sewebster

Same fluid as in your transmission.

I believe the front of the truck is supposed to be lower than the back by the way. Not sure by how much. Looks ready for action!

Looks nice. I need to do something like this. Did those barrel connectors come with the terminal clamp?

Or torch if you want to get it even hotter.

Lame. You could get another one and use your old one as your own parts truck

Yesterday, painted two JY tow hooks. Painted some stainless mesh to go underneath the hood cowl covers... unfortunately it started to rain mid-painting!

Probably easier if you take the body off...

I actually don't have one. But apparently they are much better. I guess the picture doesn't show it very well, but the ball joints are replaced with spherical bearings. You do have to drill out your pitman and idler arms though, which is better done off the truck. Removing the pitman arm can be a bit of a pain. Anyway, just pointing out that possibility, because the cost might not be as big a factor if you were going to spend big bucks on a plain old centrelink.

The taper in the holes for the tie rod ends are different. Possibly the taper of the ball joints for the idler/pitman are different too. I would assume they are, or else you would just be able to switch TREs... You should get this anyway: http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

I think we need a re-cap here. What is the truck you are trying to put the engine into? The 91 in your profile?

Probably you'll take it to the shop and they'll just tell you to get a new exhaust!

The "choke" is the air regulator. It's the tower-like thing on the rear-drivers side of the upper plenum. It is supposed to increase air flow and therefore idle speed when the engine is cold. I'm not sure this sounds like your problem though, because it should still likely run, just at the normal idle speed... Some pressure in the fuel tank is acceptable... there is a valve that opens at a certain pressure that directs vapour to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment. The less fuel in the tank, the more air space for this pressure to build up. If the valve is damaged or the line to the canister/canister itself clogged then excessive pressure could develop. But if anything I'd think that would increase fuel flow, not restrict it

Do you have the pipe section out of the truck? If not you can remove it, cut the wires off and put a socket on...

In my head I was thinking fuel problem. Maybe try changing your fuel filter, and if you have a gauge, check the fuel pressure...

I need a new gas tank. Actually, this is for my other car, not my pathfinder, but same thing really. Do I need to paint it when I get it? None of them seem to be painted... but they claim to be corrosion resistant etc., so perhaps they seem to be saying that you don't need to. I'm inclined to put some undercoating on... unless I'm missing something and there's really no need... Any good/bad experiences with not painting aftermarket tanks?

I think this is everything you've dreamed of: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31058

That's essentially what I did (full rebuild, cylinders bored etc.). OP is also replacing his engine

Nylon sounds pretty ghetto.

Jack up the lower control arm? I have never taken off the lower ball joint, but after removing the upper to replace a CV, I think I just jacked up the bottom and put it back together. It was a bit of a struggle, but mostly because I was alone trying to work the fasteners and pry-bar at the same time. Unfortunately you can only jack so much before you start to lift the whole truck. Don't drop it on yourself. I think perhaps I am saying to put the lower on first. Sorry if I'm confused or misunderstanding the situation.

Leaking air between the cover plate and body. At low RPM it just sucked air and oil pressure dropped to zero. Above about 1000 rpm the gear would be spinning fast enough that it pulled oil through and the pressure was almost normal. I even opened the pump up when I was rebuilding the engine and measured all the clearances in the FSM between the various parts of the gear and body, but that didn't find this problem. If I take my old pump and blow into the intake you can hear all the air leaking out like crazy. New pump still leaks a bit (there is no real seal between the two parts) but not like my old one. Presumably the previous owner didn't change their oil enough or something and it got worn down. Could be uncommon, I have no idea.

My positive terminal is cracked, but I haven't replaced it yet because I'm not sure how to best attach all that stuff either.

You might consider replacing the oil pump and water pump as preventative maintenance. I didn't replace my oil pump when i had my engine out for a rebuild end ended up replacing it (major pain) a couple months later.

Presumably the amount that it is an issue is proportional to the amount of oil it burns, but all engines burn oil, it's just a matter of how much. I do wonder if the policy is to account for the average car owner who never changes their oil.

Sounds better than my truck There isn't much way you can get the "wrong" rpm with a manual transmission, unless someone changed the gears or something. I think it's just to try to keep the revs high for power.

Well, it will keep the plenum cooler, which will keep the intake air cooler, which means the air should be more dense, so you get more oxygen to burn the fuel. It will also change the air flow characteristics in the plenum, essentially making it bigger. Probably this could be good or bad, depending on the design, but since people seem to talk more about hollowing their intakes than filling them in, I'm guessing good...