sewebster

convenient!

Apparently lower is waaaay more annoying. I think to do the uppers you just disconnect the upper ball joint and pop it off. No messing with the t-bars etc. Might as well do your CV while you're at it, just need to take the shock off as well.

Cool. Was it sticking out then?

I like how the extractor is taped up. Someone probably bought it, extracted their screw, and returned it.

I'm not sure about the VG30I but the VG30E has a failsafe mode that prevents revving past 3000 rpm. The ECU goes into this mode when it gets bad sensor readings. You can read the engine trouble codes to find out the problem.

VR38DETT swap

You can probably just get a new third member. Probably they are asking whether you have an open diff (open) or LSD ("locking") because those were the only two options and their website is dumb. I guess you might also need side gears. I would likely replace the wheel bearings separately, but maybe it is just easier to pull the whole darn axle out and swap in a new one... dunno. You might find it easier to just call around to junk yards?

Ok, so it runs worse, but what are the voltages? Try to give it gas to get it up to 2000 rpm or something, measure terminal C at the MAF, check to make sure the voltage is good, measure pin 16 at ECU, check to make sure voltage is good etc.

It might help to have the voltages at the MAF harness and ECU side in the different configurations, but it sounds a little weird. Basically by fixing your wiring your problem gets worse, not better. Not sure what to suggest. You need to thoroughly determine that your MAF is wired properly, with the auxilliary ground, with shielded wiring etc, and that the proper signal is getting to the ECU. Then you can try comparing all the readings etc. between your different wiring setups to try to see what is going on I guess.

Those wires are supposed to be encased in a grounded metal shielding I believe, that is what Kingman is talking about. Are you getting the proper voltage at pin 16 with your new wiring? Sounds like you aren't, so something is still wrong...

I've never actually used that style... how do you find them better? Anything in particular?

That is a problem. The FSM gives the range of acceptable voltages at pin 16 and 0.59V is not in it. Sounds like you have a wiring problem between your MAF and ECU to me... Unless there is a typo in the FSM or something. I guess Adamzan can double check for you.

It is probably in EL, the electrical section, but I forget. I looked up the wire colours at one point. You also need to figure out what the letter codes for the colours mean. If it's not in the start of the EL section, it might be in the intro to the whole book, not sure what PDF that is (I have a paper copy of the book).

Wiring diagram is in the fsm... http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/

Read these PDFs: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ Each one is a different chapter of the FSM about a different system of the truck.

Are you getting the correct voltage at pin 16 on the ECU now?

260-289 ft-lb in the 91 FSM.

Should say on your screw extractor?

Nice.

Unfortunately I am not sure. You might try searching around on the board to see if you can find that info, or perhaps someone else will post here. Not the new 350/370Z, presumably an older one with a VG engine.

Nissan's solution to the problem was the M10x1.25 VG33 studs... presumably for a reason.

Not too surprising that a busted transmission is not fixed by starting to use the proper fluid/level. I have similar issues from previous owners...

So, you mean that you reinstalled the t-bar, then tightened up the anchor bolt to ride height before you installed the snap ring? Oops. I guess you could try hammering it forward, but it would be better to do unloaded. Jacking will remove some of the load, but not all. If you use an impact gun it does not take too long to turn the anchor bolt.

The Z studs are 8 mm and just thread right in, no ability required.

Well, it could matter... if these are M8 studs, then IF THE HEAD WERE STEEL, you could probably get away with about 1 cm of engagement. But since it is not, you need to multiply by the ratio of material strengths. I really don't know what type of aluminum the head is made out of, or what kind of steel the studs are made of, but it could easily be a factor of 3. Now, I don't think the holes are even 3 cm deep, but this means I'd worry about using something with less thread engagement in the head than stock. And I've torn the threads out of a head with a stock stud On the other end, where you put on the nut, all that matters is: no part of the unthreaded region sticks past the washer, and at least some part of the stud sticks past the end of the nut when you start tightening.