sewebster

I actually took one of these resonators out of the pick a part and installed it on my truck. Was wondering if I'd notice a sound difference. I didn't. But the hole in the box is plugged now! I guess if it ever gets annoying I'll take it off and plug the hole some other way...

I just tension it to what seems good and hang a 10 kg bag of water off the belt and measure the deflection to check (after rotating the engine a couple times).

Looks fine to me (I guess I mean that it looks better than what I did to mine .

Thanks guys!

WOW

All my trim seems to be the same colour... any guesses? Dark grey? Light grey? Brownish grey?

What needs to be machined depends on the condition on what you have... the things I had the machine shop do when I did my rebuild were: bore and hone cylinders (I think I went 0.5 mm over, though this was mostly because it was easier for me to source those pistons), deck heads, regrind valve seats. I think I spent most of the time in my rebuild doing inspection, which required quite a lot of precision equipment... numerous micrometers, telescoping gauges, dial indicator and stand etc. Specs are in the FSM... In the end though, I think I spent WAY too much doing a full rebuild. Unfortunately if you replace everything you should, it costs a lot. I also got burned by not replacing the oil pump and then having to do it later. It was a super instructive experience though, so I'm not sure I actually regret it... just an expensive education.

No problem. It would be nice to get some confirmation of the numbers. I'm pretty confident I did the calculations correctly though. Just went through it again... the numbers do seem a bit lower than I seem to remember from when I drive around. Really don't see how they could be wrong though. Here is the calculation for the bottom table: RPM = SPEED(MPH) * GEAR_RATIO * TRANSFER_RATIO * DIFF_RATIO / Pi / TIRE_DIA(INCHES) / 2.54(cm per inch) * 100(cm per metre) * 1000(m per km) / 60(mins per hour) * 1.61 (km per mile) In this case then: 2864 = 70 * 0.862 * 1 * 4.375 / 3.14159 / 31 / 2.54 * 100 * 1000 / 60 * 1.61 I wonder if one of the gear ratio numbers is wrong in the FSM or something.

Well, I wouldn't worry too much at this point. Since you have a manual transmission there isn't really any way that your engine can be turning faster than it "should" unless your clutch is slipping. I assume that if your clutch were slipping that much that you would smell it So, there are four possibilities I see: clutch slipping, gear ratios/tire sizes different than expected, measurement error on speed or RPM, spreadsheet error.

Wrong speedo gear? If you have the gear for the 29" tires then when your speedo says 70 it really means 75. But 75 still shouldn't be 3500 rpm. Presumably there is either an error in the spreadsheet, or something wrong with your speedo or tach. Not too helpful, I know. Are you sure you have 4.3 gears?

Can't beat the selection at Rock Auto. I ship it to the US and drive across to pick it up though. Doesn't work so well if you are far from the border unfortunately...

I have a couple extra EGR valves from the pick-a-part if that is helpful somehow...

I'm not entirely convinced that the VG30E is advanced enough to actually increase efficiency with EGR, but I certainly wouldn't delete it if it is still working properly. I could see disabling it if you had a problem (clogged valve or something), but even then it would be ideal to keep in order to reduce NOx emissions (though I'm not sure how much it helps with that for the VG30 either).

There are 3 fasteners to remove. The big nut on the end and the two bolts holding the rod to the control arm. The big nut is a pain, but I think tends to be less of an issue since it tightens against the rubber. You can use an imperial wrench (15/16" I believe) on this nut. I'm guessing you are having trouble with the other two bolts though. Personally I used a 3/4" ratchet (which is quite large) and an adapter to 1/2" drive. These are probably expensive but I use it all the time when working on my truck. Basically never fails to undo a nut or bolt (or breaks it). But I would think the impact should work too.... the trick with the small electric ones is to keep trying. When I first used my electric impact on a tough bolt (maybe the crank pulley bolt?) I had to let it run, hammering away) for about 5 minutes or something that seemed like a REALLY long time, but it came off in the end! Other than that, you can try heat. Get a torch and heat the part you are trying to undo (the nut presumably) up to red hot, and then take it off. You should really replace anything you get this hot afterwards... which means being careful with the control arm, or possibly replacing the tension rod too (though they aren't so bad to replace). Oh, and of course, the obvious, soak in PB Blaster or other TRUE penetrant (not WD-40). Good luck!

When I did it there was a big difference with lube, probably I personally wouldn't pull it out again to check, because I kinda think there is just a small chance of tearing each time you put it in. Or maybe there is just a big chance with no lube, and no chance with lube. I used astroglide because I didn't know whether to use oil, but maybe Precise is right about the gas being about the same as oil theory. Man, this post could probably be easily misinterpreted.

Could be useful: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31801&st=0&p=599704

I had my injectors cleaned and tested for about $25 each. One was not up to spec after that and I replaced it with a Nissan one at extreme cost because I was in a rush. Then I tore an o-ring reinstalling and had a cylinder fill with fuel. So my biggest advice is to use some sort of rubber compatible lube when pushing the injectors back in and be gentle.

Use a voltmeter (with the defroster on). Put one lead on one of the supply lines on the side, then slowly move the other lead down the defroster line. Where it switches from 12V to 0V, that's where the break is.

I'm not sure the gauge is entirely linear...

At stock height the rear stabilizer bar should be "flat." That is, the ends of it, where the links attach, should be parallel to the ground.

When I bought my truck the pistons in the rear calipers were basically totally worn away. Yes, it was that bad. Rotors were basically half eaten through. I don't understand where the possible thread damage is with the harmonic balancer??? Just slide it on then put the big bolt through and tighten? Although, now that I think about it... the first time I took it off I had to use a puller, but since then it just goes on and off by hand no problem. Maybe if it is tight going on you can't thread the big bolt in properly...

I dunno, I think I would way rather have a colour matched one... finding the right paint, dealing with peeling paint later etc. sounds like a hassle to me.

I have a 20 ton bottle jack in the back of my truck for changing tires. I think it was $50. The load rating is clearly total overkill, but the lift range is what I need to be able to change any of the tires and lift the truck in a useful way. It's a little heavy, but not too big. I use a floor jack for home repair, usually either lifting off the front crossmember or rear diff (of course with jackstands after it's jacked).

Just an FYI, I think most people end up running 75W90 gear oil in their differentials because it is much easier to find than 80W90. Personally I think this is fine...

Looks like it'll buff out.