JohnMasters

NICE!! I have been on the lookout for another truck for a while and purchased another very clean 92 SE model last year for $1000. It would have been a great deal if the owner had revealed that it was using(not burning) a quart of oil every 120 miles or so. I couldnt figure the problem out so it got sold. (

ADAMZAN... After about 4 days with the Xterra I would agree for the most part. Pathfinder Pros... 4-wheel disk brakes, Independent rear suspension, longer wheel base, Rear seats hinged instead of removable, Opening rear glass, dash clock, More intuitive(smother) transmission Xterra Pros - Supercharger, Power Windows, Sunroof, roof rack, factory alarm, Tow package The Xterra is a bit more "floaty" feeling and feels a bit more truck like than the Pathfinder and its body, panels & Bumpers are more loosely constructed. The Pathfinder was obviously build during a time when they wanted to ADD functionality for the owner and the Xterra was made during a time when they were trying to REMOVE those same features in order to reduce price and increase sales. Of the two, the Pathfinder does appear to be the more special of the two. The thing here is that I have ended up with what is probably one of the cleanest '02 SC Xterras in the country. This thing is cherry as hell, 10 years newer with 130,000 miles less than my rusted out Pathfinder. I currently have three cars insured and one is a 1990 RX7 Convertible with a newly rebuilt rotary engine so that ones not going anywhere but I will probably need to sell one of the trucks and I will probably end up keeping the one that I can keep in excellent condition with low milage for the next 10 years which will be the Xterra. I definitely prefer the NPORA forum.

FINAL THOUGHTS... Finally, another successful thread. My problem was, in fact, one of the injectors. The injectors were too expensive to purchase new and 5 of my 6 injectors failed the "inductance Test" so they could not been cleaned/fixed and re-installed. So, I found a junk yard on ebay that were pulling, cleaning & selling injectors sets and with a bit of discounting got the entire set for around $150. The Pathfinder is now running better than ever and the irony is that I purchased an Xterra, thinking that I would not find the problem on the Pathfinder. Ive gone from NO truck to TWO and I have not only enjoyed researching the Xterra but have come to appreciate my Pathfinder even more. Is it just me or on Youtube does it seem difficult to find a 1st gen Pathfinder getting stuck in the mud, yet in almost every Xterra video someone is getting stuck. Is the Pathfinder that superior or are the people driving the Xterras that inferior. haha Heres a good one...

I havnt seen the kits that slide on so I will check that out. I checked with the dealership and the timing belt was replaced at exactly 105,000 on the Xterra so that part is looking good. I should have it in my possession by Friday so I will finally get to compare the two.

The rust was so bad when I bought it that there was nothing to weld onto as you got closer to the bumper so now, the last 12 inches of the frame as it meets the bumpers is literally swiss cheese. Ill see if I can get a pic. Its pretty amazing actually. 80% or more of that area is rusted away.

Ive spent months looking for a clean 1st gen(2 door, 4X4, automatic) Pathfinder and they have gotten hard to find. A dealership up in North GA. has a cherry one but they wont budge off $5900(haha). The last one I bought was in great condition but had an internal problem and was consuming 1 quart of oil every 100 miles so it had to go. I just bought an entire set of injectors and owe the dealership $500 but I have almost 250,000 miles on my '92 and the dreaded frame rot to deal with. I have box welded the frame but towing is NOT an option so took the plunge and purchase this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Nissan-Xterra-/252538669537?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=fFKLYCArNyXyg%252B1KkAjhz4xHh8w%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Any opinions at $4500 + about $500 to get it to Atlanta.

The Injector guy called and said that 5 of the 6 injectors had failed the "inductance" test and the injectors were unreliable and should be replaced. That each metering would produce totally different results and therefor a cleaning would not suffice.

