denley

Tried lifting the control arm, didnt budge. Tried taking out the 3 bolts in the front and the big one starting spinning from the backside and I can't find any way to get a wrench on the back to hold the bolt. Not sure where to go from here. Would rather not cut it but it seems like the easiest option at this point.

Haven't tried the front much, it's rusted so bad I imagine I'll need a breaker bar to loosen them.

95 pathy 4x4. Trying to remove the torsion bars to start removing and swapping out transmissions. The passenger side came out of the adjuster anchor with ease after removing the c clips. The drivers side on the other hand will not. The anchor is rusted onto the spline of the torsion bar, I have used countless cans of wd-40, torched it, beat, banged, and used every tool known to man to pry on this thing. So then I tried dropping the torsion crossmember and pulling out the front, nope! Too much tension is on it when it's bent down away from the frame. I don't have access to anything more than a reciprocating saw but I'm not sure it will cut that tough of a metal. Any suggestions? I've been working on this for weeks and can't make any headway on it any ideas are appreciated.

Well I bypassed the cooler. No difference. So I guess I'll get busy dropping out the tranny and T case out of my parts truck. Thanks for all the helpful info!

Ok thanks guys. I'm gonna bypass the cooler first just to check for blockages. If that's not the case I'll look into removing and swapping out the trannys.

I will. Are the lines easily accessable? Also will I lose much fluid disconnecting the lines?

I can replace the cooler/radiator or trans cause I have a full parts truck with a bad motor. I just don't think I have the tools/ equipment to drop out a tranny and T case in my driveway.

Yes I get it serviced every 30k. Is there any way to bypass the cooler just to see if that's even the problem before I install a new cooler?

The fluids color, smell and level are all fine. I didn't realize the cooler was built in.

Ok I'll take the cooler off my parts truck to see. Is swapping the cooler a big project or can it be done with minimal removal?

Ok thanks I'll check. So you think the trans is fried? No check engine lights or anything indicated it overheated. Just out of nowhere. Would it be smart to just swap the cooler, trans and T case from my parts truck since I know they are fully functional or is this one worth looking into?

Stock cooler. How would you check the cooler for blockage?

95 pathy se v6 220k auto trans 4x4. I was driving along fine and all of a sudden my engine started reving like it was in neutral. No gears will engage, when I shift to reverse the engine strains like it normally would but will not move. Reverse and 1st are the only gears the engine bogs down for. I have a 94 pathy parts truck with a good trans, does this sound like a simple fix or should I look into swapping them. Trans fluid was clean and full.

Did this fix your problem? I'm in the same situation you are I think mine has jumped time as well but I didn't wanna tear down until I heard if this was resolved yet.

I looked into the mud sick thread, sounds kinda like my problem. I've replaced the battery, dist cap, plugs, oil and filter, and computer and that got it to start after it first happened but after a week fiddling with it I finally got a code to throw and it was knock sensor. So is it possible it did jump time and is causing it run rough and throw that code?

My cousin got it stuck in a deep mud hole and tried too hard to get out and messed up something. It won't start unless you jump it off with a battery charger on start setting with a new battery so i assume the alt and starter are shot. Also when I do get it to run it misses a lot and has a terrible roaring noise inside the engine like it's straining to run at all. Figure it spun a bearing or something. I don't have the time and know how to tear apart the engine to find out, but I can do a engine swap. Figured it would come out about the same price wise considering most rebuild kits are around $400-$600.

Yea I briefly looked into the 3.3 swap when my engine first went, if I remember correctly there was a lot more work then I wanted to get into. I'm just having trouble finding a used engine that's not on ebay or online where I have to pay freight shipping. oh and the quest engine was pulled out of a wreck with 70k on it. Would it be worth considering a rebuild on my original engine? I don't know what a shop charges for that kind of job.

94 pathfinder le 4x4. I'm in need of a new engine but I can't find anything local except a 3.0l vg30e out of a 95 nissan quest. I know the motor is the same size but is their differences such as mounts or exhaust due to the van being fwd? If it's not interchangeable can someone recommend a website I might find a good priced used v6? I appreciate any help I just want my pathy back on the road.

I think I would rather just replace the knock sensor rather than try wiring up a resistor, I found a good deal on the sensor at a local parts store but where can I find the maxima harness? Also what year maxima does it need to be from?

I've seen a lot about relocating the knock sensor with a maxima harness, is this method reliable? Also do you think it's a waste of time for me to change it? It ran rough and terrible for a week before it gave me this code so I don't really want to spend the time and money doing the relocation if it's gonna do nothing but clear a code.

I changed the battery terminals and no change, still had to have the jump start, also where about is the knock sensor located on the vg30e?

Ok i changed the battery, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, and put seafoam in the gas to dry up any water that might be in there. The new battery wouldnt even turn the engine over.....i had to use the 300 amp jump start setting on a charger to even turn it over. After starting it the engine ran fair but i noticed that it hesitated from takeoffs and was sluggish just driving around my neighborhood, it never died or threw any codes but i still did a diagnostic on the ecu, it gave me code 34 Knock sensor. Why would it just now give me that code although i have ran it multiple times throughout the week? Also why would a new battery that tested 12.8 volts not turn over the engine without the jump start charger EVERY SINGLE TIME!?!?!? Any help? Im getting very frustrated at this thing lol.

Gotcha now I got it, got 55 no malfunction so that's a relief, seems the more I run it the better it's getting, I'm getting a new battery and fresh oil for it today, I'll take her down the highway and see how she does down the road.

well i got bored and decided to do a diagnostic check on the ecu. i read the thread here on npora on how to do it but it seems odd. i did exactly how the instructions said to and i got the follow codes in this order. 22-Fuel pump 33-heated oxygen sensor 44-ECCS normal operation 55- no malfunction 11- Crank angle sensor/ camshaft position sensor. just thought it was odd to get codes in perfect 10 number intervals almost in perfect order.

i tried both, when plugged it ran rough, with open leaking it ran great. I had gas in the oil due to the computer going out and flooding the engine trying to start it therefore gas from the cylinders running into the crankcase.