sewebster

The FSM has instructions on how to set your t-bars to factory spec. So you might want to do that and then raise it a certain amount from there, if you care about getting an "accurate" lift anyway.

I'm not really a torsion bar suspension expert or anything, but my understanding is that people don't really use different torsion keys for WD21s. They just crank up the torsion bars, "re-indexing" the spline engagement at the front if necessary. Replacement aftermarket upper a-arms can be used, some of which properly modify the upper ball joint angle and allow for proper alignment. There are also some ball joint spacers/angle adjusters floating around, but these are less common. It is pretty common to go up to 3" suspension lift in the front this way. Search the forum and you should find tons of info on doing suspension lifts and body lifts. 2+2 is no problem. 3+3 is more common and might actually be easier because of that. With 3+3 you can fit 33" tires withou issues.

The engine shop machined my heads because they were damaged somehow by previous gaskets. I didn't really think much of it at the time, and don't know how much they took off. I guess since my engine seems to work, the pistons probably aren't hitting the valves too much

Vacuum leak would be my first guess as to the cause. Normal idle should be 750 rpm. But yes, of course it idles higher until warmed up.

My 91 interior is "gray" and I'm definitely interested in a colour matched pillar...

Do you feel your install is tough enough to support an actual carrier My1Path? You're just using it as a light guard, right? (not that that shouldn't be beefy...)

Hmm. I would have said that the Pathy is slower to warm up (by the temp gauge anyway) than any other vehicle I've owned. Maybe my thermostat is busted.

One time I couldn't remember for the life of me if I'd torqued the tensioner nut. Tore the whole thing apart again just to make sure. It was fine I think I set a new t-belt speed record though, since I did it two days in a row, heh.

I replaced my rocker shafts and arms recently and there is still some "play" in the arms... but I'm not convinced it's actually a problem. If you just mean they can shift side to side, then I think that is just a function of the design of the system. That said, I do seem to have some sort of tick I haven't really been able to figure out (I still think it might be exhaust related) so who knows... You can measure the shafts and rocker bores to see if they are within spec (see FSM).

Well, or your ignition timing just needs to be adjusted. The thing is, your lack of certainly of correct t-belt installation and the symptoms, seems to be telling me to suggest that you take the t-belt covers off and check it...

How will your pump ruin the new box? Unless it is full of junk (maybe it is), then presumably if it isn't pumping enough it will just be too hard to steer? Or does lack of pressure actually damage these boxes somehow?

Most of the thieves I saw in the u-pull yard near me seemed to be after my tools, rather than car parts!

Don't use an impact gun. Here's my procedure, which, I probably just made up, but I think is good (?): 1. With truck jacked up, put wheel on, then put on the nuts finger tight, while continually wobbling the wheel around until there is no more play and you can't tighten them any more. I don't use a pattern for this step. 2. Still with the truck jacked, use your ratchet to tighten the lugs more, until the wheel starts spinning. I don't use a pattern for this either usually. Wheel should actually be on there pretty solid at this point (of course not good enough to drive!) 3. Lower truck onto ground. Torque in a star pattern to the spec. I think I usually use 100 ft-lbs because it's easy to remember, and I believe it is in the specified range. 4. Re-torque after driving about 100 km (about 50 miles).

My impression is that rebuilding steering boxes is not particularly easy. I seem to recall someone posting the name of a company that rebuilds them with good service, but it didn't sound cheap. Might have been this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26009

Ok, so it sounds like your ignition timing is good, so I wouldn't mess with that. Especially if you didn't remove or adjust the distributor during the t-belt install. If you are confident that you put the t-belt on correctly (the way to do this is count the belt teeth between the marks on the cam sprockets, and between the cam sprocket mark and the crank sprocket mark) then try to figure out whether your knock sensor has gone bad coincidentally with this install, or maybe you knocked a connector? If you aren't confident you put the t-belt on right, then check it, because it can cause this sort of problem if it's on wrong. Unfortunately you need to remove the lower t-belt cover to check.

Hmm. I think the minimum underinsured motorist coverage you can have here is $250k. That's our socialist system for ya My fear isn't that any "mods" I have aren't covered, it's that the fact that my truck isn't a piece of junk like many other 1991 Pathfinders... I don't think I'd be happy with the average retail value if something happened to my truck since I've sunk a bunch of money and time into maintaining it. But I think I'm not going to lose much sleep over it.

Adjusting the ignition timing is done by rotating the distributor. You don't have to ever mess with the timing belt, unless you put it on wrong. How many notches are there in your crank pulley? If you have 7 then it's the middle one you want.

I probably wouldn't hit the pulley directly, you don't want to wreck bearings... it's the pump itself you want to move. You're sure you got the whole tensioner mechanism out of there, right?

It sounds like the hammer you are using is not large enough.

I think you just need to push harder on your power steering pump. Mine is also pretty stiff. Or loosen the bolt it pivots on that connects it to the block, as was mentioned earlier.

I will confirm that I am in! Though I think you might have listed me twice to get to your 20 figure...

Fuel pressure regulator.

Yup. If you do the calculation, you'll see that the answer is exactly what I said above. Multiplying by a constant (pi) makes no difference.

Circumference = pi*d

If you have 30" tires but your speedo is set for 31s, then your speedo will read 31/30=1.033 times too high. That's only 3%. So if it said you were going 90, you were really going 87.