OK, Like most of you, I now believe that it is an injector... I was going to ohm the injectors but attempted to remove #1 injector first just to take a look. I couldn't get that sucker out of there and thought that I would break something trying, so... I contacted a new Nissan Dealership that was just built a few miles away. They said they normally charged $120 for a diagnosis but would do mine for $85. They called back a few days later reporting that #3 injector appeared to be bad but they had to remove the UIM to do the diagnosis. He said the Injector would be $170 and the job would be 5 hours X $120 an hour. OUCH!! I asked if he would allow for me to bring in my own parts and/or send the injectors out to be cleaned to which he was agreeable. We also agreed that they could do all 6 injectors in 5 hours and they agreed to lower their hourly rate to $100. They handed me over the entire fuel rail so that I could handle the injector cleaning(www.injectorrx.com) which is also a bonus because I can replace the FPR at the same time for no additional labor. So, $500 total plus the Injector cleaning. I would normally be repulsed by spending that kind of money on such a job but it should be back on the road soon... HERE IS THE BIG CATCH... I have been searching for another vehicle as I had almost given up hope and yesterday I pulled the trigger on a very clean 2003 Xterra SE SC. So, the Pathfinder may possibly get sold once the Xterra arrives. I HOPE I LIKE IT!!! ))

Update... There is no fuel in the FPR line and the truck runs even MORE noticeably worse when the line is removed so I dont think that its the FPR. The fuel pressure checks out just fine with a fuel pressure gauge and the fuel pump can be heard at work when turning the key to the "on" position and it cranks up fine so I dont think its the fuel pump. Injectors would seem to be the next thing to look at and my symptoms are very similar to those who have discovered a bad/clogged injector. Poor acceleration, loss of power under load. shaking/shuddering around 2000-2500 rpm. gutless. I will ohm the injectors and check prices... Any opinions regarding injectors and has anyone done the upper intake modification that allows for easier injector replacement Good Deal?... https://www.autopartskart.com/nissan-pathfinder-1995/fuel-injector.html?partno=g584218107&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=nissan&prodid=67644719956224g584218107&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgJq-BRCFqcLW8_DU9agBEiQAz8Koh38RCld2LSyUEdilQS8U287ccmJ91zMjKLCD8W-lzjgaArDR8P8HAQ

ADAMZAN: I will recheck the little vacuum line on the back of the manifold near #6 but, as I just did the plugs, and am very aware of that little hose, Im pretty sure its good. BYOB: I did remove and clean the EGR valve and bypass and although it was TOTALLY clogged with carbon , it made no difference. Do these older Pathfinders have a fuel pressure test valve? I dont seem to find one.

OK, back to the truck!... the O2 sensor test seems to show no issues. When I kink the fuel return line at the passenger side valve cover the idle increases and appears to smooth out. Does this suggest a FUEL PUMP issue?

Thank you and yes... The only code that I am getting is 55 which is "NO MALFUNCTION"... I will get busy on checking the sensors and I will warm it up and check the difference between cold and warmed up.

Hello and Thanks for your help so far. After inspection of the timing belt, although it looked rather old, it appeared to be lined up correctly yet I went ahead and serviced the timing belt & water pump. It certainly needed to be done but as I suspected the truck is still running poorly. Although I am now able to set timing from the #1 cylinder as I corrected the previous owners pulley install error. I do not seem to be able to get the timing mark any further than the 3rd line from the right which is the same as before the timing belt install as I recall. I pulled the engine codes and got a "55" which is "NO MALFUNCTION, of course. With a long screwdriver to ear, I believe that all of the fuel injectors are "clicking" although one may be slower than the others. I may swap out the distributor as I have a lifetime warranty on one that I installed several years ago. Any further assistance would be appreciated as I am at a loss and am missing my truck! )

I noticed not long after I bought it many years ago that i had to get underneath the truck to see the timing marks with a timing gun. I was baffled for a while until I noticed that everything seemed to line up fine when testing off of #6. I always forget about it until something like this comes up. The truck has always run fine so I just figured I would correct it on the next belt replacement which I hope has not yet arrived.

