sewebster

Right, I get that the ECU can adjust the timing advancing or retarding as required. However, doesn't it use the crank angle sensor position to know how to do this? My understanding is that the ECU assumes that where you set the distributor at idle = 15 BTDC and then adjusts based on that assumption. The sensor plate with the holes in it is attached to the distributor shaft and rotates, and the sensor itself that "sees" the holes is fixed to the distributor body. I guess I'll think about it some more, but I think the ECU needs to know the engine position to do it's job, and the only way it knows that is by the distributor (and therefore crank angle sensor) position. Further evidence is that when I set my distributor 180 degrees off the ignition timing was so far off that I blew up my muffler

You can only really lower the front diff less than an inch...

I agree that the ECU controls the ignition timing... but I am saying that it uses the crank angle sensor (or camshaft position sensor) to know the position of the engine. This is what it says in the FSM (EC & EC 11 in the 94 FSM). I don't think there are any other sensors that do the same thing... Anyway, I don't think this is particularly relevant to the problem at hand.

Take the exhaust pipe off, cut the wires off, put a deep socket on it. Put a big ratchet on it etc.

This is wrong. Rotating the distributor rotates the crank angle sensor. It's the only way the ECU knows what position the engine is at. It then decides when to fire the spark plugs. The distributor position isn't critical for that (spark firing) since the contacts are so wide, but it is critical for the position sensor. I think there are only like 4 positions to install the crank pulley in, so it would be off by more than 7 degrees? Maybe 6 positions, nevertheless, a lot more. The crank sprocket can't be installed incorrectly, it is keyed. However, if your timing belt was installed improperly then all bets are off. I would check that I guess.

This is a good point. My crank pulley has 7 marks and 15 is the middle mark as well.

I bet you have done it correctly. I think there are 13 teeth on the distributor gear, so if you are off a tooth you move it by like 28 degrees or something. It sounds like you have it on the right tooth because you can get it to 15 BTDC. Personally I would put it there and find the problem. I think the crank pulley has only a few positions it will go on, so if you were off there it would be way more wrong. Make sure you have the pickup on the #1 plug though

Shouldn't really matter if he's using a timing light to measure it, right? Putting the distributor in wrong will just prevent you from getting to the timing you need. If you can get it to 15 deg BTDC then it should be in the correct position.

I don't think it is all that hard to get 2 bad alternators. But the tester should tell you whether it is good or not. If the tester says it is good then it is worth looking for other problems.

Should be 15. is your crank pulley on right? Could be some other issue that is changed by going to 22 I guess.

I paid the $30 or whatever for a manifold gasket at the dealer once, but it was basically identical to the aftermarket ones. The other exhaust gaskets seem way more different (and worth the extra cost).

Well, the duratracs have the snowflake symbol and I believe the latest BFGs do not, so that might tell you something.

Rockauto has them for $1 each. Dealer should have them too.

It's pretty hard to drill off center when you have the previous holes there to guide you... also, I don't think the water jacket is really THAT close. But it IS in there somewhere, so you can't just go drilling into your heads all over the place. Basically you're just removing 1 mm of material all around the hole. It isn't too much. I drilled with the heads on the engine after I rebuilt it, but the engine was on an engine stand. I did end up replacing the head gaskets again later due to some valve problems, but that was unrelated. You're going to want to have the heads attached to something solid when you drill them of course. Things could be more complicated if the engine is in the truck. Anyway, I'm not really trying to convince you to upsize your studs! I think it is a good idea because, for me, I'd hate to have to goof around with my studs and then do it again later, but I'm not sure if this is the best plan for you. As I said above, it was easier with the engine on the stand.

"suck to live in hawaii" interesting

There's a difference from returning a clean "new" alternator and returning 5 busted old dirty ones. This is all making me think I should buy one of those ludicrous expensive green alternators from rugged rocks.

Cool. Good to know that you can get them separately.

Short somewhere to the wire? I think the sensor for the light is different from the regular level gauge, so it could be a problem with the specific sensor as well.

Absolutely.

Yeah, I drilled and tapped my heads for 10mm. But some of the threads in my heads were stripped, so it was that or helicoil. I don't regret my decision at all, though I still need to grind one of the manifolds a bit to be able to get a socket on easily.

You only get one shot at warranty? Isn't that like illegal or something?

Personally I would upgrade the size, but if I were to stick with M8 I'd definitely use the best grade possible. Probably I'd buy the Z ones from the dealer.

Well, they are just bushings, BUT you only need one set to do the whole truck, so if you like the black ones better, just use those!

Is the voltage slowly rising? Anyway, if you were reading 19V at your battery before with the old alternator, then that is bad... maybe something got busted? Of course, I guess you are asking what that could be...

It's really impossible to diagnose from pictures like that. If your cap is old, just replace it, they should be cheap. If it IS actually bad then it could cause all kinds of problems. While removing the neg battery terminal is good practice for almost anything, I certainly wouldn't sweat it in your case It's mostly just so that if you touch something live with a tool that you don't accidentally short it to ground.