westslope

Replacing the sender is relatively straightforward. I managed it.

Guess no. 1: Your [rear] ABS brakes are working. Guess no. 2: Snow is a lousy surface for testing. Use a dry asphalt or a well-graded gravel road. Hit the brakes hard. You should feel the subtle vibration in the brake pedal.

This forum works without a hitch for me while using Opera 12.1 I never had an issue with previous versions of Opera on this web-site. Ergo, I suspect that you problems Trogdor636 stem from some issue on your computer. You should be constantly updating Flash Players. That should not be an issue. How much RAM do you have? Do you ever clear your web browser caches?

I have never off-roaded in an R50 but judging from the size, the WD-21 will work much better on overgrown skidder trails. If all your offroading is confined to semi-arid areas with sparse forest cover, then the size factor may not matter that much.

The 05-06 pathfinder have a radiator issue? Good to know. How are these pathfinders "eating oil"? Transpiration, leakage?

Thanks! I read that: Nissan has decided in the interest of customer satisfaction, to further extend the warranty for the Radiator Assembly on all 2005-10 Frontier, Pathfinder, and Xterra vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions. Good to know.

The wife is having difficulty using the clutch because of an issue with her left hip. So we require a vehicle with an automatic transmission. Only one really. so the 290,000 kilometre 1993 WD-21 pathfinder will likely be sold soon. But not until after we get the automatic shift replacement. I would be tempted to buy a 1995 WD21 pathie with an automatic shift if I could find one in reasonable condition. But we might need more towing power soon. The 4.0 litre engines of the 2005+ Xterras have more torque and are better at pulling. A used vehicle salesman showed me a 2005 pathfinder offroad version today. 140,000 km. Skid plates, silver grey, a little dirty, a tad rusty underneath. The salesman informed me that it was built on a truck chassis as opposed to a unibody construction. My impression from reading these fora is that the Xterra is still viewed as a more serious offroad vehicle than the 2005 and later pathfinder. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Update: I bought a cheap multimeter that allows me to measure current flow. I unhooked the positive terminal clamp and connected the positive terminal clamp to the positive battery terminal with the multimeter. The draw is 0.2 mA 0.2 milliamps isn't much. Ghost amp draws are not the problem. Good to know.

I found this post in Similar Topics that I missed earlier: Which Optima Battery? I read some good experiences with Optima batteries. MYPATH1's post here caught my attention. I paste a couple of entries: Yellow Top is a Deep cycle battery, Not moderate, full deep cycle. Deep cycles feature lower CCA ratings than same other batteries of the BCI group. But they do like repeated full drains, and typically are not as well adapted to constant charging like car applications (shortens their life not being able to drain) In the last 2 years optima has improved their deep cycles for use with constant charging applications so they last about as long as a starting battery. Also Pathy's start fine with low CCA's so if you wanna run a deep cycle for your stereo, winch or simply because you forget to turn your lights off allot then go ahead and do so.

I reckon that batteries are like tires and hiking boots. An expensive price tag usually buys quality and can buy more safety and durability making the expensive item cost effective over the full life of the item.

A few years ago, lead along with other base metals enjoyed a tremendous bubble in prices. That drove up the price of batteries that have been declining slowly since then. Or so I think I notice. ahardb0dy: 10 years, perhaps more, of automotive battery service? That's excellent. Divide by two for hard-pounding gravel roads? A lot of these companies sell hybrid cranking/deep cycle batteries. The money basically buys the consumer thicker plates or am I wrong about that?

That sounds about right. An empty deep cycle group 24 or group 27 battery could take in excess of 30 hours to fully charge. A trickle charge is always preferable.

BENEFITS OF THE YELLOWTOP®: Deep-cycle and cranking power Up to two times longer life More than 15 times the vibration resistance Completely spillproof, mountable in virtually any position Maintenance-free Faster recharging Optimal starting power 300+ discharge/recharge cycles

I believe the Sears Diehards are available here. I like the idea of the starter/deep cycle Optima Yellowtop. Only $30 more than the Red Top.

Precise1: You misunderstand. I understand perfectly well that the measured voltage drop is insignificant. Already load-tested. But I'm going to get myself a small amp-meter to measure the amp draw.

I didn't find anything googling around. But so far I observe 0.02 volt drops over 24 hours when the battery negative terminal is disconnected and 0.03 volt drops over 24 hours when the battery negative terminal is connected. Over 20 days, the measured voltage would drop by 0.4 or 0.6 volts. The battery measures 12.6 to 13+ volts immediately after it is shut off following a trip. I will continue to regularly measure the voltage. For now the 'problem' is intermittent. Perhaps I should just go ahead and replace all the battery cabling. (It looks fine.)