I HAVE adjusted the timing while addressing the problem and as I recall the person to install the last timing belt installed the pulley exactly opposite so timing must be taken of of cylinder #6. Ill see if it can be adjusted to the proper setting with a light this afternoon. The timing mark needs to be at the 3rd or 4th mark to the left, correct? The problem seemed to have come on overnight as opposed to during a drive. Although I have much experience with the tps in my RX7, I dont know much about this one Also, is there an easy check for a bad coil?

Distributor was new. Is the best/only method to determine if the belt has slipped to remove the front cover? Not sure if it matters but there is NO smoke at all from exhaust.

Greetings NPORA, I am having some trouble and could use some help. Thanks in advance... I have a 1992 XE automatic with 240,000+ miles that has been running fine and has suddenly started running very rough. -very little power under load -must rev high to get moving which engages orange transmission light -rough idle but stays running -spuddering/shuddering at 2500rpm -gutless -starts ok NEW plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, fuel filter, air filter with NO improvement EGR system was totally clogged but NO improvement after removing blockage. Found a rusted off ground connection near the battery. Fixed that with NO improvement. Cleaned MAF and have additional MAF ground harness installed with NO improvement It runs with positive to battery disconnected so alternator is ok. Timing belt is probably overdue for a change but not by much. Distributor was replaced about 40,000 miles ago NO check engine light but have NOT checked for codes. I have engaged in some spirited driving lately. Meaning that I have "Floored it" several times over the last few weeks. For the last few months I have noticed a slight bog/hesitation at take-off Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Update... The truck is running fine but still using oil at a steady rate. I hate to do it but I have several projects that need my attention at this time so I will be selling this Pathfinder. I decided to swap the rear drum brakes/axels from my current 92 XE with the rear disks from this 90 SE. It took most of the day but everything works great so purchasing this truck a few months ago wasnt a total waste of time. Thank you for your input!!!

I talked to the mechanic a bit more about the persisting oil consumption issue and he is convinced that it IS NOT a Valve Stem Seal and that although the compression numbers are good, that one or more of the oil control rings are stuck or gummed up. SO... Last night I did an internal engine steam cleaning by running the truck at 2500 rpm and introducing a few gallons of water into the upper intake via the brake booster line. Then, ran a half a bottle of seafoam through the intake as well. BE CAREFUL NOT TO ADD TOO MUCH WATER WHEN DOING THIS!! I also replaced a quart of 10w/30 with a quart of Marvels Mystery Oil which is 5 weight, making the oil even thinner so that it may do some cleaning as it passes the rings. I drove the truck for 15 or 20 miles like Tony Stewart and the oil level has remained unchanged so I will watch it for a few days and report back.

I was just doing some reading and saw this statement... "A flickering oil light or a slight tapping sound in the rocker arm area on the topside of the motor is a good indication that not enough oil under pressure is reaching the top end of the engine." There is, in fact, a slight tapping around the topside of the engine that does not exist on my '92 Pathfinder. This tapping seems to get fainter as the engine warms up.

I also have a 1992 XE with 240,000 and it uses very little oil so I know what you mean. I have checked and rechecked the PCV lines and hoses and they seem fine. There does not appear to be pressure in the crankcase as I feel no pressure coming from the oil cap hole or dipstick hole while the vehicle is running. I guess there would be a procedure for checking the PCV system with a mityvac(which I have) so I will look into that. There is some wet oil towards the back of the engine but it doesnt appear to be the main seal. The Oil pressure sensor was definitely leaking a little bit so I assumed that was where that particular wet spot had come from and replaced the sensor. A blockage in the vent would seem possible as apparently the previous owner was not regular at changing the oil and the truck just sat around. My knowledge of exactly how the oiling system works and what each part such as the vent play IS NOT vast so I will do some homework on the vent possibly being clogged and gain some understanding. I didnt check the compression on 6 because when I removed the tester from cylinder 5 the spark plug adapter stayed screwed into the engine and it took me like 10 minutes to get it out. If that were to happen on 6, Ill bet it would take more than 10 minutes. I would much rather have a compression tester that did not utilize an adapter. . Obviously I didnt have it screwed together tight enough.

