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JohnMasters

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About JohnMasters

  • Birthday 09/07/1971

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1992 - Just bought as an impulse buy for $1000. Very well taken care of mechanically but it has the dreaded rotten rear frame.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1992

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

JohnMasters's Achievements

NPORA Regular

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  1. NICE!! I have been on the lookout for another truck for a while and purchased another very clean 92 SE model last year for $1000. It would have been a great deal if the owner had revealed that it was using(not burning) a quart of oil every 120 miles or so. I couldnt figure the problem out so it got sold. (
  2. ADAMZAN... After about 4 days with the Xterra I would agree for the most part. Pathfinder Pros... 4-wheel disk brakes, Independent rear suspension, longer wheel base, Rear seats hinged instead of removable, Opening rear glass, dash clock, More intuitive(smother) transmission Xterra Pros - Supercharger, Power Windows, Sunroof, roof rack, factory alarm, Tow package The Xterra is a bit more "floaty" feeling and feels a bit more truck like than the Pathfinder and its body, panels & Bumpers are more loosely constructed. The Pathfinder was obviously build during a time when they wanted to ADD functionality for the owner and the Xterra was made during a time when they were trying to REMOVE those same features in order to reduce price and increase sales. Of the two, the Pathfinder does appear to be the more special of the two. The thing here is that I have ended up with what is probably one of the cleanest '02 SC Xterras in the country. This thing is cherry as hell, 10 years newer with 130,000 miles less than my rusted out Pathfinder. I currently have three cars insured and one is a 1990 RX7 Convertible with a newly rebuilt rotary engine so that ones not going anywhere but I will probably need to sell one of the trucks and I will probably end up keeping the one that I can keep in excellent condition with low milage for the next 10 years which will be the Xterra. I definitely prefer the NPORA forum.
  3. FINAL THOUGHTS... Finally, another successful thread. My problem was, in fact, one of the injectors. The injectors were too expensive to purchase new and 5 of my 6 injectors failed the "inductance Test" so they could not been cleaned/fixed and re-installed. So, I found a junk yard on ebay that were pulling, cleaning & selling injectors sets and with a bit of discounting got the entire set for around $150. The Pathfinder is now running better than ever and the irony is that I purchased an Xterra, thinking that I would not find the problem on the Pathfinder. Ive gone from NO truck to TWO and I have not only enjoyed researching the Xterra but have come to appreciate my Pathfinder even more. Is it just me or on Youtube does it seem difficult to find a 1st gen Pathfinder getting stuck in the mud, yet in almost every Xterra video someone is getting stuck. Is the Pathfinder that superior or are the people driving the Xterras that inferior. haha Heres a good one...
  4. I havnt seen the kits that slide on so I will check that out. I checked with the dealership and the timing belt was replaced at exactly 105,000 on the Xterra so that part is looking good. I should have it in my possession by Friday so I will finally get to compare the two.
  5. The rust was so bad when I bought it that there was nothing to weld onto as you got closer to the bumper so now, the last 12 inches of the frame as it meets the bumpers is literally swiss cheese. Ill see if I can get a pic. Its pretty amazing actually. 80% or more of that area is rusted away.
  6. Ive spent months looking for a clean 1st gen(2 door, 4X4, automatic) Pathfinder and they have gotten hard to find. A dealership up in North GA. has a cherry one but they wont budge off $5900(haha). The last one I bought was in great condition but had an internal problem and was consuming 1 quart of oil every 100 miles so it had to go. I just bought an entire set of injectors and owe the dealership $500 but I have almost 250,000 miles on my '92 and the dreaded frame rot to deal with. I have box welded the frame but towing is NOT an option so took the plunge and purchase this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Nissan-Xterra-/252538669537?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=fFKLYCArNyXyg%252B1KkAjhz4xHh8w%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Any opinions at $4500 + about $500 to get it to Atlanta.
  7. The Injector guy called and said that 5 of the 6 injectors had failed the "inductance" test and the injectors were unreliable and should be replaced. That each metering would produce totally different results and therefor a cleaning would not suffice.
