sewebster

Is there play in your u-joints? They could possibly still be bad if there isn't, but if there is play then you know they need to be replaced.

Right... I'm not sure that that wire is actually connected to the sensor.. you can see from the diagram that the knock sensor itself is apparently grounded...

Doing this right is going to cost almost as much as a cooler I think... or at least half as much or something... so you might want to just wait a couple months and save up for the cooler and do it all then.

Is the dome light switch only with one door, or all doors? If only one door (like the drivers) then it could just be the switch that detects whether the door is open.

The o-ring is the standard part for my 91 too. I also recall someone talking about a gasket though? Maybe at some point they switched to a gasket instead of an o-ring... but I certainly don't know the details.

I think he has a TBI pathy, so probably not the same as our MPFI versions... When I hear "fuel cut" I think of the cutoff of fuel when you are off the throttle at above idle RPM...

I'm surprised it's so cheap personally...!

Not starting seems like it could be the switch... but what about the no reverse lights... isn't that a different circuit that is also apparently now broken?

I was thinking that they didn't need to be 10.9 for the shim washers either...

Personally I wouldn't have even thought to worry about the washers... maybe that's wrong somehow...

Hehe, love the towing of the engine stand.

From the diagram it seems to me like there should be one white wire with shielding around it... so probably the bare wire.

Well, they should fix what is paid for. If it's on the invoice and it isn't fixed then they are scamming you or your insurance company. Whether or not you keep going back probably depends on whether it is worth your hassle or whether you want them to still be working on your truck...

94 FSM, EF+EC 137 there is a simple diagnostic. You measure resistance to ground off of a pin on some sub-harness. Also EF+EC 129 says pin 27 of the ECU (knock sensor pin) should have about 2.5 volts with engine idling.

You should replace the auto pilot bearing with the manual pilot bushing...

I believe that theoretically the carbon canisters can last forever... meaning that that ability of the charcoal to absorb and release gas vapours does not diminish over time. Of course they can die for a variety of reasons, so in practice they have a lifetime. If yours is dead, you can buy a new one, replace all the lines etc.

It's a safety thing... you probably wouldn't be interested....

There is a procedure in the FSM for removing the oil pan... most of it is removing the front diff. Beginning of the EM section in my 91 manual. Might help. I have personally done it without removing either the t-bars or cross member.

I think it's in the electrical "EL" section of the FSM. Download link stickied in the garage section.

Might increase engine noise without the insulation?

If the problem is bad enough that you're worried for your safety you should really take it to a mechanic if you can't figure it out.

You can measure how much lift you have in the rear by checking the angle of the stabilizer bar... with no lift the "plane" of the stabilizer bar should be parallel to the ground. With lift the front ends of the bar rise up. So you can measure how much higher the connection to the stabilizer end link is than the bushings on the axle. That is the amount of suspension lift you have. I could have sworn this was in my (91) FSM, but I can't find it in the online 94 version.

Don't grease them before installation or they'll explode.

I have no experience crawling with a manual, but here's how I see it. With a manual there is a minimum speed you need to be going before you stall, even in 1st/4 lo, unless you slip the clutch. But the problem is that at this low speed you won't have much power, since the engine doesn't produce much power/torque at low rpm. So I guess you drive slowly into a rock and then you start to slow down even more because of the resistance of the rock and you hit the gas, but nothing happens because you don't have the power to climb the rock, then you either stall or let off the gas and hit the clutch. With an auto you have a torque converter, so you can slip that as much as you want basically. So you run into the rock, then just keep pushing down the throttle until your engine is spinning fast enough to give you the power to climb up it. I have a manual and like it, and there is more to offroading than the above, but in this scenario an auto seems better.