sewebster

I have a set of around 5 from Cleveland Twist Drill that hasn't been terrible. They are the "spiral" type, not the "square" type. Any screw extractor is basically going to be a consumable item though. My set probably cost around $20 or $30? Don't really remember.

Presumably that "dirt" that you can't scrub off is some kind of oxide layer. As long as THAT is "clean" and prepped paint will likely stick. What it looks like doesn't matter before you paint, just that the paint stays on. Might be easier to just paint them and hope for the best... if it doesn't work then deal with it and paint them again... shrug?

You can get injectors cleaned and tested probably for around $20 each. Then you'll know they are good (full flow rate characteristics etc.) Look for a fuel injection place. If its easy on a TBI you could drop a new/rebuilt one in though. Bit of an annoyance on the VG30E so I think testing is worth it for that engine. I did buy a new one for $200 or so from the dealer last year... I was in a rush.

He said the ECU was out of an 89 though...

Probably a phosphoric/sulfuric acid mix will work, but perhaps a little nasty to deal with... likely a good idea to remove the tires first I'm assuming there's a less drastic option.

... and throw a locker in the front diff

Codes are probably right. I don't even think the TPS is involved in starting the truck? Sounds like you have a bunch of different stuff going on... really hard to diagnose unfortunately... if you can't start the truck I'd probably work on that first... back to basics, spark, fuel, air

Are you sure you have the right code table for an 87? Someone just posted the other day that they were different for the very early years... If it is a MAF code again, then you either have a problem with your maf sensor (again) or the wiring between it and the ECU...

I hate that 180 degree problem. Mine backfired in the exhaust and blew up a brand new muffler.

Well, check the codes... maybe your o2 sensor is busted, though it does sound pretty bad.

Hmm, interesting. You'd think the shop would have told him to replace the bushings though!

Sounds scary. I guess I'm not an expert, but that shop sounds crazy. A bit of oil should not be able to make your steering wander around...

Why are carbs not good off road?

Did you check the voltages at the ECU connector? Could be a bad wire if you just checked at the TPS. Could also be an intermittent problem. Or a bad ECU...

Installed the hood cowl covers with mesh underneath. Repainted my rear defroster, again.

Sounds like you need a laptop strapped to your dash recording all this stuff for later analysis Wow, diff temps, that sounds pretty wild! My cluster has a voltmeter already. I kinda thought about having a proper engine coolant temp gauge since the cluster one seems fairly lame.

I have an oil pressure gauge that is about 2" across. I assume that this will be the standard size and will work? What other aftermarket gauges are you guys using that you want these 3 gauge pods? I'm still on the fence on this. Might be a little pricy for something that I'll only use part of and might obstruct the view a bit?

About $150 on rockauto...

Manual hubs are better in all ways except that you have to get out to engage and disengage them You can "test" the auto hubs in two ways. One is to jack up the front of the vehicle (in 2wd) and then turn the front driveshaft by hand (it will spin since you are in 2wd). The auto hubs should engage after a rotation or two (at least one of them since you have an open diff presumably). I'm not sure, but it's possible that they might lock under no load like this and slip in reality. You can also dismantle the auto hubs and inspect them (this is pretty easy). You might easily notice if there are broken bits inside, or you can check in the FSM for the wear limits etc. I don't think there's anything too special about removing the transmission. The t-bars aren't that big of a deal, though some people really don't like to touch them. The transmission is pretty big and with the t-case attached it's heavy and poorly balanced, so some reasonable jacking system is a good idea. You also have to remove the shifters of course. Instructions in the FSM.

This isn't really true though. What will happen is your rear wheels will spin for a revolution or so before the autohubs engage, then you will be in 4wd. Now, whether or not you will make up it the hill I don't know, but the hubs should engage.

How come it's much more difficult than just dropping it out and swapping over to replace the transmission?

Changed my ABS sensor.

Maybe your fuel pressure regulator is screwed up? But it doesn't really sound like it. FSM test is that the pressure should be 34 psi at idle, and 43 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. And the more vacuum, the lower the pressure. Probably if the pressure can't stay high when you are sucking a lot of fuel then the pump can't keep up. Or your filter is clogged

Very cool. Your engine compartment is dirty though So, does it make a difference that you essentially don't have a harmonic balancer anymore? I think I used the wrong intake gaskets... aftermarket ones were pretty thin... oh well.

wd21 EV conversion