobile) has let me swing the carrier open and connect as normal, as long as I remember to open the carrier 1/4-/1/3 of the way when I am backing up. Tongue jacks etc have never presented a problem. There are a lot of different configurations available for hitches, but I have never found it enough of a problem to merit changing any hard ware, worse case scenario I guess you could take the spare off and toss it in the trailer. Hope this helps!

Well, my clutch kit, t-belt/tensioner, water pump, and drive axles finally came in today...which is great except I will be not be able to get to any of it until next month. On the upside both my washer tanks still work great! At least they were...

Glad to hear you got it done, and got the answer on the boots. Just out of curiousity did you install the diff before, during, or after the engine?

Maybe you will have a better chance of getting a solid answer by starting a new topic about inner cv boots? It might catch the attention of an inner cv boot expert.

I think you need to take the plug out of the (diff side) end, and seperate the assembly inside to slide the boot off/on. Not sure if you need a press to seperate them though. I didn't do this on mine, I replaced the whole drive axle with boots since both ends were shot and time was a factor.

Thanks I didn't look under the oil pan removal, just the differential removal section. I will give it another try this weekend!

Even with the engine up about 10cm, it seems like the torsion bars (at least one side)need to be removed to lower the diff and slide it backward. It doesn't mention this in the FSM or Haynes.

Well you don"t mess around and got it out alright! Are you going to reinstall/raise up the tranny and drive shaft, and then lower the the diff so you can reinstall the engine? I just finished loosening the front diff, and exhaust on mine and hope to raise the engine up and drop the diff tomorrow. Did you have any problems seperating the engine from the transmission? If so, how did you seperate them? One more thing...how do you get your dog to stay stiil and hold all that stuff up (last pic)

I just started the to pull the engine out of my 91. The FSM and Haynes both say to leave the trans attached and I think I know why...the 5th bolt on the top of the tranny is ridiculous! Anyway the plan is to drop the front diff tomorrow evening after work. It looks like that will give plenty of room to get at the exhaust bolts on the drivers side, and let the oil pan clear (I hope). I have a low mileage replacement from a wrecked 95 waiting to go in. The manual says to use a sealant between the engine and the tranny during the install any suggestions on what to use? Thanks!

I hope that works out for you if not those radiant lamps have been around for years and are probably getting more and more efficient. I have one over my work bench and keep one mobile for thawing thngs out. It sounds like you do a fair bit of welding...do you think that might be also be related to the spikes in your hydro bills?