Kapoosta

Well there was quite a bit of ice (glare ice.. super slick!) last week on the roads so I know that I was locking up both wheels and never felt/heard the ABS kick in. I didn't find anything under my drivers seat, not even a random plug. I'm going to check for the actuator when I get home tonight. I wonder if the unit was removed and the plug hidden away under the carpet somewhere.. but wouldn't that turn the ABS light on?

Soooo... is there supposed to be a box under the drivers seat? Or is it under the carpet, under the drivers seat? I only see a heating vent under there.

Thanks. I'll check this out tomorrow. How exactly are the rear brakes adjusted for proper operation? I thought they were just pads on a caliper? (Sorry, I've only had this thing for a month so I'm still figuring it out)

I don't have an ABS light on and I checked my ECU codes and it was all clear. I also used diagnostic mode 4 to check the speed sensor and it was working properly. We recently had a huge snowfall here and so I've had the opportunity to really test my braking power and found that my ABS doesn't turn on or at least I don't think it's turning on. Am I wrong in assuming that when the ABS activates, you should be able to here the pulsing of the ABS unit and the ABS light should flash (just like every other vehicle I've had)? EDIT: The ABS light illuminates on start and goes off right away so I know the light isn't burned out.

After talking with my friend at the welding shop, he said that he'd rather due an engine & transmission swap than trying to mess with welding patches on. I have done a bit of research but most of the time people are either swapping the engine or the transmission by itself instead of both. I'm assuming it's not possible to remove the tranny and engine at the same time (I will have a crane to lift the engine out). So basically the plan is: 1. Disconnect all wires, tubes, air intake, etc from engine/transmission. 2. Remove radiator and shroud. 3. Remove drive line components 4. Unbolt transmission from engine and frame. 5. Remove transmission and TC (is it easier just to pull it back, remove engine, then remove tranny from the engine bay?). 6. Unbolt engine from frame and lift it out using crane. 7. Repeat on other vehicle and then install in reverse order. When transferring these components to the other vehicle, is it better to take the drive line components with it? On my other car I always marked the location of the drive components with respect to the tranny and diff so that I can mate them in the same configuration to avoid unbalancing issues. This is an automatic transmission by the way..

Much appreciated for the help. I do indeed have two PF's nearby that have blown engines/transmissions and are going for relatively cheap. Just have to go check out the condition of their frames. The only problem is I've never removed/installed a full engine before. I am also looking into patching it up. I used to work at a welding&machine shop so hopefully I can get someone to do me a favor.

Haha yes it does. Hmm.. that sounds like it may be even more difficult to change frames then. Maybe it's better to switch the engine, transmission, etc instead... still sounds like a lot of work.. especially with the first snow fall just around the corner.

Hello all, I recently had an inspection and found out that the rear subframe is rusted so much that it cannot pass inspection (metal is paper thin in some areas, cracks, etc). How hard is it to change out the subframe? There may be a parts car here in town that I can pull the subframe from but I'm not too sure how hard it would be to do this. Would it be easier to transfer the engine, transmission, etc. to the other vehicle instead of switching subframes? Thanks!