sewebster

Cool. Sounds like you are good to go then.

Does that mean you have a bad seal on your transmission? How can the fluid get into the bell housing? (I'm not familiar with the auto trans)

Check out EF/FC page 20 in the 95 FSM (download in garage section). It shows you all the different sensors that can influence idle, such as power steering, air conditioning, and battery voltage. This is so that when you aren't moving, the computer will increase air flow to keep idle high enough when those systems are under load. Could be one of those circuits is messed up. Or if the adjust screw is turned all the way closed, the AAC valve might be maxing out and even when fully open you don't have enough air going through.

yup

Yup, they're on there now (poor video on previous page). I had to get longer bolts (M12x1.25x50 mm).

A better way of searching could be to use google and include site:npora.ipbhost.com as one of your search terms. It will restrict results to ones from this site!

I don't see why you need to change either of your differentials. You just need them to be the same. Both auto and manual trucks came with either 4.3 or 4.6 gears, you can't tell by the type of transmission. You can tell by looking at the plate in the engine compartment (HG43 or HG46) but it is irrelevant. Unless you want to change the gear ratio, just change the transmission not the gears.

Ok, I installed my matched pair today: Could be some rubbing on the brush guard. Anyway, I guess I'll leave them like this for now.

For the first time ever I drove my pathfinder to pick up parts to fix my car (gas tank etc.). In the past it has always been the other way around! Maybe I'm making progress. Too bad I was watching the fuel gauge drop as I sat in traffic... don't think the pathy is quite optimal for stop and go driving... Also installed tow hooks, see here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31231&st=0&gopid=595082entry595082

I paid $30 each for 26 spline ones by accident

I guess you are just a better parts finder than the local parts shop! Probably not too surprising... I'm interested in knowing what you think of the ride with them. I have the 5000s in the rear and sometimes I wonder if it's too "stiff" but I bought the truck not long ago and it has lift springs that seem stiff too, so I'm not sure how much difference the shocks make.

Did you need some kind of adapter to use those shocks up front? I thought they didn't have the vertical threaded rod type top attachment...?

Those two little screws are all that hold that thing on? I guess metal and plastic can be strong-ish

I think if you have no lift, the "no tension" position is with the truck on the ground, wheels still on. Getting it off isn't likely going to be the problem... the part that I've found a bit tricky is getting the two bolts lined up between the bar and control arm when reinstalling.

Truck is nice and all, but I'm really coveting the shop Now you just need one of those panhard drop brackets!

Well, my idea was to reinforce the upper attachment to the bumper mount, because I agree that it isn't great. But I guess perhaps the stock bumper mount is weak. At the moment, for me it is not an issue of oem bumper+brush guard vs "real" bumper... it's just whether to keep the brush guard on. I think it looks ok, and I DO drive through brush, so I figured I would leave it on, but I want to avoid causing major damage if I get in some minor incident (more likely with a tree or rock or something than a vehicle accident I figure, but...). Maybe I'll take the bumper off and do some more investigation. I need to replace a rotten bumper end anyway. Of course I don't want to spend too much time because then I might as well make a cheasy bumper. Did anyone end up posting their pattern on here? I've seen a bunch of the bumpers posted and talk of patterns, but...

Yeah, those look not so bad actually. Good job replacing them before bad stuff happened!

Hmm. Don't some people bolt their "good" bumpers to the frame down below as well? It seems to me that the ideal bumper would absorb energy from impacts by crushing, but most "good" bumpers just seem to be designed to be strong. Won't you bend your frame if you hit something with these too?

So, apparently the OEM brush guard is a "damage multiplier" such that when you hit something with it, you end up doing more damage to your truck than you would have if you didn't have it on. Obviously this is not ideal. I'm not entirely sure why this happens, but I think someone posted that the upper mounts aren't very good and it ends up bending over and hitting the grille? Anyway, I am wondering if I can solve this problem by reinforcing the guard, or the mounts. It seems to me that it just mounts into the large hole in the front of the bumper mount. One thing that I could do is weld the plates on to the bumper mount rather than using the clamping type action. Big bolts could be used. Would this work? Is the brush guard itself too weak? Of course perhaps that could be reinforced as well. A "real" bumper would be better, but buying one is $$$ and probably I'm too lazy to do a good job with making my own right now (not to mention that I don't have anywhere to do it, no garage )

I have a set of around 5 from Cleveland Twist Drill that hasn't been terrible. They are the "spiral" type, not the "square" type. Any screw extractor is basically going to be a consumable item though. My set probably cost around $20 or $30? Don't really remember.

Presumably that "dirt" that you can't scrub off is some kind of oxide layer. As long as THAT is "clean" and prepped paint will likely stick. What it looks like doesn't matter before you paint, just that the paint stays on. Might be easier to just paint them and hope for the best... if it doesn't work then deal with it and paint them again... shrug?

You can get injectors cleaned and tested probably for around $20 each. Then you'll know they are good (full flow rate characteristics etc.) Look for a fuel injection place. If its easy on a TBI you could drop a new/rebuilt one in though. Bit of an annoyance on the VG30E so I think testing is worth it for that engine. I did buy a new one for $200 or so from the dealer last year... I was in a rush.

He said the ECU was out of an 89 though...

Probably a phosphoric/sulfuric acid mix will work, but perhaps a little nasty to deal with... likely a good idea to remove the tires first I'm assuming there's a less drastic option.

... and throw a locker in the front diff