sewebster

No, as tungsten pointed out, my suggestion for the dealer gaskets was dumb, because they will be too small.

He is trying to achieve red CV boots for some reason I think.

Heh, I suppose that is true

Looks like none of them meet the OEM spec for the outers? I don't understand the "Bar size" and "Joint side" dimensions, but it isn't clear to me that they will actually fit. Need to match the proper diameters at each end and have the proper lips and stuff. Maybe you could get some red RTV and coat them after you buy the usual ones?

Usually the flanges are rusted up and stuff and should be replaced. You usually don't reuse exhaust gaskets. You can buy them online wherever, they are pretty standard. Try rockauto. but personally I'd probably go to the dealer because their metal ones seem to work better to me. I hate dealing with stupid exhaust leaks at flanges... As for the heat shields, they are probably more trouble than they are worth at this point. The purpose is to try to not heat up the truck body.... extra heat causes rust and stuff. While you have the exhaust off would be a good time to check the integrity of the body around there and do whatever fixes are necessary.

I did mention the km/miles thing If you download the spreadsheet you can switch to miles by changing the units cell to 1.6. Might as well post up a "miles" pic:

I made up a spreadsheet to calculate speeds and rpms based on your gear ratios. You can adjust all the parameters to calculate what you want. Here is a pic of it: Not sure if anyone cares about this, it's pretty basic, but I found myself thinking about how changing gearing would affect things and decided to stop calculating it over and over. Here is the link to the spreadsheet. Happy for any comments etc. Note that it is in km by default, but you can just change the unit value to get miles. Set up now for the manual transmission (FS5R30A).

That's one way to recalibrate the speedo I guess...

I have 4.3 gears and my engine is running at like 3000 rpm to go 60 mph. Seems like going higher would be not necessarily a good idea. I think I'm going to put together my gears spreadsheet I've been meaning to make for a while. I guess I can post it up and people can play around with this stuff.

That tape roll holder looks like it has some potential...

CV boot shock bushing (but I don't know if you can get it separately) upper control arm bushing

I don't think that makes sense... it should be easy to calculate. The torque arm of the tire is just the radius of it, so it is proportional to the tire diameter. So you can just take your gear ratio, say 4.625 and multiply it by the ratio of tire sizes. 4.625 * 33 / 31 = 4.92. If you wanted it to drive the same with 33s as it would be 29s then you'd get 4.625 * 33 / 29 = 5.26, so you'd need 5.3ish gears. Of course if you had a 4.3 gear ratio to start with it changes everything too. edit I think I fixed the typo

There can be codes even if the light is not on.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31571

Couple general comments. If you're going to be switching out pipe to a larger size, I'd make changes to the entire system. If you leave a stock piece in the mix then it will be the constriction point, and most of the improvement from the rest of the changes will be lost. Also, the "red" pipe sections from the manifolds to the Y junction don't have to be as large as the rest of the system because they only carry half the amount of gas. So if you wanted a 2.5" system at the rear end then you only need 1.75" (cross sectional area scales with radius squared) diameter pipes up front.

Rear seat area. Before: Truck floor by sewebster, on Flickr After: Floor welded by sewebster, on Flickr

There are instructions in the FSM for reading the ABS codes. They are separate from the engine codes. I think you have to ground a pin on a wiring harness somewhere...

Well, I'm not entirely sure what to recommend. Probably the BEST thing to do is, at some point, to remove all the old paint and rust and then repaint or recoat. But to really get all the rust off I think you're going to need to sandblast. Probably just using a wire wheel will be "good enough." But all this is actually fairly hard to do under the truck, especially with no body lift. For me, I realized I wasn't going to be able to properly paint it right now, and that painting wasn't going to work as well in the cold anyway, so I figured I would apply something this winter as a preventative measure. The nearest "Krown" place is kinda far, so I just bought a can of the above stuff. It seems ok. Doesn't drip too much when applying, and basically if it doesn't come off right away, it doesn't drip off later. It essentially congeales on. Not sure how long it will last while driving around on wet roads. Unfortunately the can was $12 and didn't really last very long. I will probably try to buy another couple to coat most of the frame. Probably going to a shop where they have a lift and proper spray gun will actually be cheaper than buying a whole ton of cans.

Presumably the rotor in the torque converter has to be mounted on a bearing or something to keep it in the right place. Probably that bearing requires lubrication to not eat itself. Shrug.

A salt water solution is basically totally neutral. Salt water speeds up corrosion because it has a higher conductivity than regular water. But there is moisture in the air everywhere, so even "dry salt" will be bad.

Well, I would ask him, first of all. Doing it yourself, I doubt there is going to be a way to figure out exactly how much is in there, unless you drain it and measure. You could tilt the transmission over to the side and remove the fill plug. Then tilt it slowly back over. If it starts to come out before you get it level then you know that it has more than the 3.6L, but you don't know how much more.

Sprayed "Rust Cure Formula 3000" on the rear of the frame rails.

Personally I would just buy the right bolts from the dealer. $30 is a drop in the bucket for this sort of thing IMHO.

If it is riding really poorly you might want to check all your suspension components. Mine is way better now that I replaced everything (including the shocks).

I saw one in the middle of the road near my house the other day. Maybe they fall off? I know my front bump stops are almost entirely falling off...