I'm experiencing some electrical issues which might be caused by the battery. Replacing the current battery soon looks a real possibility. I wanted to get an idea of folks' preferences for batteries that are used in Pathfinders that do hard, pounding gravel roads and off-road. Lead-acid? Gel? Sealed? Standard automotive? Deep cycle? Are there any brand names that stand out for reliability? One of the best batteries I ever used was a Trojan deep cycle marine battery (Group 27) though a lot of people seem to think that running a deep cycle battery in the 1993 stock pathfinder is not such a good idea. In case it is of relevance, I should point out that I use deep cycle marine batteries (now size Group 24) with a 52lb. thrust saltwater electric motor on a canoe. The current and possibly failing battery is a NAPA hybrid starter-deep cycle battery. I like the idea of paying more for thicker plates and, hopefully, greater longevity on rough, pounding roads. Must admit that I feel like I'm grasping at air when it comes understanding batteries..... Thoughts?

Something electrical is not right. The other day I measured just over 10 volts on the battery. But I was able to charge it back up with a 2 Amp trickle charger. An AVR test suggests that amperage, voltage and resistance are fine. The battery tests fine. Alternator puts out 70 amps. The starter demands 400 AMPs which is a little high. So the mechanic suggests I test for an internal short in the battery by unhooking the negative terminal and leaving it overnight. I did that. The voltage dropped over a day and half to 12.57 volts from 12.6 volts. Is that fast enough to constitute a battery short?

Thanks ahardb0dy. Your post and illustrations helped me get going. At least I knew there was a plan B. I originally thought of soldering the nut to soft wire but the neighbour's suggestions of duct tape and then a second wire seemed more promising. Replacing the second wire with fine nylon monofilament was the final step.

To get the fishing line in place, I pushed a length of softwire (80 GA) from the upper mount hole to lower part of the rear hatch that is accessible by removing the rear plastic panel that sits just below the window. Once pushed through, I tied on the nylon monofilament and pulled it through from the bottom of the hatch towards the top of the hatch (imagine that the hatch is closed). The fishing line was then in place to tie to the wire wrapped around the nut. Then I pulled the nut and attached wire through from the upper mount hole. The idea was to able to adjust the nut position by being able to pull the nut in both directions, not just be dependent on 'pushing' it with the wire. Once the ball bolt was threaded, I broke the fishing line and then used vice-grips to grab the soft wire and remove it from the now installed nut. Does this help? Ask away if you need more clarifications. Would love to have thoroughly documented the repair procedure with digital photos but was too busy trying to get the job done and not abuse my good neighbour's generosity.

Success! I managed to place the nut and thread it with some major help from the neighbour. Ultimately we wrapped the nut in 80 GA softwire, put a narrow strip of duct tape on to help hold the wire in place; then tied 1X tippet fishing line to the twisted wire and used that to help guide the nut into place where my neighbour skilfully managed to thread the ball bolt. I didn't take any during photos so these before and after pictures will have to do. Note that the nut looks like it was originally welded to the rear hatch frame. Note below the rubbed area above and slightly to the left. Must have done something to put a lot of torque on the strut. Perhaps when I drove into the carport with the bicycle still on the canoe racks..... The finished product. Soft-wire, duct tape and thin nylon monofilament fishing line. Hey! It Worked!!!! Closer up. That was the driver side strut. The passenger driver strut came out with no issues. The nut for the upper attachment simply stayed in place (as it should).

Thanks for reporting back. I suppose I fear that the pop rivets will become loose after a while. Closed up the vehicle last night and could hear the washer tumble to the bottom of the frame. This afternoon I removed the bottom plastic panel on the rear hatch and was able to retrieve the nut. How to attach is still requiring some thought.....

Help! I read this thread. I also read this earlier thread here: Rear hatch lift strut. Then I drove to Canadian tire and bought 2 aftermarket struts for about $33/each, and proceeded to remove the old ones. At the upper attachment point, the nut inside rear hatch frame became detached. I haven't lost it; it is there. I can move it around with a narrow long object like a narrow paint brush handle. I think I observe a small bead of weld on the nut where it might have been held against the frame originally. I dunno. My first preference is to somehow miraculously thread the new ball into the nut. Perhaps crazy glue the nut to the inner frame; let it dry and hope that is strong enough to allow me to at least initiate the thread on the nut. Otherwise, the pop rivet route might be necessary. No welding equipment here. How's your connection holding up ahardb0dy?

I have been running NAPA Gold air filters in the pathie for a few years. But recenty, I could not be bothered driving all the way to NAPA store in Langley so I bought a FRAM Toughguard "premium air filter" at Canadian Tire. The toughguard has a coasted media and holds twice as much dirt as a less expensive FRAM air filter. (Note, this is NOT a FRAM oil filter.) I could not help noticing the similarities in design and construction with the NAPA Gold air filter. The Gold air filter is not coated but everything else looks almost identical. Are all these paper air filters manufactured in the same plant in Mexico? Just curious.

The answer depends on how you live. If the credit card is maxed and you are living hand-to-mouth, then costly extended warranties might be worthwhile. Otherwise, insurance is always costly and self-insurance is ALWAYS cheaper (positive cash balances, maintenance and repair savings accounts, better yet, a bunch of dividend-paying blue-chip stocks or MLPs). There is no free lunch. American taxpayers are about to learn that lesson after this coming presidential election, no matter who is elected.