Thanks for your reply... Compression is at 160psi or better on 5 out of 6 cylinders. I havnt checked #6 yet. The smoke would appear whitish/blueish. I dont suspect coolant as their is no coolant loss, the coolant stays very clean and green, the truck runs cool and no symptoms have pointed in that direction. Although I could simply do a block test to rule that out. Which I will do.

Good morning fellow enthusiasts... I feel that I have exhausted all efforts via research and repair and could use some guidance… Heavy oil Consumption: 1 quart per 50 miles of spirited driving 1990 Pathfinder 4X4 SE VG30 5-speed, 135,000 miles I purchase this vehicle off the side of the road in an area of town that I frequent. The lady I purchased it from was very nice, mid 50s, with several cars in the yard and did not appear to drive the pathfinder very much. She purchased it in 1998 and had it registered in Alabama so it WAS NOT subject to annual emissions inspections. I called and spoke with her mechanic who had worked on the Pathfinder in the past and who I happened to know as he is a trusted mechanic in the area whom I had previous positive dealings. He said the truck was not well maintained and that she DID NOT change her oil regularly but that the engine was in good shape and it just needed a better home. The truck was filthy as if it just sat in the driveway and collected dirt for several years. The odometer reads 135,000 miles which I fully believe as this truck is in great, low mileage condition. After cleaning the truck and getting it ready to be my daily driver I noticed that it was consuming a large amount of oil but I could not tell whether it was leaking or burning as it didn’t smoke like a freight train as much as the large consumption would have suggested and there was NO oil leaking on the ground while parked. There was some wet oil covering the underneath of the starter so I went about making a few repairs… Replaced Plugs, Plug wires, Dist Cap and rotor button Replaced the valve cover gaskets(they were leaking) Installed a new Oil Pressure Switch(it was leaking) Installed a new PCV valve(It was very gummed up) Deleted the CAT(It appeared to be almost totally clogged) Checked Compression(160psi+ on 5 cylinders, I haven’t done the hard one yet) For the first several hundred miles I was using castrol high mileage 20/50 with one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer to slow the consumption but consumption stayed pretty consistent with very little white smoke. At first the oil seemed to stay contaminated and blackish in color but after 2 oil changes in a few hundred miles it seems to be staying clean and clear now. After the repairs I switched to Valvoline MaxLife 10/30 with NO stabilizer to see what would happen when the oil was thinner. the truck now smokes(WHITE) a bit more and it is easier to get it to pour white smoke out while sitting in neutral and revving the throttle up and down. It appears to go through less oil when I baby the truck and keep the RPMs down. I have looked at the possibility of valve stem seals being the problem but the VG30, based on research, doesnt seem to be plagued with that issue and I would think that the compression numbers would lead away from a ring related issue... or would it? After the repairs, this truck runs great and has some good power too but is still eating oil so I am hopeful that I can discover the problem and use this as my daily driver. However I have been at it for two months and am running out of ideas but I hate to take it to the shop. Any suggestions would be very appreciated!!! John Masters

WOW!!! Is it possible for the bigger "lego" wheels and tires to make such a drastic difference in power and handling. i.e. LESS AND WORSE! The truck looks much better but it feels quit sluggish compared to driving on the original steel wheels.

No offense taken... I feel crazy!!! I guess that I just need to get the new one set up like my old one so I will like it... The old truck is black with a hardbody hood, darkly tinted windows and sits on some nice Lego wheels with big beefy tires with no sunroof, roofrack, siderails or tire carrier so the truck looks "clean and bad ass". The new truck is white, no tinted windows sitting on smaller steel wheels and tires and the truck looks "cute" I seriously prefer the "bad ass" look. I may plastidip the white truck black and install the Lego wheels and see what I think.