sewebster

That sucks. When I had mine done I got a printout with all kinds of data about each injector and how it performed. I chose to replace one as a result.

The LSD oil sticker is the most durable part on the truck! Probably the best way to find one...

You can tap into the wires at the MAF or at the ECU with a multimeter. The correct voltages are in the EF/EC section of the FSM.

Did they not flow test them etc to see if they work properly?

Maybe you can buy another R50 that needs to go in for the recall for $2000 and get another $4200 for it? If you do this for all 195000 pathfinders being recalled, you could earn over $200 million.

Could just be your fuel pressure regulator is busted... it's only like a $50 part, so I would test the pressure with a gauge (procedure in the FSM for the specs with the regulator vacuum plugged in and not) and replace it if it's broken.

Ahh. Can't you just swap out the clutch packs then? Maybe too annoying.

Presumably there's some trade off, slipping clutches/bands presumably reduces shock loading somewhere else? But maybe not too much since you've got the "give" in the torque converter too. How many autos actually end up dead because the clutches are worn out though? Seems to me they always die in some more heinous way.

Your diff is soooooo shiny!

Lots of things are easy in theory and occasionally more complicated in reality On another car I once thought I was going to need to use a winch to remove the spark plug wires. On this truck it's the #6 plug that is a bit of a pain, but once you've figured out "the system" it goes a heck of a lot easier. Good job getting the plugs changed yourself!

Lots of people here recommend the regular plugs too... shrug

Hmm. Interesting that you have no code but it seems to be in failsafe mode. I would try wiggling/adjusting the MAF wiring to see if that does anything I guess. Maybe something happened when you cleaned it somehow...

The engine runs better with the fuel pump unplugged? Presumably until it runs out of gas... maybe your fuel pressure regulator is broken... could try checking the fuel pressure with a gauge.

so you still can't go past 3k rpm?

If it's knocking then using higher octane gas might actually help.

Try to feel behind the engine. The knock sensor wire is the only thing that is coming out from below the lower intake, in the valley between the two cylinder heads.

Hard to say... I get lots of BETTER parts online for cheaper than an inferior part at a local shop... depends on the situation. Some parts vary more in terms of quality than others too... no real personal experience with wires. The ones I got from rock auto were about $30 I think? They have a wide variety from $17 to $70. I probably wouldn't get the $17 though, who knows...

Always good to get it solved!

The voltage at pin 18 of the ECM should be between 1 and 3 volts with the engine running (depends on temp). Page EF&EC-129 of the 94 FSM. This is with it connected and a small probe wire carefully inserted.

Those shims are the "normal" ones... geometrically it is possible for them to fall out. If you install them properly and don't off-road much they probably won't fall out... but obviously some people have had problems. So using washers is "better" just less convenient. Mcmaster-carr doesn't have M14x1.5 10.9 so I don't have any ideas there...

Thoughts: make sure you are messing with the right temp sensor, not the one for the dashboard gauge. If the ECU throws the code then either there is a problem with the sensor, with the wiring or the ECU. You can test the sensor and the wiring... if those check out then you have to try a known good ecu unfortunately...

It sounds to me like you have more than one problem... I would be curious if you still get the MAF code when you have the wiring straight to the ECU (after resetting codes). But maybe it doesn't even run well enough for you to check? If it's just idling at 2000 rpm that is probably ok... If fixing the wiring DOES get rid of the MAF code then I'd move on to solving the next one. If you don't want the ecu to be able to increase the idle speed unplug the AAC connector. Then your idle will just be based on the mechanical stuff... idle adjust screw, vacuum leaks etc....

This should be a how to or sticky or something...

Some shops use impact wrenches irresponsibly. Got my tires mounted at a fountain tire and I had to get my impact out just to take the wheels off. Thank goodness I didn't notice in the middle of nowhere with a flat I couldn't change...

So 94+ came with rounded tooth sprockets?