sewebster

Just got finished replacing the gas tank on a Corolla today... Anyway, I'm not sure that is your problem... it doesn't look too bad to me... shrug.

I just bought a new o-ring from the dealer recently, so they still sell them. I asked specifically about a gasket but they had no idea. Another good reason to have an oil pressure gauge...

You don't need to remove anything but the fan. Just four nuts need to come off, 10 mm wrench works, fan can slip out of the shroud. I wouldn't worry about the torque too much... I just put mine on at a reasonable torque and I've never had it loosen. Take the fan off, reinstall the nuts (might need washers), they hold the pulley on. Then run the engine. If your noise is gone, it was the fan clutch. Don't run it long because you have no air cooling (or at least watch the temp gauge).

It won't idle down until it's warm, but maybe you already got it fully warmed up. Vacuum leak? Also, on the MPFI pathfinders anyway, there is a relief screw on top of the plenum to help fill the coolant (lets the air out). Found out about that tidbit on this board!

Those bushings aren't likely to be too easy to change by the way. I think you're going to need to do some work to get the old ones out. Unfortunately they don't drop the diff all that much, but every bit helps. I don't have them by the way, so take this with a grain of salt.

Is there play in your u-joints? They could possibly still be bad if there isn't, but if there is play then you know they need to be replaced.

Right... I'm not sure that that wire is actually connected to the sensor.. you can see from the diagram that the knock sensor itself is apparently grounded...

Doing this right is going to cost almost as much as a cooler I think... or at least half as much or something... so you might want to just wait a couple months and save up for the cooler and do it all then.

Is the dome light switch only with one door, or all doors? If only one door (like the drivers) then it could just be the switch that detects whether the door is open.

The o-ring is the standard part for my 91 too. I also recall someone talking about a gasket though? Maybe at some point they switched to a gasket instead of an o-ring... but I certainly don't know the details.

I think he has a TBI pathy, so probably not the same as our MPFI versions... When I hear "fuel cut" I think of the cutoff of fuel when you are off the throttle at above idle RPM...

I'm surprised it's so cheap personally...!

Not starting seems like it could be the switch... but what about the no reverse lights... isn't that a different circuit that is also apparently now broken?

I was thinking that they didn't need to be 10.9 for the shim washers either...

Personally I wouldn't have even thought to worry about the washers... maybe that's wrong somehow...

Hehe, love the towing of the engine stand.

From the diagram it seems to me like there should be one white wire with shielding around it... so probably the bare wire.

Well, they should fix what is paid for. If it's on the invoice and it isn't fixed then they are scamming you or your insurance company. Whether or not you keep going back probably depends on whether it is worth your hassle or whether you want them to still be working on your truck...

94 FSM, EF+EC 137 there is a simple diagnostic. You measure resistance to ground off of a pin on some sub-harness. Also EF+EC 129 says pin 27 of the ECU (knock sensor pin) should have about 2.5 volts with engine idling.

You should replace the auto pilot bearing with the manual pilot bushing...

I believe that theoretically the carbon canisters can last forever... meaning that that ability of the charcoal to absorb and release gas vapours does not diminish over time. Of course they can die for a variety of reasons, so in practice they have a lifetime. If yours is dead, you can buy a new one, replace all the lines etc.

It's a safety thing... you probably wouldn't be interested....

There is a procedure in the FSM for removing the oil pan... most of it is removing the front diff. Beginning of the EM section in my 91 manual. Might help. I have personally done it without removing either the t-bars or cross member.

I think it's in the electrical "EL" section of the FSM. Download link stickied in the garage section.