sewebster

I guess it's kinda good you didn't do it yourself...

Yeah. I mean, you could buy some redi rod and cut them yourself, or get some fastener place to make them up. If it were me I would upgrade to the Z studs, or use a very good grade of redi rod, or upgrade to M10 and use either the VG33 studs or make your own. Anyway, M10 options require drilling and tapping obviously... Or you could just get some bolts, but, caveat emptor...

Well, the dealer will have the stock studs (or can get them)...

I believe in automatic transmissions there is "slippage" or relative motion between things in any gear but "drive." So long term operation in other gears should be avoided. But this isn't any different than driving your truck around slowly in the lower gears, so it's no worse than that. My parent's 4runner manual tells them not to tow/uphill for long stretches in the lower gear options for this reason. I'm just pointing this out for informational purposes

Saw a truck driving around today with no front fenders at all

Could need to do the solenoid relay mod if it is your wiring that is the problem.

On our type of trucks the release bearing is only fully loaded when the clutch pedal is depressed. I guess I am unsure of whether or not it has any preload... if so, it would spin all the time, you are right... FSM doesn't say that I can tell.

I was under the impression that the throwout bearing could not make any noise except when you have the clutch pedal depressed. The throwout bearing allows you to apply pressure to the spinning clutch plate mechanism with the fixed clutch fork. The bearing makes it so that the fork doesn't get torn off. Perhaps counterintuitively the clutch is fully engaged when there is no pressure applied to it. It uses springs and some weird mechanism to disengage when you push on it.

confusing, but I think the last part means any van/wagon (wd21) with the V6 has the big tank (in 1988)

What's footnote 5 that applies to the second fuel capacity?

There also could be a difference between the volume of the entire gas tank, and the maximum volume you can put it based on the fill tube location or something... not sure, perhaps there is supposed to be air space at the top of the tank.

I think all they mean is that you should not shift the t-case into 4wd mode without locking the hubs. You could see people doing this (shifting to 4-lo) to essentially get a 2-lo option where they get low range gearing but don't bother to lock their hubs, which is apparently bad.

Have you thought of measuring the breakaway torque, as some sort of quantitative parameter? I guess it would be easier with the carrier out though

Heh, copyright in the US is something ludicrous like 100 years after the death of the author, and they keep extending it, so it's basically forever. It's really quite dumb.

Admittedly I did not notice the words "check ground circuit" before, heh. It still seems to me that if you measure voltage between pin 17 on the ecu and ground with the ignition on that you should get 0V or very close to it. The fact that he is reading a voltage there which is significantly above (or below) zero seems to be bad to me. Unless the FSM has referenced their ground to -12V or whatever, which would be confusing. Anyway, as we have both mentioned, he is clearly not getting the correct signal at terminal 16 on the ecu, so that needs to be fixed.

Nice bolt.

Yeah, makes some sense. On my other car I had some weird temperature fluctuations, but I didn't know what the problem was. Eventually the car would occasionally overheat in traffic. Finally at some point the radiator sprung a leak and I replaced it. Then all my weird temperature stuff went away.

I think that you could make the quest engine work, but you need need to switch components over from your pathfinder vg30e to the quest vg30e in the process. Makes it less of a drop in operation. I am not sure about this.

Maybe you need a new radiator?

The stock studs are M8.

My gauge doesn't go to full either. Probably a common problem. If I ever have to pull the fuel pump I guess I'll mess around with the gauge parts...

It's definitely worth having a paper copy of the FSM. I paid a lot... at least $75 and I don't regret buying it at all.

I believe the HS means harness side. I think there is something at the very start of the FSM to explain the symbols.

Ok, so here's the thing where you lose me. If pin B is grounded, shouldn't pin 17 on the ECU also be at ground?

See, now you're changing your tune... before you said "reference ground" now it's a reference voltage... sounds better... but isn't that basically exactly what I said before? Are you saying to ground pin B or not?