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sewebster

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Everything posted by sewebster

  1. Mine opens and swings no problem. The only problem is the bad wobbling noise when I got over speed bumps. I think I actually I had a post on here earlier and the conclusion was that I need to investigate my latch and the support plate. I just haven't done it yet
  2. From my experience, beware oversized aftermarket replacement lifters... I had some jam and ruin my cams (and fill my engine with metal shavings). I had to order several dozen before I got 12 that were within factory tolerances (use a micrometer and the spec is in the FSM).
  3. Lubed the spare tire carrier.... kinda hoping it tightens up a bit. Already did the rebuild a year or two ago and it seems like it might be dying again... sigh (and I have been lubing it every once in a while with grease...). Post above got me thinking about using my spare rear-window-glass struts as hood openers....
  4. I haven't gotten mine yet either. I wonder if they are doing the different colours in batches...
  5. For most instruments, the accuracy is given in a percentage of full scale. So, if someone told me they had a 100 psi gauge with 5% accuracy, I'd assume that it was the reading, plus or minus 5 psi. Which is pretty terrible. Now, that's not what they said, but I'm not sure I trust them But, for an automotive gauge like this, it isn't exactly super critical most of the time.... actually, it's the other thing they said that I don't really like... "above 5 psi." That's my problem with my current gauge, at very low pressures it's basically meaningless. It essentially says zero from 0-15 psi. I'm guessing the autometer one is at least a little better... Most mechanical gauges use a bourdon tube design. If you buy an industrial style one you'll have a hard time finding something worse than 2.5% accuracy* (of full scale). So for a 100 psi gauge that's plus or minus 2.5 psi. They make them to much better accuracy as well, but usually only in larger dial sizes (where you can actually it read accurately). * Actually, they are most often quoted as 3-2-3%, which means they have 3% accuracy in the lower third of the scale, 2% accuracy in the middle third, and 3% accuracy in the upper third, all of full scale. I was thinking of getting a stainless braid covered teflon line, even then I'm a little worried about the tube failing, not any time soon, but 10 years down the line or something, because that will be a bad day....
  6. Yeah, I agree. At one point I tested mine and I think it only turned on around 2 psi or something. But having it too high is also useless, because then you just end up ignoring it. I think something like 6 psi would be good, but I'm not entirely sure how the "normal" oil pressure varies with VG30 age etc etc. This is all part of why I want an accurate gauge...
  7. Just an FYI on electrical sender oil pressure units. I own one (a cheap "Equus" brand)... and it's terrible.. it is not accurate. It does go up and down as the pressure goes up and down, but you can't trust what the numbers say. If anyone knows of a source of electrical oil pressure gauges that have a rated accuracy, I'd be interested. I deal with pressure gauges at work all the time, and they have all kinds of accuracy ranges, but none of the automotive ones seem to say anything other than "very accurate." The one I bought actually had two outputs, one for the gauge, and one for the dummy light. Except that the dummy light signal came on at around 12 psi... so it was coming on a lot for me, even though idle oil pressures below 12 psi are fine for the VG30E (8 psi is the normal value, it's in the FSM). Obviously you can just use the stock dummy light sender on a tee to solve this problem! I was going to put in an industrial gauge using an oil filled line, but they don't come in the automotive 2 1/16" size. Might just make a 2" one fit...
  8. Ah, makes sense to go for the voltmeter then if you don't have one at all!!!
  9. Do you guys not have voltmeters in your dash, or are you just unhappy with the stock one (is it inaccurate?) I was thinking oil pressure, vacuum, and engine temp. The stock temp gauge seems fairly unresponsive...
  10. Yikes, those stainless ones are pricy! Though I probably spent that much in gas driving all over the place finding the right parts...
  11. Do you mean that they sent it to the wrong address, or just that you didn't update it?
  12. I think I already put together my whole BSPT/NPT tee/adapter set up. Though I should find where I put it now that the pillars are on the way...
  13. You should be able to feel the EGR valve move (on the bottom) when you rev the engine. Don't burn yourself. Play around with it when cold to see how it feels.
  14. Weld an allen key in there? Or just drill and use a screw extractor, though breakage is a distinct possibility...
  15. I can't seem to edit my old posts, but here is a fixed link to the spreadsheet and the screenshots. http://sewebster.com/gearmaster.xls kilometres: miles:
  16. Hmm. Well, what actually matters is how far your truck moves for one tire rotation... the "circumference" of the tire. This probably isn't going to change as much due to squishing as the distance from the axle to the ground.
  17. I haven't done any frame repairs, but... real rust isn't doing anything structurally, so you don't have to worry about "cutting it out" but if you are actually cutting, and not just knocking off with a chipping hammer or whatever, then maybe you are really just removing metal with rust on it. Anyway, maybe you see what I'm getting at... don't feel bad about removing stuff that is truly totally useless. I'd probably do whatever makes it easiest for you to make the repair. Often you remove rust so you can find where it ends and you then weld to the good metal. You need to find good metal regardless, so it kindof sounds like it's pretty much the same thing, just a decision of whether to get rid of the junk before you put the plate on. My guess is that it really isn't going to make much difference in the end. As long as you are doing a good repair job, I'd probably lean towards getting rid of the junk... less place for dirt to build up and cause more rust etc.
  18. Also, FYI, there is a separate ABS diagnostic code procedure in the FSM, it tells you exactly why the ABS light has come on... In my case it was the speed sensor that had died. Replaced it and the light went out. I've still never noticed the ABS working though... tried locking stuff up, but never felt anything. Shrug.
  19. I had thought the opposite... that the wheels would be more prone to locking up when there was no weight on them... just like how you get wheelspin in a pickup when there is nothing in the bed... no traction...
  20. Yup, there is an inspection procedure in the FSM.
  21. Yeah, I've done it, went fine, but lots of stuff to take of to get there. It's all been explained above and it sounds like you've come to your decision anyway!
  22. Yeah, I'm thinking more and more that maybe that is the problem. Thanks.
  23. Maybe that's it!!!!!! It's not really very bad right now, only when I go over certain bumps. It's just worse than right after I fixed it. I did just lube up my latch mechanism, maybe that is related. I wonder if it is wobbling around somehow on the latch or the support plate closer to the hinge... hmm.
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