sewebster

Yeah, I guess I am aware that these sorts of things are the more practical implementation of what I'm talking about. But somehow neither is super appealing to me. I don't think that just putting in a switch to fully control the lockup of a automatic transmission is really the same thing... you can't shift with the converter locked for instance, right? Plus, there is no point in having an automatic transmission with all of it's decision making fluid stuff and planetary gears etc if you never want it to shift for you. The semi-automatic/dual clutch systems are perhaps better... I'm not sure how they deal with slippage/not stalling though.

Seems to me that the ideal thing would be to have a manual transmission (with gear shifter, clutch etc.) but then also have a torque converter in the mix. You could keep the torque converter fully locked all the time until you went off road, where you would throw a switch to unlock it, and then you wouldn't need to use the clutch except to shift. Basically the torque converter would be a stall preventer and allow you to "slip the clutch" without actually slipping the clutch, if you know what I mean. Of course this is a bit too ridiculous to be practical, but it seems like it would be good

If you get a white spare you can rotate it through with the rest of your tires (as long as it's the same size) and your tires will last 1.25 times as long

I was just saying that I have an SE that appears to have the 29" speedo gear. But if you know for sure that your truck came with 31" from the factory then it should be right. But it could just be off for no reason too... I don't really think these things are super accurate. At least my other car is off by more than my truck and it's pure stock... it is just wrong for no reason...

I have 31" tires on my SE and my odometer is still off by 7%, which just happens to be the ratio of 31/29, where 29 was the other stock tire size. Anyway, you can check using the mileposts or by using a GPS on the odo or speedo.

Coolant might flow the wrong way.

Interesting... my oil pressure gauge is currently flopping about on my dash board...

So, as Fleurys said, it seems that arb provides the carrier, and thus you can use an arb locker in a oem LSD diff. Seems this might be a fairly big revelation around here... or maybe people just prefer other types of lockers... Perhaps modern electronic traction control makes all this obsolete though (brake the spinning wheel only).

Hmm. They called it thermoplastic rubber (the blue stuff). I guess you are right, that could just be their code word for polyurethane. There do exist thermoplastic polyurethanes, and I guess "rubber" can refer to "synthetic rubber" which can be pretty much anything. Perhaps I will try to slop some grease on top, better than nothing at this point. At least I know how to do it properly for next time.

Actually what I used from moog was apparently not polyurethane, so ignore this comment.

Hmm, yep, from what I can see, you are right! So it seems that if you go with arb, it does not matter which oem diff you have and people just must be confused due to how some other lockers work. Thanks.

Also known as stabilizer bars I believe...

I seem to get about 15 MPG, but all my driving is in the mountains it seems, or in the city.

I thought you had to take the main bolt off too. I guess there's one way to find out for sure...

Hehe, perhaps, but I'd like to know that I can hammer on my brakes if I need to! With the truck off (no power brakes) I doubt you're going to do much damage unless it was already almost busted, in which case maybe it'd be good to find out in the garage? But I'm only talking about there being a small amount of air in the lines. Anyway, no warranty comes with my advice!

You mean those little drop down tow points?

Ok, so it seems that towing off the brush guard is a no-go, and that towing off either the hooks or those drop down points would work. I guess my main concern is with the tow strap rubbing on something. It seems like with the hooks it might help a bit, because they will be further forward. Anyway, maybe I'll goof around with them and see what I think, perhaps search after the ultra-rare "opposite hook" As for the brush guard being a bad idea... part of why I have it on there is actually for brush. I drive on a bunch of logging roads that are totally overgrown with alder. If you aren't familiar with this phenomenon it's a fast growing little tree that you can push out of the way easily (at least until it gets too big). Seems like having something to keep this stuff off the front of the truck isn't the dumbest idea. My brush guard is mounted in 4 places. The two bottom points where the tow hook attach which seem fairly strong, and two upper points behind the grille. I guess the upper points aren't really actually very secure... so is that the concern when getting in a crash, that the brush guard will be pushed back up top and damage stuff? Whereas without it maybe the bumper would take the damage? I can see an aftermarket bumper being better, but I don't know how much the OEM bumper is going to do...

Hmm, I didn't know you had to lubricate poly... none of the moog stuff I have told me to. Guess they need better instructions!

I guess another possibility is that there is a leak between your transfer case and transmission and the transmission fluid level was higher and leaked into the t-case... Maybe you don't want to think about that though, sorry!

Perhaps either you or they are/were on a slope to one side? Probably not going to damage it and you should be fine by filling it just up till the port, but you should be on a level surface...

You might want to read this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31068 Might not be exactly the same but...

I used M10 on everything I think, might be less likely the break if it fits...

I picked up two of the OEM tow hooks at the pick-a-part since i figured they would be better than nothing. I went to put them on, and found that my OEM brush guard is mounted where they usually attach. Does this mean I have to choose one or the other? Or can I just put the tow hooks on the bottom. I guess I might need longer bolts to go through everything... Here are two pics: The tow hook bolts where the two indicated bolts are and sits somewhat like drawn in the other picture. Or should I just put some d-rings in these other holes (arrow drawn)? The tow hooks have this weird (intentional) slight bend in them so that I could only mount them both facing to the passenger side or else they'd hit the brush guard. That might look weird I guess. Or maybe I should just tow on those big holes in the brush guard, but perhaps it isn't designed for that.

Yeah, you might have to cut them off, or use a torch and then a big ratchet or breaker bar to just snap them off.

Wouldn't using the brakes like this work on an open diff too?