sewebster

So if you pull a plug and hold it near ground it sparks? because if so that basically means your distributor (and the crank angle sensor inside) and ignition coil are working right? Kinda sounds like a timing problem to me from your description. You're sure you didn't lose some teeth off the belt like someone else posted a picture of recently?

Hehe, my $60 was a bit of an rough number... but, happy to help!

My dealer (Vancouver BC) had them in stock for $60.

Heh, I call my truck "The Black Beast."

Check the codes?

Nice

It doesn't even have a redline!

Would the people who are spinning tires benefit from using 4wd here or is the added drivetrain drag too much? Some sports cars are 4wd/awd... gt-r for instance.

Jack the truck up entirely and start turning some wheels, shifting etc?

The ball joint bolts aren't super huge if I recall correctly, so don't go too crazy on them. The proper torque should be in the FSM, which is available for download...

Leaking injector dripping into a cylinder?

60 mph is about 97 kph by the way. 100 kph = 62 mph

Slashjt's test demonstrates that he has an LSD, at the expense of some grass But you are right, it doesn't really show how useful it is. If you want to test if your LSD is up to spec, the FSM tells you the breakaway torque. You could probably measure this without taking apart your diff by jacking one side and seeing how much torque it takes you to rotate the jacked wheel (in neutral). Not sure how to best measure that. But again, this would just be a number and not really be as nice to see as that hill climb video

The goo in the bottom of the overflow bottle is not so uncommon. I wouldn't worry about that too much (but you should change your coolant more often). Engine running too hot seems like almost certainly a cooling system problem to me. Other than the thermostat or clogged lines/rad, it could be a fan clutch issue too I guess. If you put new coolant in and it also gets fouled then I guess you could have a head gasket leak... you should check the condition of your oil and you could also do a compression (and/or leakdown) test...

Looks like it will work. Unless you have an LSD, in which case you might need an additive. If R50s even came with LSDs...

It's kinda funny to me that we're here posting acceleration videos of heavy trucks, V8 or not. You guys should add the VTEC noise to your videos

Yeah, my engine varies a little bit in how fast it starts. If it starts in less than, say, 3 seconds, I think it's fine.

Head to a local cam shop? They probably have a bunch on the shelf. I bought some from RockAuto, but I wasn't very satisfied with them...

Is the problem the starter or the ignition?

I'm not really familiar with the R50, so I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at in the pic, but if you are replacing everything, you don't necessarily need to get the nuts loose? Just cut out some of them... but if they are going into a part you are keeping then yeah, you have to get them out. Heat might work, but I don't recall if I've ever used heat on a brake system before... not sure what would happen with the brake fluid... Maybe try to cut the piece you are working on out and attack it on the workbench, could be easier, but you might have to replace more lines...

I'd probably post this in the R50 section... It probably isn't like that from the factory...

You aren't required to use a sealer. Probably wouldn't hurt too much if you did, but I never had. I have no idea what the oem spec bolts are, but I've just been using a bag of M10x1.5 for my exhaust work and it seems fine.

I don't understand why anyone would ever buy a new car in one of these strange non-rust states! It seems like it's the only thing that ever kills cars up here...

Wow, impressive. I will definitely consider that when the time comes.

Taking off the t-bars shouldn't really be that big of a deal... Isn't it just a locknut, adjuster nut and c-clip?