denley

Tried lifting the control arm, didnt budge. Tried taking out the 3 bolts in the front and the big one starting spinning from the backside and I can't find any way to get a wrench on the back to hold the bolt. Not sure where to go from here. Would rather not cut it but it seems like the easiest option at this point.

Haven't tried the front much, it's rusted so bad I imagine I'll need a breaker bar to loosen them.

95 pathy 4x4. Trying to remove the torsion bars to start removing and swapping out transmissions. The passenger side came out of the adjuster anchor with ease after removing the c clips. The drivers side on the other hand will not. The anchor is rusted onto the spline of the torsion bar, I have used countless cans of wd-40, torched it, beat, banged, and used every tool known to man to pry on this thing. So then I tried dropping the torsion crossmember and pulling out the front, nope! Too much tension is on it when it's bent down away from the frame. I don't have access to anything more than a reciprocating saw but I'm not sure it will cut that tough of a metal. Any suggestions? I've been working on this for weeks and can't make any headway on it any ideas are appreciated.

Well I bypassed the cooler. No difference. So I guess I'll get busy dropping out the tranny and T case out of my parts truck. Thanks for all the helpful info!

Ok thanks guys. I'm gonna bypass the cooler first just to check for blockages. If that's not the case I'll look into removing and swapping out the trannys.

I will. Are the lines easily accessable? Also will I lose much fluid disconnecting the lines?

I can replace the cooler/radiator or trans cause I have a full parts truck with a bad motor. I just don't think I have the tools/ equipment to drop out a tranny and T case in my driveway.

Yes I get it serviced every 30k. Is there any way to bypass the cooler just to see if that's even the problem before I install a new cooler?

The fluids color, smell and level are all fine. I didn't realize the cooler was built in.

Ok I'll take the cooler off my parts truck to see. Is swapping the cooler a big project or can it be done with minimal removal?

Ok thanks I'll check. So you think the trans is fried? No check engine lights or anything indicated it overheated. Just out of nowhere. Would it be smart to just swap the cooler, trans and T case from my parts truck since I know they are fully functional or is this one worth looking into?

Stock cooler. How would you check the cooler for blockage?

95 pathy se v6 220k auto trans 4x4. I was driving along fine and all of a sudden my engine started reving like it was in neutral. No gears will engage, when I shift to reverse the engine strains like it normally would but will not move. Reverse and 1st are the only gears the engine bogs down for. I have a 94 pathy parts truck with a good trans, does this sound like a simple fix or should I look into swapping them. Trans fluid was clean and full.

Did this fix your problem? I'm in the same situation you are I think mine has jumped time as well but I didn't wanna tear down until I heard if this was resolved yet.

I looked into the mud sick thread, sounds kinda like my problem. I've replaced the battery, dist cap, plugs, oil and filter, and computer and that got it to start after it first happened but after a week fiddling with it I finally got a code to throw and it was knock sensor. So is it possible it did jump time and is causing it run rough and throw that code?