  8. OK, Like most of you, I now believe that it is an injector... I was going to ohm the injectors but attempted to remove #1 injector first just to take a look. I couldn't get that sucker out of there and thought that I would break something trying, so... I contacted a new Nissan Dealership that was just built a few miles away. They said they normally charged $120 for a diagnosis but would do mine for $85. They called back a few days later reporting that #3 injector appeared to be bad but they had to remove the UIM to do the diagnosis. He said the Injector would be $170 and the job would be 5 hours X $120 an hour. OUCH!! I asked if he would allow for me to bring in my own parts and/or send the injectors out to be cleaned to which he was agreeable. We also agreed that they could do all 6 injectors in 5 hours and they agreed to lower their hourly rate to $100. They handed me over the entire fuel rail so that I could handle the injector cleaning(www.injectorrx.com) which is also a bonus because I can replace the FPR at the same time for no additional labor. So, $500 total plus the Injector cleaning. I would normally be repulsed by spending that kind of money on such a job but it should be back on the road soon... HERE IS THE BIG CATCH... I have been searching for another vehicle as I had almost given up hope and yesterday I pulled the trigger on a very clean 2003 Xterra SE SC. So, the Pathfinder may possibly get sold once the Xterra arrives. I HOPE I LIKE IT!!! ))
  9. Update... There is no fuel in the FPR line and the truck runs even MORE noticeably worse when the line is removed so I dont think that its the FPR. The fuel pressure checks out just fine with a fuel pressure gauge and the fuel pump can be heard at work when turning the key to the "on" position and it cranks up fine so I dont think its the fuel pump. Injectors would seem to be the next thing to look at and my symptoms are very similar to those who have discovered a bad/clogged injector. Poor acceleration, loss of power under load. shaking/shuddering around 2000-2500 rpm. gutless. I will ohm the injectors and check prices... Any opinions regarding injectors and has anyone done the upper intake modification that allows for easier injector replacement Good Deal?... https://www.autopartskart.com/nissan-pathfinder-1995/fuel-injector.html?partno=g584218107&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=nissan&prodid=67644719956224g584218107&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgJq-BRCFqcLW8_DU9agBEiQAz8Koh38RCld2LSyUEdilQS8U287ccmJ91zMjKLCD8W-lzjgaArDR8P8HAQ
  10. ADAMZAN: I will recheck the little vacuum line on the back of the manifold near #6 but, as I just did the plugs, and am very aware of that little hose, Im pretty sure its good. BYOB: I did remove and clean the EGR valve and bypass and although it was TOTALLY clogged with carbon , it made no difference. Do these older Pathfinders have a fuel pressure test valve? I dont seem to find one.
  11. OK, back to the truck!... the O2 sensor test seems to show no issues. When I kink the fuel return line at the passenger side valve cover the idle increases and appears to smooth out. Does this suggest a FUEL PUMP issue?
  12. Thank you and yes... The only code that I am getting is 55 which is "NO MALFUNCTION"... I will get busy on checking the sensors and I will warm it up and check the difference between cold and warmed up.
  13. Hello and Thanks for your help so far. After inspection of the timing belt, although it looked rather old, it appeared to be lined up correctly yet I went ahead and serviced the timing belt & water pump. It certainly needed to be done but as I suspected the truck is still running poorly. Although I am now able to set timing from the #1 cylinder as I corrected the previous owners pulley install error. I do not seem to be able to get the timing mark any further than the 3rd line from the right which is the same as before the timing belt install as I recall. I pulled the engine codes and got a "55" which is "NO MALFUNCTION, of course. With a long screwdriver to ear, I believe that all of the fuel injectors are "clicking" although one may be slower than the others. I may swap out the distributor as I have a lifetime warranty on one that I installed several years ago. Any further assistance would be appreciated as I am at a loss and am missing my truck! )
  14. I noticed not long after I bought it many years ago that i had to get underneath the truck to see the timing marks with a timing gun. I was baffled for a while until I noticed that everything seemed to line up fine when testing off of #6. I always forget about it until something like this comes up. The truck has always run fine so I just figured I would correct it on the next belt replacement which I hope has not yet arrived.
  15. I HAVE adjusted the timing while addressing the problem and as I recall the person to install the last timing belt installed the pulley exactly opposite so timing must be taken of of cylinder #6. Ill see if it can be adjusted to the proper setting with a light this afternoon. The timing mark needs to be at the 3rd or 4th mark to the left, correct? The problem seemed to have come on overnight as opposed to during a drive. Although I have much experience with the tps in my RX7, I dont know much about this one Also, is there an easy check for a bad coil?
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