DarkDragon

back to life.... I have not fixed the problem. I followed the schematics, and I have power and ground where I need it to be. I am thinking that the flasher arm is bad. but when I turn the signal to the on position the flasher relay starts to buzz. almost like it getting constant power. I replace it with a new one from auto zone, and my emergency flashers work, but my individual signals won't. I did however found a burnt wire strip on the back of the cluster that leads to the speedo gauge. I am going to guess, that's why my speedo is jumping all over the place. yet this wire strip does not lead into any of the turn signals. I am also getting pulse voltage from the harness to the cluster. again, my 4-ways will light up if I press the button. should I use my account and spend $53 on a new turn signal switch? no returns on electrical parts, so kinda sketchy about buying it at the moment. if you guys have any other ideas on where to look, please, i'm all ears.

Will try with the schematics. That's one of my weakest point in automotive.lol

Ok, I have been at it for about 6 months now. More like 3 weeks…. Anyways, all this started when I was testing the climate control wiring… whoops, it was the blower motor that went bad. At first, the signals were acting weird, by having the oil and battery light come on. Then they go out and the signals start to work. Then all of a sudden, a buzzer goes off under the dash and the battery and oil light come back on and no turn signals. My emergency 4way still work. After reviewing several forums, google, and bing, I have unplugged the buzzer relay, nothing works. Not even the 4way. I replace it with the same part number IF332, and nothing works. I put back the old one, and the buzzer works, oil light and battery light come on, 4way works, but no turn signal. Please help. I ran out of ideas. Thank you.

this is old. yet it's my turn now. 2 studs on the driver and 1 on the passenger that i can see. i already have the pacesetter headers ready. other than getting this dam studs drilled out, how did you get the egr off? i spent about an hour trying with pb and small torch. i just gave up and and reinstalled the y-pipe and left. already spent 10 hours welding the frame on the rear of the truck. now is this issue i have to take care of. tony r.

i think i got it... sorry i did not get any codes on the ecu when i did this on saturday. anyways, saturday morning, i went back to that electronic shop and told them that their recommendation of a bad maf was wrong and they need to put it on the invoice they gave me stating that the maf did not help the cause. i went back to napa and returned the maf. they tried to give me the run around about returning the maf since i was a private buyer. i told napa that i went the the electronic shop they recommended and i have the invoice from them stating that i needed a maf, and underneath stating maf did not help. napa took the maf back as defective and gave me a refund. i then go ahead and order both coolant temp sensors and a t-stat. i go to the junk yard and pull an ecu and gauge cluster. at the yard, i swapped both coolant sensors and the ecu. drive 40 miles and swap the gauge cluster but kept my original speedo. 100 miles later, i am doing good with no more stumbling. so in other words, what i did: both coolant temp sensors ecu gauge cluster "no problem" I HOPE... i just opened the old ecu, but i could not notice anything in there being burned or slight discoloration. i may just swap it back to see it is the actual ecu. ------------------ no for some suspension work. tony r.

Check out my thread in the alt swap problems. Its a voltage problem that does not want to get fixed. I think i got it, but i have to a drive cycle first. Will update my thread tomorrow night to make sure it got fixed.

tried that today along with a new maf. also put the stock intake kit back in. still no luck. anything else. oh yeah, took it to an electronic shop and they charged me 90bux to tell the maf was bad. yes on limp mode it drove fine, but as soon as i turned on the lights, it stalled. any suggestions?

did a battery load test as well on the new battery just to cover my muddy feet. the test came back as a "GOOD" battery. as moving to the arctic, it defeats the porpuse, as i have a to turn the heater on. if i cant figure it out by saturday i am going to trade it in for a new dealer car. i looked at my chart for maintenance and repairs, and i spend a little over 4k on just parts.

does it when it warms up. no it's not the o2, i changed that as well. plus, with the bad o2 the car would just stall out from idle. it currently idles for about 20-30 minutes before i go into drive and then it starts to stumble. 1- new battery and new alternator. took the new alternator back to advance and it passed. cant find anyone local to do this alt load test. 2- no, i just added a 4ga wire from the battery to the stud on the alternator with a 80a maxi fuse. i did however, removed all the fuse links from the battery area and ran multiple 12ga wire in place of the fuselinks. kinda looks like fuselinks. 3- i thought it was low rpms, but no one makes a smaller pulley to spin the alternator faster. it idles as 1150rpms. the tb and the maf has been cleaned out back in early october. 4- voltage is 14.53v. turn on the light or the heater and it stumbles. voltage drops dramaticlly to 12.9v and the car shuts off. if i keep everything off, and try to drive the car, its all good. no problem. going to have to move to a tropical place where the sun is out 24-7 so i wont have to turn on the lights or the heater.

Update- Ok, I bought an alternator wiring kit as it was cheaper than just buying individual wires. I removed the fuse links from the battery port and added a multiple 14ga wires where it needed to be. I ran the 4ga wire from the battery with the 80a fuse directly in line with the dual white wire at the back of the alternator. The charging system works a little better. Max voltage is 14.46 alone, with the lights on, or the heater fan on. When everything is on and makes a full load and put the Path into drive, the voltage dips into 12.8v and the car starts to stumble. I know in the FSM, the white/black wire from the battery goes to a circuit breaker. Anyone knows where this is located. Here is a sketch of what I copied to what I have done and some numbers for your information. Any other help would be much appreciated as this did not fix my problem. It just placed a band-aid. Tony R.

did that. going to rewire the chraging system and remove the fuse links from the battery. let see what happens then. will post an update on monday. going to try this tomorrow. tony.

bringing this back up as i still have the same problem. WTF is this. a 3rd alternator not working. and this one is for a 95 path. WTF, WTF, WTF..... please help, i am lost and getting ready to sell if i cant figure it out. pritty much putting money on it if i cant even drive it from here to the store without it stalling out. thanks, tony

Think I got it fixed. Had to purchace a new 95 path alt. Everything was charging as it should. I got my refund on the max alt, and used that to purchase the path alt. So looks like I cannot do the swap in my path unless I get a smaller pulley made for the maxima alternator. Tony R.

-was not running properly. on occasion it would just stall out. did an alt load test and failed. -i have after market intake setup. no need to remove it. it was easier from the bottom anyways. -2 crap rebuilds that did the same thing. except this one did not fail the test. kinda hard to get 2 ****** alts -today it did the same. when reved up it charged then it stayed at 14.5v at idle.

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=RAL138505_0209574387&An=0&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=RAL138505_0209574387&An=0&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=RAL138505_0209574387&An=0&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29