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sewebster

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Everything posted by sewebster

  1. As long as you didn't do anything too crazy to them you don't even have to call them or anything, just go on their website and fill out the return type with the reason being "didn't fit" and send them back for a refund...
  2. The only thing I find weird is that I have never experienced any of the usual "pulsation" that comes with "normal" ABS. Anyone know if the pathy system is different somehow (other than being rear only)?
  3. Repainted the rear window defroster lines, again. Fingers crossed that the fix lasts this time... at least I've gone from two working to two broken so far!
  4. Yeah, mine used to be broken too. Ended up being a big annoyance to fix.
  5. Less weight = better performance and fuel economy. Could be illegal in some jurisdictions?
  6. I guess you don't use your e-brake much? Not even in emergencies?
  7. Rock Auto sells universal kits: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1929930
  8. Is the VG30E missing from the engine options in the chart? Seems like VG33E is listed twice...
  9. My MPG since I started keeping track in late 2010 is 14.6. 5800 miles in that time period.
  10. I do have ABS, and have basically never noticed it, even when trying to make it work. You can look and see if you have a speed sensor on your rear diff. It's on the front side, where the driveshaft goes in. If you have wires coming out of there, you should have ABS. It's rear only, FYI.
  11. Discovered that ALL MY REAR DEFROSTER LINES FINALLY WORK!
  12. It's always a good idea to count the teeth on the belt (several times) regardless of what the marks say. "The teeth do not lie." (as long as the belt has the right number of teeth). Still nice when the marks line up though and helps get it in the right place the first time!
  13. Painted some more rear defroster lines... I really hope they all work now... Installed my gauge pod! Now all I need is gauges!
  14. Drilled the holes and installed. Bottom hole is a pain. Need to enlarge the countersinks in the pod so the screws sit all the way in. Fit is ok. Definitely a gap on the back side, but I doubt I'll bother fixing it. Might have been able to get the trim to line up better at the top, but it's somewhat difficult to figure out exactly how to drill to achieve that. Colour match is good.
  15. Hmm, so, I'm looking at the back of the gauge pod... and there's like no room in there. I guess we won't be able to use any gauges that rely on a spin on ring to hold them from the rear? Not sure if you could fit those u-bracket things either. To anyone who has installed gauges in the pod... what was your attachment mechanism? Push em in, hope they don't fall out?
  16. Hmm, now I'm thinking about the Glowshift Max Tow series... dimmable, has digital readout, uses a higher quality pressure sender for oil pressure... if only it were red instead of green... I think I might be obsessing about this for a while yet...
  17. I removed my old trim piece today... so that's progress! As for the dimming, I forgot to mention that it seems most of the gauges I'm looking at seem to be LED lit, rather than incandescent, so you can't just put them on the dimmer circuit like usual. Now looking at Speedhut Gauges too, but they cost more... customizable colours etc for no charge though. Ugh, don't want to spend a fortune
  18. I'm thinking of ordering Prosport Evo series gauges... any comments? I want to be able to adjust the brightness (these apparently have a screw to turn on the back) so I don't blind myself at night... I also want to be able to read the oil pressure in the low end (per our discussion above). These have a digital display of the number, so in theory it should be somewhat better than squinting at a needle near zero. Bonus is they have a celsius water temp gauge for us Canadians Not so sure I like the _all_ digital display though, seems like if I turn the brightness down for night, then I might have a hard time during the day... HMMM. Part of the problem with some of the "good" oil pressure gauges is they tend towards a higher maximum reading (e.g. 150 psi) which makes it harder to see the needle near zero.... and our trucks basically never go above 75, because there is the regulator valve in the oil pump.
  19. Ok here are some pics (pod just held in place by hand over the old one). Colour match looks pretty good, but its hard to tell by headlamp, have to see it in the day for the final verdict. Generally fairly pleased so far! Colour looks great in the one pic and a bit off in the other, but hard to get the lighting right.
  20. Got mine! Haven't had a chance to take it out to the truck yet, will post again when I do re paint match etc.
  21. Probably obvious, but when my EGR wasn't working the reason turned out to be that I had the vacuum line hooked up to the wrong place. There are a bunch of little tubes over there that are basically the same... but presumably you've though of that
  22. It actually does seem tighter now! Hope it's not just in my mind. Maybe I should try some #3 or #4 grease in there. The other idea is to add a draw bar latch to the other side of the truck that connects to an extension on the carrier. By the way, if it isn't obvious, I have a 31" tire on there, so the extra weight is an issue.
  23. Cross sectional area is what matters. If the outlet into the exhaust system is 2.5" then that is an area of 2.5^2*3.14/4= 4.91 square inches. A 2" pipe has 2^2*3.14/4= 3.14 square inches. So since the 2" area is more than half the 2.5" area, there is no problem, it is not a restriction.
  24. Shouldn't be any problem with an electronic fan only being on part of the time. So it sounds to me like your 170F thermostat is working fine? So you should be alright in terms of not damaging anything by having the engine too cold or whatever. Now you can find and go with 180F if you want to run a little warmer, but that won't help you heat up faster or anything...

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