sewebster

Might increase engine noise without the insulation?

If the problem is bad enough that you're worried for your safety you should really take it to a mechanic if you can't figure it out.

You can measure how much lift you have in the rear by checking the angle of the stabilizer bar... with no lift the "plane" of the stabilizer bar should be parallel to the ground. With lift the front ends of the bar rise up. So you can measure how much higher the connection to the stabilizer end link is than the bushings on the axle. That is the amount of suspension lift you have. I could have sworn this was in my (91) FSM, but I can't find it in the online 94 version.

Don't grease them before installation or they'll explode.

I have no experience crawling with a manual, but here's how I see it. With a manual there is a minimum speed you need to be going before you stall, even in 1st/4 lo, unless you slip the clutch. But the problem is that at this low speed you won't have much power, since the engine doesn't produce much power/torque at low rpm. So I guess you drive slowly into a rock and then you start to slow down even more because of the resistance of the rock and you hit the gas, but nothing happens because you don't have the power to climb the rock, then you either stall or let off the gas and hit the clutch. With an auto you have a torque converter, so you can slip that as much as you want basically. So you run into the rock, then just keep pushing down the throttle until your engine is spinning fast enough to give you the power to climb up it. I have a manual and like it, and there is more to offroading than the above, but in this scenario an auto seems better.

Just hit the reply button on the post you want to quote, then it is automatic. You can basically do it manually too, like below, but replace the { curly brackets with [ square brackets: {quote} text you want to quote {/quote}

As far as I can see, this conflicts with the information on our stickied page: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25662 There it basically says that 90+ is 28 spline... Shasdakota, regarding the CVs, I think the attachments to the diff are not the same for the different spline counts, so I'd be careful...

I mean force, not torque. The torque is determined by the engine and is applied to the wheels via the transmission, driveshaft, diff, and axles, and is independent of tire size. The engine torque is different than the wheel torque by a factor of the trans and diff gear ratio. Big tires are good because they get you high off the ground etc etc. Precise is right, if you want to run big tires, re-gearing is a good idea. Of course you can get the same force with bigger tires by just increasing engine torque, usually by running at higher RPM. But this means you are going faster, which might not be what you want.

I've been painting the copper paint on mine over the past few months. I use to have only a couple that work, now I'm up to about half. Unfortunately I'm still missing a bunch in the top part which is really the only useful part because of the large spare on the carrier. Not that it really matters too much since the back is often full of stuff, but at this point it's a battle I intend to win!!!

For camber/caster adjustment? Not sure, since the truck was lifted when I got it. Alignment was a PITA because shops couldn't figure it out, so I ended up messing with it myself until it drove straight. I should probably have it measured again.

Cool. I guess the terranos have different spline counts than the pathfinders? Because I'm pretty sure a 91 pathfinder is 28 spline (stock anyway).

Count the splines on your axles and the splines in the hubs... if they do not match, it won't work. I think you just need to get different hubs. They are available in all the different spline counts. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25662

Weld the diffs, 12" wheel spacers, slap the 40s on and you're good to go! (about the length of your driveway anyway)

The engine applies a torque to the wheel. The force that is then applied from the tire to the ground to propel you forward is that torque divided by the radius of the tire. Bigger tire, less force.

I haven't done it, but I think you will want/need to replace the entire third member. Remove driveshaft, slide axles out, remove and replace third member. Make sure you get the same gear ratio as your front diff...

I have a 1" lift and the stock bolts and it seems to work. I am basically at the limits specified in the FSM for shim thickness, which I assume means I am ok on thread engagement.

O2 sensor?

You sure your injectors aren't leaking or your fuel pressure isn't too high?

Mine is 31", so probably the same as your 31.5" and I just measured from a different place. I'll have to be careful with parkades with my ski rack on... must be getting pretty close. Thanks for the measurements!

Thanks. I'll measure mine tonight. I only have a 1" lift and am running 31s so I was just a little surprised. Maybe you just couldn't fit a 3+3+33 truck into a parkade around here.

My truck had no antenna so I got one from the pick-a-part (from another WD21). I just unscrewed the antenna itself and screwed it into my mount. So I guess this means it's not a power antenna or anything. Anyway, I just went into a parkade the other day and I noticed that my antenna was hitting on signs hanging from the roof. Yikes, not really a big deal, but is it supposed to be that long? Seems kinda odd. I suppose I should measure, but I'd say it's about a meter (3 feet) long. Any idea on whether the WD21 is just a long one, or whether I somehow got an aftermarket one from the junkyard? I guess I could just cut the end off....

Well, I did have to pay around $100, so I guess I got an expensive piece of paper at least!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25662

Sounds like you're on the right track!

What do you mean it isn't "rolling up"? You can't push the UCA up far enough to get the ball joint in place? If so... maybe push harder or use more lube??? The half shaft can't come out unless you remove the split ring on the end under the hub, but perhaps this is necessary to mess with the UCA. Anyway, if it came out, put it back in... no big deal. If the boot is cracked, that's because it is worn out, not because the half shaft moved a bit. Replacing the boot ASAP is a good idea if you want to save the shaft. Of course it doesn't even do anything if you aren't in 4wd and it will even work in 4wd until it wears out, so if you are in a rush you could leave it (though of course this would be a convenient time to deal with it since you have it all apart already...