sewebster

But what does it sound like?

Tightened my exhaust manifold bolts. Except for one that I can't manage to get a socket or anything onto because there is no clearance since I upgraded to 10 mm. Need to grind the manifold a bit at some point. It's pretty tight already so whatever. I even tried a crow's foot, but no dice.

Replaced a compression rod that was half worn through and welded one of the bushing cups back on for it.

So they both broke at the same time? Congratulations!

I have a 91 pathfinder. I'm pretty sure my MC has no bleeder screws, which means to bleed it, you've got to take the lines off and make a mess... I have never bled mine. I do not have a load sensing valve. Rather than just looking around randomly for one though, I would try to follow the hydraulic lines. If you go from the MC to the brakes and there is no load sensing valve in the line, then you don't have one I have rear disc.

Nice one!

Very sexy.

Once you have the distributor installed and everything then you start the truck and use a timing light to rotate the distributor while the engine is running to get to 15 degrees... look up how to use a timing light if you aren't familiar. Then you tighten the bolt and you're done. If you have the distributor installed on the wrong tooth then either it won't run at all or you won't be able to get to 15 degrees BTDC.

DUDES you forgot to put the abs manifold thingy into your bleed order

You have your crank set at 0deg BTDC in the pics, so that is right. You do need to make sure that the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke... Next you line up the marks on the distributor and put it in. The question is how do you orient it when you insert it? Follow My1paths instructions. You want to have the rotor basically pointing towards the #1 point (check the cap to see where this is, might not line up with where the wire comes out the top). The rotor will turn as you put the distributor in since the gears need to mesh, so you may have a try a few times to get it to line up after installation... Good luck...

Can you put the hoist on a sheet of plywood or something?

Broken power brakes started working?

Well, I basically can't see anything in the pics, certainly wouldn't notice if I didn't know about your issue, so I think that means you did a good job.

What do they put in high mileage oil anyway? I run 20w-50 in my car (not my pathy) because otherwise it burns oil like crazy. I figure I'm just stopping the burning and sacrificing the engine, but I don't think I'm going to reinsure it when it expires this month so...

Cool. Did you clear the codes in the ECU? I forget if you even need to do that. I would look into the oil light issue... could be an unrelated problem. Probably it is just the sensor or the wire, but better to find out for sure.

Kid is having a sleepy afternoon so I got outside... the manifolds were somewhat loose! Tightened it up and the noise seems to be gone. Yeehaw! I guess part of the problem is me guessing at the torque, since I upgraded to M10. I have it at 20 ft-lbs, which isn't much for 10mm, but the spec for the 8mm studs is also pretty low and I just did some conversion to try to get about the same bolt tension. I guess I need to look up an FSM from an engine with the 10mm, like the VG33. Edit: '96 FSM says manifold nuts are 21-25 ft-lbs, so maybe I can even go a bit tighter. Didn't put the covers back on yet anyway.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll report back when I have a chance to check it out. Shouldn't take long, except I've got a 3 month old, so, sometimes things end up on the back burner! Slick: I counted the timing belt teeth several times, so it should be all timed correctly.

Terminals look pretty corroded? Maybe not making contact?

Well pulling the shields and looking around and re-torqueing is pretty easy so I guess I'll do that. Sorry about the wind noise, heh, didn't realize when I was filming. Another reason for an e-fan I guess It's not just the injectors. I can hear those too, but this is something else. It sounds like valve noise to me, but I just can't find anything. I guess if it's not the manifolds and it IS valve noise then it isn't SUCH a bad thing. I guess I'm just worried about a bottom end problem, but hopefully I have no reason to...

Ok, so I've got this tick from my engine... engine is newly rebuilt, so I'd like to think it's not something major Tried finding the source of the tick by listening through a pry bar touching all over the place but no dice. Definitely seems to be coming from the driver's side. Unplugging each spark plug one at a time didn't silence it, idle changed each time too. I had the plenum off and wiggled around all the rockers/lifters and everything was tight. I had the oil pan off recently too and nothing was wiggling down there either. Compression test is good. Injectors were just cleaned, new ignition stuff etc etc. I'm hoping it's my manifolds, but dunno if this is the "infamous" tick or not. I know none of the studs are broken because I tapped them to M10 when I did the rebuilt. Manifolds were slightly warped, but I used a feeler (with no gasket) and when the bolts were tightened there were no significant gaps. Maybe it's time for the Thorley's... Anyway, happy for any thoughts, but maybe it's hard through video. Thanks guys. Edit: I should also mention that I replaced all the lifters at the rebuild, followed the correct run in procedure, none of them were soft etc. etc. Doesn't mean one hasn't seized up I guess, but...

Exhaust temps can be over 700 C, that's 1300 F...

I guess since the head is cooled it likely doesn't get up to 250C anyway so the high temp loctite should last.

Ah yes, good point. Sorry! Don't listen to me!

There are two temperature sensors right next to each other on the upper rad hose. One has a "real" plastic connector. That is for the ECU. The other just has a metal spade, that is for the gauge on the dash.

Sounds like you should replace your thermostat and see what happens next