sewebster

Apparently, at least for wd21s, the arb locker is incompatible with an oem LSD diff. Why is that? Different attachment mechanism of the carrier to the ring gear?

"I don't wanna see this all over the internet... all your buddies doin it at home now..."

You should ensure that you get the same gearing as you already have... on WD21s it says in the engine compartment, I assume it's the same for R50s. Ours says something like HG43 (which means 4.3) on the plate on the passenger side rear of the engine compartment.

I still have both grounds, so I can take some pics sometime, maybe later tonight, not sure. Kinda hectic... probably partially because I spend too much time posting on the internet.

Just an FYI, replacing your knock sensor will NOT stop engine knock. The sensor just detects it... and when it does it adjusts the ignition timing to prevent it. The only reason to replace your knock sensor is if it is defective...

The knock sensor is under the intake, yes. Right on the top of the engine block. You can probably feel it if you wiggle your hand in there from the back now (follow the wire...).

The thing is that there is a non-zero distance between all the ground points, as mentioned by westslope above. Presumably by saving your exhaust studs you roast the rest of your engine compartment faster thought without the shields. Not that it necessarily makes a huge difference either way...

There is one of those ground straps on each side. They go from the chassis to each exhaust manifold. The connector plugs into something on the chassis. Neither is critical really, but remove enough grounds and you'll have problems.

Ok, it sounds like maybe you have a couple different issues and that the oil leak is a separate problem. Presumably you O2 sensor code is a problem with your O2 sensor. I would replace it. What I was trying to say about the knock sensor code, was that, if you get engine knock for some reason, you might trigger the knock sensor code? I'm not sure exactly how that code works. Especially since you are talking about a knocking sound.... you might want to think about it or something before replacing the sensor.... Especially since it is a pain. I would remove the upper plenum to do it, yes. If you then remove the lower intake you will be able to see the sensor right there, but removing the intake is annoying. Some people successfully reach underneath and do it by feel. Perhaps it is even possible to do with the upper plenum still on...

The thing is, you said you heard a ticking sound when you first had the problem... this wouldn't happen to the lifters unless there was a lack of oil pressure. Which would only happen due to a leak if you lost almost all your oil. But if you checked your oil and you didn't lose much... well, then it is confusing. The knock sensor is underneath the lower intake manifold. It might not actually be defective... other problems can sometimes trigger it...

Sound like your thermostat is toast... could have failed prematurely... Unlikely to cause detonation though.

The tapping is probably the valve lifters. They can tap at startup (quite loud sometimes) until oil gets into them. It is possible that they sustained some damage due to lack of oil and are therefore now louder...

Wouldn't you expect to get better mileage with larger tires? If you drive the same speed as before (REAL speed, not what it says on the speedo) then your engine will be turning slightly slower. This will reduce your power, but quite possibly slightly increase your mileage. If you go too far then your engine will be lugging and your mileage will decrease again. Anyway, I don't know what really happens, but it doesn't seem so ludicrous to me. The jeep chart that someone posted above says the same thing actually.

Oops, keep forgetting not everyone has a wd21, my bad.

Might want to put a tinfoil hat on your ECU, just to be safe.

I don't really disagree, but it depends on the truck's gearing too. In some theoretical case where with small tires your truck is running at super high RPMs, potentially the fuel economy could be improved by moving to a larger tire and dropping the engine speed to reasonable levels. Not that this is happening here really... presumably the stock gearing is optimized for the stock tire size in most ways. Yup, but if the stock wheel bearings are overbuilt by a ton, then it may be possible to push the wheels out some while maintaining a livable bearing lifetime. Again, not disagreeing with you really...

Check the compression rod bushings too?

Nice job! Just watch out someone doesn't get you in trouble for using bolts!

Well, code 21 is "ignition signal" so that sounds like it could be an issue. I'm wondering if this is a distributor problem of some sort. If you are getting spark, but at the wrong time, it could cause your symptoms. This would be a "timing problem" (ignition timing) that would not cause significant damage. You haven't removed your distributor have you? Maybe it just rotated? But usually that wouldn't change things enough to stop it from starting... maybe though I guess.

You need to update your sig

Holy crap, you need to remove stuff to change the pcv valve? Crazy. Anyway, I really don't see how running this different oil is going to stop your RMS leak unfortunately...

If you are just removing the standard 8 mm studs, then there is still a bunch of room left. You can drill and tap for 10 mm for instance. Helicoil would also work presumably. If you can drill a small hole down the centre of the bolt and then slowly increase the size of drill bit, eventually there won't be any stud left. Then you can drill and tap for helicoil or larger size. But this requires you to be able to drill the stud straight.

I'm just guessing based on your description. I guess there could be some electrical problem to the injectors, like if the ECU died, that could cause this too, but that's pretty low down on the likelihood list. You need 3 things, gas, air, spark. I guess you could try opening the throttle a bit when starting (push gas pedal down a bit) but that also is not likely the problem.

Oops! At least it isn't so bad. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a tougher bumper!