sewebster

I think your problem lies in the wiring.... it doesn't matter if the truck seems worse when you think you fixed it... if you are measuring different signals at the MAF and ECU when they should be the same then you need to fix that. Once you've done so you can figure out why your truck idles too high with it fixed or whatever. I don't know if that's actually what's causing your problem, but it's really hard to diagnose stuff like this (especially over the internet) without being methodical about it...

It is possible to reassemble the crankshaft pulley such that the timing marks are in the wrong place unfortunately. It sounds like you have this problem. Of course this only makes it more hard to time your vehicle etc. The good thing is your truck started again after it died. This means your timing belt didn't just snap... but you should really replace it if you don't know if it's ever been done and you have 186k miles! The change interval is 60k miles. It's only 100k miles if you have the rounded tooth crank and cam sprockets that came with the VG33. When you change the belt you can fix the crank pulley to make timing it with a light easy. Alternatively you can find TDC another way and make new marks on your pulley...

Didn't you already determine that your MAF wiring was busted?

either a wiring problem before the ignition coil or a power transistor problem. Unless you also have a crank angle sensor code (11) in which case it could be caused by that. EF+EC page 42 in the 91 FSM.

If your engine computer thinks your engine is knocking because of the knock sensor, then yes, the engine will perform poorly. The knock sensor is held on by a single bolt, and has a single electrical connector, BUT it is under the lower intake manifold, so either you have to do a lot of disassembly to get to it, do a lot of wiggling from the rear, or bypass/relocate it by disconnecting upstream. I suppose it's also possible that the sensor is working properly and is retarding engine performance to prevent knock... but probably you just have a bad sensor.

Trouble codes?

Cool. Sounds like you are good to go then.

Does that mean you have a bad seal on your transmission? How can the fluid get into the bell housing? (I'm not familiar with the auto trans)

Check out EF/FC page 20 in the 95 FSM (download in garage section). It shows you all the different sensors that can influence idle, such as power steering, air conditioning, and battery voltage. This is so that when you aren't moving, the computer will increase air flow to keep idle high enough when those systems are under load. Could be one of those circuits is messed up. Or if the adjust screw is turned all the way closed, the AAC valve might be maxing out and even when fully open you don't have enough air going through.

yup

Yup, they're on there now (poor video on previous page). I had to get longer bolts (M12x1.25x50 mm).

A better way of searching could be to use google and include site:npora.ipbhost.com as one of your search terms. It will restrict results to ones from this site!

I don't see why you need to change either of your differentials. You just need them to be the same. Both auto and manual trucks came with either 4.3 or 4.6 gears, you can't tell by the type of transmission. You can tell by looking at the plate in the engine compartment (HG43 or HG46) but it is irrelevant. Unless you want to change the gear ratio, just change the transmission not the gears.

Ok, I installed my matched pair today: Could be some rubbing on the brush guard. Anyway, I guess I'll leave them like this for now.

For the first time ever I drove my pathfinder to pick up parts to fix my car (gas tank etc.). In the past it has always been the other way around! Maybe I'm making progress. Too bad I was watching the fuel gauge drop as I sat in traffic... don't think the pathy is quite optimal for stop and go driving... Also installed tow hooks, see here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31231&st=0&gopid=595082entry595082

I paid $30 each for 26 spline ones by accident

I guess you are just a better parts finder than the local parts shop! Probably not too surprising... I'm interested in knowing what you think of the ride with them. I have the 5000s in the rear and sometimes I wonder if it's too "stiff" but I bought the truck not long ago and it has lift springs that seem stiff too, so I'm not sure how much difference the shocks make.

Did you need some kind of adapter to use those shocks up front? I thought they didn't have the vertical threaded rod type top attachment...?

Those two little screws are all that hold that thing on? I guess metal and plastic can be strong-ish

I think if you have no lift, the "no tension" position is with the truck on the ground, wheels still on. Getting it off isn't likely going to be the problem... the part that I've found a bit tricky is getting the two bolts lined up between the bar and control arm when reinstalling.

Truck is nice and all, but I'm really coveting the shop Now you just need one of those panhard drop brackets!

Well, my idea was to reinforce the upper attachment to the bumper mount, because I agree that it isn't great. But I guess perhaps the stock bumper mount is weak. At the moment, for me it is not an issue of oem bumper+brush guard vs "real" bumper... it's just whether to keep the brush guard on. I think it looks ok, and I DO drive through brush, so I figured I would leave it on, but I want to avoid causing major damage if I get in some minor incident (more likely with a tree or rock or something than a vehicle accident I figure, but...). Maybe I'll take the bumper off and do some more investigation. I need to replace a rotten bumper end anyway. Of course I don't want to spend too much time because then I might as well make a cheasy bumper. Did anyone end up posting their pattern on here? I've seen a bunch of the bumpers posted and talk of patterns, but...

Yeah, those look not so bad actually. Good job replacing them before bad stuff happened!

Hmm. Don't some people bolt their "good" bumpers to the frame down below as well? It seems to me that the ideal bumper would absorb energy from impacts by crushing, but most "good" bumpers just seem to be designed to be strong. Won't you bend your frame if you hit something with these too?

So, apparently the OEM brush guard is a "damage multiplier" such that when you hit something with it, you end up doing more damage to your truck than you would have if you didn't have it on. Obviously this is not ideal. I'm not entirely sure why this happens, but I think someone posted that the upper mounts aren't very good and it ends up bending over and hitting the grille? Anyway, I am wondering if I can solve this problem by reinforcing the guard, or the mounts. It seems to me that it just mounts into the large hole in the front of the bumper mount. One thing that I could do is weld the plates on to the bumper mount rather than using the clamping type action. Big bolts could be used. Would this work? Is the brush guard itself too weak? Of course perhaps that could be reinforced as well. A "real" bumper would be better, but buying one is $$$ and probably I'm too lazy to do a good job with making my own right now (not to mention that I don't have anywhere to do it, no garage )