sewebster

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

Will the dealer actually give you a pre-bent section of brake line?

Yeah, Alkorahil is right, if you have a load sensing proportioning valve you probably need to get one from the dealer! But from your description I'm not sure if this is what you are talking about.

I don't recall having any trouble hooking up my knock sensor... I think I just connected it before installing the lower intake manifold. Which harness does it connect to anyway? Or maybe I just plugged it in from the back once I had the injector harness on there if that's where it goes... Unless I forgot to connect it But in that case I'd expect an ecu error code.

Brakes are pretty simple and standardized, so you shouldn't have any problems using aftermarket parts. You could of course do it yourself with oem parts you got from the dealer if you wanted...

pin out in fsm

Possibly you could machine off the front of the bell housing such that adding the adapter keeps the overall length the same. Makes it a more significant job though.

Maybe take off the headers and replace the gaskets... or check them for scorch marks where there is a leak?

The Moogs are progressive springs, which should make for a better ride.

Put all that stuff on the engine and just drop it in. I think all you need to worry about is getting the oil pan past the cross member and not smashing your rad if that is still in.

I'm not sure what "flaky" means... you need to do what Precise said and hit it and see if it's just some flakes on the surface, or whether the whole frame has corroded. Anyway, the price isn't out of this world high or anything. It all depends on the condition. It sounds not too bad, but once you own the truck it would be pretty easy to drop a bunch more cash into it doing "minor" things like suspension bushings etc etc. I guess maybe what I'm saying is that if $2k is at the very top of your budget, I might be worried about needing to do some work once you got it. If you can afford it though, and you can determine that the frame and floor etc. are in good shape then probably you can make it into a good truck!

Maybe it's different with the Thorleys but with the stock manifolds you can do them all with a combination of a regular socket, deep socket, short extension and ratchet too.

You can basically still do that with manual hubs, just lock them for the winter. This cuts down on CV wear by half (unlocked half the year).

Squirter pump seems to be the most likely culprit... If it was totally dry it could take a while to prime and come out, but I'm assuming you held it down for a while... See if you can tell if it is running and wiggle the connector...

You can probably find the part number on nissan4u.com. Best if you go and enter your vehicle specifics, but here is one from an 89, part number 28 in this diagram, real PN listed below: http://nissan4u.com/parts/pathfinder/us_wd21/1989_7/type_6/exhaust_and_cooling/water_pump_cooling_fan_thermostat_water_hose_and_piping/

Ah, I see, yeah, makes sense. On mine, when I pushed the timing sprocket all the way on by hand it started rubbing on the washer behind it, so I pulled it back out and used the balancer tightening to push it into what I figured would be the right position. I used an impact wrench, and I'm confident the bolt is quite tight. It doesn't rub now that I can hear, so I guess the tightening squashed the washer into the right shape or something. I suppose another possibility is that I'm missing some sort of spacer... I guess I'll make sure to check the next time I have that opened up.

Check the short hoses between the two injector rails (front and back).

For some reason I believe those crossmember bolts are supposed to be "backwards." At least according to the FSM. You need to remove the t-bars to get to them.

My floor was rusted through and I have no pre-cat.

Why would a loose crank bolt cause the sprocket to spin? Isn't the sprocket always free to move forward and backward somewhat (except for the fact that it is a tight fit)? Maybe I'm missing something on mine, but if I were to push mine back too far then it would rub on the oil pump (there is actually a washer type thing in between).

Wiring diagram would be nice to check against. Did you get the relays at the junkyard? I guess the colours are standard on all Nissans?

I would guess that if you want on-road performance then an AT tire is not the way to go. But they are fine on the road (I have the Duratracs that Adamzan mentioned), and clearly better off road, which is why I own the truck in the first place.

What is wrong with them?

My timing sprocket key slot was damaged when I rebuilt my engine too. I didn't do anything about it because I didn't properly understand the ramifications of failure the. It looked like someone had gone at it with a dremel for some reason. Anyway the key still went in tight so hopefully it is fine! There shouldn't be TOO much force on the sprocket anyway, right?

Why would a larger diameter cat cause more emissions? Or is the same amount of catalyst, but less restriction so more flow = less catalyzing effect.